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Richard Pope

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    155
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  • Location
    Horsham, West Sussex
  • Cars Owned:
    Oct 1973 TR6 Texas import under total restoration plus on the road Dax Rush (se7en kit car) with 5l TVR V8.

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  1. Stupid me. I have all these as notes and did not bother to look them up before I started. Page 4 gives me another method that I must admit I was thinking of making up but now, it appears I'll have to. I just did not have the tool to hand. Thanks for pointing me in the rght direction.
  2. Actually not quite. Yes, the layshaft is out and teir gears are dropped to bottom so out of the way. You then tap the front bearing out, not the rear. You cannot get at the rear bearing to tap it out without first moving the main shaft forward to give a gap so that the bearing can come out to the rear. This is because the rearmost cog is right up against the gearbox housing so the bearing can only come out a few mm. 'tapping the mainshaft forwards creats the space between the rearmost cog and the casing.
  3. I'm dismantelling my gearbox (to fit O/Drive and new main shaft) but cannot get my (old) mainshaft out. Haynes manual helpfully says use soft mallet and tap main shaft into gearbox. This is to move it and cogs into gearbox so one can then push out the rear bearing rearwards - OK, understand that. One has to do this as rearmost cog will not allow bearing to come out as it is too big for bearing hole. I cannot get the mainshaft to budge through the rear bearing inner race. Tap has led to a whack and I don't want to get the sledge hammer out. I've tried penetrating oil and heat but it w
  4. I've been using forums and search facilities for years but I have to say I have never mastered this one's search facility. I've tried it a good number of times but failed each time. I'm also a career IT guy so well used to ensuring keywords are accurate. I'm always surprised when someonee answers my post with a link to a previous post presumably via a search. I've often wondered how they did it. So my plea is please can the search facility be improved to other forum standards (or teach me how to use it).
  5. Richard Pope

    Fuel filter

    Futher to my above post. On my other car it has a TVR V8 producing circa 300bhp. I bougt an inline filter from an eBay shop that is no longer around (darkmutton.com). It was not expensive (£18.99) albeit 6 or 7 years ago. It is a 10mm input and an 8mm output that goes into a Sytec pump. On the other side I simply use a standard Range Rover V8 paper type inline fuel filter canister. If I was you, I would simply buy a low cost pre-pump filter that looks right and use a inline post pump filter off a modern similar bhp car or even a high powered one. These are not expensive so go to your
  6. Richard Pope

    Fuel filter

    Because you a want low pressure filter to stop large bits getting to the pump and damaging it such as metal fragments or grit from the garage - speaking from experience and an expensive replacement pump bought. If you use a paper type filter before the pump you will probably not get enough feed to the pump. The pre-pump filter needs to be a bigger bore and corse filter to give the flow. After the pump there is lots of pressure to force fuel though a good paper filter to protect your engine. As a minimum you want the latter but best to have both especially with an expensive electric pump i
  7. Technically the flashing LED rear lights used by bicycle users are not legal because they are technically off for a period of time and at night a rear light must be on, not off. So who will be the first enforcement officer to attempt to charge such a user on the grounds of safety? Same issue and reason to have them in my book.
  8. No idea as I'm a long way off re-building my TR6. However PM me your e-mail address and I'll send you the instructions. I would guess, though, you simply disconnect at one of the UJ points in the column.
  9. No idea but it looks new as opposed to some refurbished pump so assume a reasonably common car.
  10. Why does the photo hosting site not now work? Just use the link to see and you might see some other photos there too.
  11. Did not answer your question. [url=https://postimages.org/][img]https://i.postimg.cc/xjXmHMzg/DSCN9464.jpg[/img][/url] You need to move the brake pedal to the left and I did that as much as I could. I matched the pedal positions and gap to the right of the right of the throttle pedal to that of my tintop and also the pedal height. You need to bend the brake pedal to bend to the left. In the end I added a short strengthing bar to brace this bend in case I had weakened the brake pedal and in effect is wht the RHD kit yu buy is like.
  12. I will add that to make the throttle bearing better, you could use a proper bearing (many use skate board bearings) but I simply used a bolt and washer(s) bearing. I used that on my other sports car and it has survived for a good number of years. I may still swap to the proper bearing as it is more robust and less of a 'bodge'.
  13. Ah, sorry. I re-arranged my photo hostingn site. However here are a new sequence of photos. All in all it was pretty easy and I simply ended up modifying the existing LHD parts but did make up a throttle bearing bracket to take a cable.
  14. Oops. Plus this photo does not show the baffle plate weld, sorry.
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