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Richard Pope

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  • Location
    Horsham, West Sussex
  • Cars Owned:
    Oct 1973 TR6 Texas import under total restoration plus on the road Dax Rush (se7en kit car) with 5l TVR V8.

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  1. I use this https://www.powertoolsdirect.com/clarke-csa10bb-10-tonne-hydraulic-bench-press-without-kit?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI153znu6N8wIVhu3tCh0XMAxbEAQYAyABEgJNCvD_BwE One of the most useful tools I have even though it is expensive and I use it for loads of things. Just take care on alignment.
  2. Yep, just ordered Dynax-S50. Good price on eBay at £53 for 5 litre. Thanks all for suggestions.
  3. I have just come to the same conclusion so circa £23 for gun and a 1l can seems OK to me. Thanks all for your help / suggestions.
  4. I've searched for this answer but not quite found what I wanted so posting my question ..... There are a good few spray guns for cavity wax application for circa £13 which screw into the wax canister and have a flexible hose to get inside the cavities of a TR chassis. 1.) Are they any good? 2.) Do they actually pick up the wax fron a, say, 5l canister? I think I would like a multi-direction spray jet on the end but cannot quite see that this is supplied but can you drill what is given to you in the kit? Purley for illustration https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/162774127424?ep
  5. OK, so last weekend I painted the chassis with POR15 Rust preventative paint and their POR15 Top Coat paint. I used (virtually) a quart of POR15 Rust Preventative paint as a two-coat base followed by 1.5 pints two-coat Top Coat. I used 1” cheap paint brushes and some of their thinners plus a large artist’s brush for a couple of difficult to reach places such as a lip inside the turret. Plus, a box of gloves. Originally my chassis had been needle gunned to remove surface rust and then I had used their Metal Prep phosphorous coating solution but there were still flakes of rust in the a
  6. 1.) They have just opened a small retailpark near me and each unit has a EV charge point. So handy when I nip in to either Toolstation ir Screwfix to collect a pre-ordered item. If I had an EV, how much charge would it get in the 1 or 2 minutes I am there? 2.) A friend retired recently retired as a construction industry project manager with his last buiding a new surburban school. The planners insisted no cars nor car park was allowed on site, however building regs dictated several EV charge pounts so thiese were duly installed on a wall no car could get to!
  7. I said that because I quotes from ‘How to Restore a TR5/250/6’ book page 67 says galvanising is not recommended … Two men carry chassis to galvanising, four men carry it back. Zinc builds up inside and outside members. Pre-galvanising acids get trapped in box sections, folds and welds and many a treated chassis will rot from within. The high temperature process can distort a chassis that was previously aligned. Welding galvanised metal is toxic should repairs be required.
  8. Oh. Everyone says ster clear of galvanising as it weighs a ton and traps rust inside the members.
  9. POR does not need a top coat unless it will get UV light so areguably you do not need a top coat. However I did use their chassis black top coat last time and will use thier Top Coat this time. POR15 needs two coats. POR15 takes between 2 and 6 hours to dry (but longer to cure). Recoat when only just tacky, not dry, so arguably you simply start again when you have got to the end of first coat. If you continue with Top Coat, simply the same again and start when POR15 base coat is just tacky again (Last time I think I did the top coat the next day and all was fine). Top Coat dries
  10. There is only one chassis paint and that is POR15. I have used this on my other car and will be on my TR6 next week end. It is quite simply 'tough'. Watch their demonstration video for proof and I can vouch that it is very tough paint indeed.
  11. I realise I left off of my list the GKN number - thanks. So the conclusion seems to be one can choose from any of these codes (I've added a couple from above list). TVC100010gx GUJ102, GUJ102G, GUJ102P, GUJ102Z, GUJ103, GUJ107, GUJ113 GUJ116 and GUJ116HD (heavy duty) or UR (Uprated) RTC3291, RTC3458, RTC4587 HS195 GKN U3/803246 QL403 One point I noticed in my research was that some are given a 75mm x 27mm and others are given as 74.6mm x 26.97mm. I guess they are the same from a description point of view. I also mention that prices do va
  12. Thanks Steve for the detailed instructions. All very clear and I look forward to incorporating it in my new wiring loom in due course.
  13. So these TVC100010gx UJs are listed as Land Rover ones. A few months ago I researched part numbers and all theses appear to be the same size: GUJ102, GUJ102Z, GUJ103, GUJ107, GUJ113 GUJ116 and GUJ116HD (heavy duty) or UR (Uprated) RTC3291, RTC3458, RTC4587 HS195 So are they all the same at least in terms of fitting a TR6? Curiously the Land Rover codes did not appear to be listed for TR6s and vice versa. If so, I also found out that those listed for Land Rovers tended to quite significantly cheaper than those listed for TR6s. Do I thus assume one can definate
  14. Since everything currently appears to be located in Australia and for UK buyers that means a high postage cost plus a currency cost as it is in USD and perhaps an import cost I suggest it is not really for us in the UK. Not sure what it is trying to do. "At TrumpyBitz.com our aim is to overcome the problems of the usual sale sites for the Triumph car enthusiast and the ephemeral nature of Social Media sites, by limiting the advertising to Triumph car parts". Eh? never had problems elsewhere. Best of luck to them, then.
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