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In answer to your question yes mine was restored 26 years ago now and has been used in all weathers and Im no polisher, the chassis and underside which was done the same way as I always do them as ill

Day 6: Good progress this weekend.  All the dash out and steering column. Dash metalwork removed and the heater matrix out.  Wind screen lifted to remove dash pad. And windscreen and fr

Front end all stripped and waiting for sand blasting. Passenger side is a pile of bits while drivers side has been mostly blasted and waiting in temporary  bondarust for a quick re blast and two coats

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  • 2 months later...

Evening. 
purchased this on the “bay” and wonder if there is something missing. 
 

apart from bolt and O ring seals is it incomplete?  From looking at pictures of the adapter there is a second inner aluminium turning that should be present. 
 

can I buy spares or is it now just a paperweight and I should buy another. 

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  • 1 month later...

long time no posts…..Progress on the chassis. 
Engine in and mated to its newly refurbished gearbox and overdrive. Thanks Pete Cox for the gearbox job. 
 

next up is fully electronic ignition, Electic fuel pump and triple webers. That’s going to be a vertical learning curve. 

 

 

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Edited by InfinityJon
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On 4/18/2022 at 7:46 PM, InfinityJon said:

Evening. 
purchased this on the “bay” and wonder if there is something missing. 
 

apart from bolt and O ring seals is it incomplete?  From looking at pictures of the adapter there is a second inner aluminium turning that should be present. 
 

can I buy spares or is it now just a paperweight and I should buy another. 

41AD3F30-B965-487D-BF56-D55C0BB769F5.jpeg

E49576C4-CAE6-47D1-830B-503A7A757243.jpeg

7CF4D905-9752-4872-8B97-06D0A56BB6F7.jpeg

D2A3DBE6-BB2A-43BE-9B02-75D3E545966B.jpeg

CFDC4AE2-923F-4C8D-9B4E-18A4FD1AA7E7.jpeg

 

36 minutes ago, InfinityJon said:

long time no posts…..Progress on the chassis. 
Engine in and mated to its newly refurbished gearbox and overdrive. Thanks Pete Cox for the gearbox job. 
 

next up is fully electronic ignition, Electic fuel pump and triple webers. That’s going to be a vertical learning curve. 

 

 

FBF7A955-E3FF-4D4C-BEB6-9E08A9EB0B35.jpeg

0BCF3C39-CF00-463D-86E3-6082295C0FE3.jpeg

8F849027-BA4D-49CA-85C5-047CBA7876BC.jpeg

749509EA-6998-4BDD-BF5E-7225811CA383.jpeg

I believe what you have is a Mocal spin on oil filter adaptor. They are still in business and I would get on to them directly to establish whether you have the early type or later type. If you have the early type you may have a problem getting spares.

Bruce.

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That is an 'early' type.     It came with two sizes of O-ring, and a small square of BluTac!     The idea was that you did a trial assembly with the BluTac, measured how much that was compressed, then chose the appropriate O-ring!    There was a further problem in that the area of the block face that the O-ring bore on was variable in diameter from block to block.    No matter with the original oil-filter, but the narrow faced O-ring would sometimes not seal to the face.

The new type has a built-in, wide rubber seal attached to it.    

John

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21 minutes ago, john.r.davies said:

That is an 'early' type.     It came with two sizes of O-ring, and a small square of BluTac!     The idea was that you did a trial assembly with the BluTac, measured how much that was compressed, then chose the appropriate O-ring!    There was a further problem in that the area of the block face that the O-ring bore on was variable in diameter from block to block.    No matter with the original oil-filter, but the narrow faced O-ring would sometimes not seal to the face.

The new type has a built-in, wide rubber seal attached to it.    

John

Yes since found that out so purchased the new type. This one is up for grabs if anyone wants one. Though might not get many takers

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1 hour ago, InfinityJon said:

Yes since found that out so purchased the new type. This one is up for grabs if anyone wants one. Though might not get many takers

Make sure the filter screws on the centre nozzle more than a few turns. Mine was badly made with a short nozzle and blew the cartridge off on a cold start.

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  • 1 year later...

Problem!

I have a Mocal spin on oil filter adapter and the the seal between the oil filter and the mocal spin on flat on the pedestal keeps forcing its way out, even though the seal is in a groove in the filter when trying to prime the oil system.  This would indicate that oil is entering the pump, leaving at pressure and going into the filter but not getting any further, hence blowing the seal.  Is this because the oil is thick and cold or is there a blockage past the filter - Cant believe so as its a brand new recon engine and had more baths than a princess at a beauty spa.  I also airlined the oil ways before, and during engine rebuild.  

Does anyone have a picture of the oil pathways that i can refresh my memory with?

Also does the metal hem of the filter have to touch the face of the mocal adapter because at present there is a 1mm gap that allows the rubber seal to belly out of when the filter goes under pressure.

for understanding, i assume oil comes out the block from the lower outer ring then through the filter back onto the central opening. - where does it go from here?

Is it I just haven't wound the filter on enough? but any more and i i think it will distort the pressed threads in the filter.

Any help appreciated

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It does sound as though the filter isn't screwed on fully so the screw thread is bottoming before the rubber is properly compressed. What filter are you using?  

see the post here from "Jerrytr5:

and here:

 

Edited by RobH
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As I recall the bolt that holds the adapter to the block requires a huge amount of torque to seat that seal properly, even when painted on one side with sealant.. There's a chance you might have a mounting bolt that's too long and bottoming out- Mocal QA. 

Be very careful of the threaded steel  filter cartridge  nozzle on a Mocal filter. I don't know if their QA has improved but I bought one about 7-8 years ago and the nozzle only engaged the oil filter cartridge by about 1.5 turns .

Testing it with a cold start in the garage the filter cartridge  blew off- if it had happened on the road and I wasn't watching the oil pressure gauge it would have cost me the engine.

I had to unscrew the steel nozzle from the aluminum adapter   body and replace it with one that engaged the filter thread by 22mm.The story is on this post:

 

Edited by Mike C
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Hi,

at Thursday at the Stammtisch a mate told be about the troubles he had with this adapters.

I told him I don’t know anything about because I still use the original filter.

He: „why don’t you change?“

Me: „what was your problem?“

:lol:

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Hi John,
I have the adapter too, with a K&N HP2009 filter.
The fitting instructions are a bit cryptic I recall, and I had to "study" these before I completely understood it.

In below picture you can still see the rubber ring on the filter, it should not need to be compressed fully, although I had to use a spanner too to seal the rubber ring because I had initially tightened it on "feel" based on many similar filters on modern cars (the K&N filter has a hex-head in the casing, very helpfull).
On modern cars a bit more than "hand-tight" is usually sufficient for this type of filter, and I do not understand why this filter needed more.

 

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Hi Waldi

the problem I have is the ring is blowing out the groove in the top of the filter. 

I have a second filter so I might try that one in case the seal groove is faulty. 
 

could it be viscosity? Is is thick and sticky that Moss oil.

my next thought was to take one of the grub screws out of the gallery rail to see if oil is getting up to it. 
 

 

 

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3 hours ago, Z320 said:

Hi,

at Thursday at the Stammtisch a mate told be about the troubles he had with this adapters.

I told him I don’t know anything about because I still use the original filter.

He: „why don’t you change?“

Me: „what was your problem?“

:lol:

Just so

Get out of the habit of fixing things that ain’t broken 

John

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Hi John,

I use a 20-60 grade oil, and your oil should not create this issue.

I assume you mean the rubber flat gasket on the oil cartridge? It should not blow out, there is definitely something wrong.

The pressure gage is also connected to the oil gallery, how much pressure does it show during cranking?

There is an oil pressure control valve next to the filter location, if the plunjer is stuck this could lead to very high oil pressure and this could be your issue; be warned this can also damage the oil pump drive.
The plunjer has a narrow fit in the block, I needed to lap mine because it was sticking when I installed a new one, and others reported the same.

Waldi

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Waldi

i have measured the spring length on the PRV and its 43mm long not 40. Would this make a difference?(it was a new spring and new Piston). I’m going to remove the pressure gauge and crank the engine to see if oil comes out the spigot. That will confirm oil it at least in that area. 

Edited by InfinityJon
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John have you checked that you don't still have an old rubber ring from a previous filter still in the ali receiver ?

Also had this problem when oil pressure was to high . Replacing the release valve assembly cured this.

Roy

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Do you have the oil cooler fittings on your new housing?, if you have you need to connect them together with a pipe, do not cap/seal them off.  or is it like the picture of Waldi with no oil cooler?  The insides are different if you have or haven't an oil cooler.

John

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1 hour ago, John L said:

Do you have the oil cooler fittings on your new housing?, if you have you need to connect them together with a pipe, do not cap/seal them off.  or is it like the picture of Waldi with no oil cooler?  The insides are different if you have or haven't an oil cooler.

John

The oil cooler is not connected yet so I have a 15mm full bore loop to join the in and the out. 

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4 hours ago, InfinityJon said:

Waldi

i have measured the spring length on the PRV and its 43mm long not 40. Would this make a difference?(it was a new spring and new Piston). I’m going to remove the pressure gauge and crank the engine to see if oil comes out the spigot. That will confirm oil it at least in that area. 

John,

I can’t answer that completely, the spring length and spring constant (kilograms of force per mm of travel) are the 2 ingredients, but if the new spring is longer than the nominal length that it should be that would not be ok. Are are you comparing old versus new?

Did the new plunjer move freely in the bore when you installed it?

And are there any additional rings behind the spring? These will increase the opening pressure.

If the prv remains closed/stuck there should be a lot of pressure coming to your oil gallery.

Waldi

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