InfinityJon Posted November 24, 2019 Author Report Share Posted November 24, 2019 12 minutes ago, Mk2 Chopper said: Looking good, what's next build up the chassis? Pretty satisfying to do all this and know it's right. Gareth Hi Gareth, yes time to get all the parts I have previously painted out of the cupboard and start the chassis rebuild. New hardware and poly bushes being installed. Need to order new springs and dampers along with deciding if to go down the Wilwood brake route or not. Not ordered new bearings either Quote Link to post Share on other sites
InfinityJon Posted November 24, 2019 Author Report Share Posted November 24, 2019 (edited) Question. How do you know if you need new Trunnions? What’s the test? Edited November 24, 2019 by InfinityJon Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JochemsTR Posted November 24, 2019 Report Share Posted November 24, 2019 If you have vertical link out, screw on trunnion and feel if there is noticeable play... if not, you are good to go.... Jochem Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waldi Posted November 25, 2019 Report Share Posted November 25, 2019 Agree with Jochem. It is important to thoroughly clean the VL and trunnion first, so all old grease and dirt are removed as grease can mask clearance/wear. After cleaning, install with just a bit of light oil for testing. If found ok, use grease (some use oil) during final assembly, and once installed, use the grease gun via the nipple until grease escapes from the top, where the rubber seal is. Waldi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
InfinityJon Posted November 25, 2019 Author Report Share Posted November 25, 2019 Turning thoughts to the engine, what’s the deal with Carbs? Can I change the engine to triple Webber’s? This is a CF US engine. Who do I talk to, what do I need to do. Do I need a New head? I obviously need a new inlet Manifold. I also assume I need New fuel pump etc. If I can do a triple set up, do I need three Weber DCOE 40. Any other spec details? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
InfinityJon Posted January 26, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2020 (edited) Like you do! painted the springs in XHT and baked it for an hour. the front suspension have all been put together “finger tight” to confirm fit. All new poly bushes and hardware. Next stage to insert springs and torque up nuts and bolts. New Steering rack and components in. Brakes and brake lines next. Sorry to the purists but Callipers will be white with white rotor centres to match the springs. Suspension ironwork is a custom Dark grey. Edited January 26, 2020 by InfinityJon Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richard Green 54 Posted January 26, 2020 Report Share Posted January 26, 2020 Just caught up with this post... Excellent job, well done. Having previously carried out a similar restoration on a UK car I can appreciate the amount of commitment required. My advice is sod the purists and do whatever suits you Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JochemsTR Posted January 27, 2020 Report Share Posted January 27, 2020 Jon, the front suspension parts are spray painted? correct? Which paint did you use? Acrylic, 2K ? Jochem Quote Link to post Share on other sites
InfinityJon Posted January 27, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2020 No I used por15 topcoat. (Don’t like topcoat prefer the gloss black chassis paint to use)And that’s brushed. The springs are sprayed with rattle tin. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
InfinityJon Posted February 2, 2020 Author Report Share Posted February 2, 2020 Springs and shocks in both sides!Need to paint the two spacers that keep the steering arm away from the drop link then install the hubs. I have already installed the new bearings in the hubs and am awaiting new Callipers and disks. Drop links and front torsion bar ready to go in. That will conclude the front end! yeh! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
michaeldavis39 Posted February 2, 2020 Report Share Posted February 2, 2020 Infinity I hope you didn't have any paint on the metal to metal mating surfaces of your suspension assembly--never have paint on those surfaces as you will have problems later on when after driving your car the paint surface will begin to break down due to vibration - maybe you knew this but not everyone does. Best wishes Michael Quote Link to post Share on other sites
InfinityJon Posted February 2, 2020 Author Report Share Posted February 2, 2020 35 minutes ago, michaeldavis39 said: Infinity I hope you didn't have any paint on the metal to metal mating surfaces of your suspension assembly--never have paint on those surfaces as you will have problems later on when after driving your car the paint surface will begin to break down due to vibration - maybe you knew this but not everyone does. Best wishes Michael No, mating surfaces clean and paint free. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richard Pope Posted February 3, 2020 Report Share Posted February 3, 2020 On 1/27/2020 at 4:00 PM, InfinityJon said: No I used por15 topcoat. (Don’t like topcoat prefer the gloss black chassis paint to use)And that’s brushed. The springs are sprayed with rattle tin. I'm a great fan of POR15. Did you use Top Coat over POR 15 Rust Preventive Paint or just the Top Coat onto bare metal? Finish looks good too for a brush. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
InfinityJon Posted February 3, 2020 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2020 1 hour ago, Richard Pope said: I'm a great fan of POR15. Did you use Top Coat over POR 15 Rust Preventive Paint or just the Top Coat onto bare metal? Finish looks good too for a brush. Chassis painted in POR15 rust preventive. Other bits had topcoat over the top of POR15 RP. Im not as happy with the adhesion of the topcoat to the RP paint but we will have to see how it lasts. At least it has POR 15 under it. Really pleased with the brush finish. The paint flows well. Not tried Topcoat direct to metal. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
astontr6 Posted February 3, 2020 Report Share Posted February 3, 2020 On 1/26/2020 at 8:40 PM, InfinityJon said: Like you do! painted the springs in XHT and baked it for an hour. the front suspension have all been put together “finger tight” to confirm fit. All new poly bushes and hardware. Next stage to insert springs and torque up nuts and bolts. New Steering rack and components in. Brakes and brake lines next. Sorry to the purists but Callipers will be white with white rotor centres to match the springs. Suspension ironwork is a custom Dark grey. Hi Jon! I do not think that it was a good idea to bake the spring for 1 hour in the oven, at 160, as you probably have soften the heat treatment( temper) of the spring wire? Bruce. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waldi Posted February 3, 2020 Report Share Posted February 3, 2020 It will depend on the material. Annealing is done at a much higher temperature, depending on the alloy, I guess 580-620C region for this material. Low temperature annealing can start at 300C. But items like bearings should not be heated beyond 130C or so. Not sure what the effects are on this spring material. Waldi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ed_h Posted February 3, 2020 Report Share Posted February 3, 2020 You do need to be careful with heat on hardened steel, but tempering temps for spring steel would normally be quite a bit higher than 160 C. Ed Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richard Pope Posted February 5, 2020 Report Share Posted February 5, 2020 On 2/3/2020 at 1:59 PM, InfinityJon said: Chassis painted in POR15 rust preventive. Other bits had topcoat over the top of POR15 RP. Im not as happy with the adhesion of the topcoat to the RP paint but we will have to see how it lasts. At least it has POR 15 under it. Really pleased with the brush finish. The paint flows well. Not tried Topcoat direct to metal. I painted my Dax chassis in POR 15 RP the used their Chassis Black as top coat - sprayed both. The POR15 RP went on great. Chassis black came out rough (sandpaper feel) but really tough. The roughness may have been my spray gun with some water (condensation?) ingress somehow as some parts were great. I thought you must have some second coat over POR15 RP anyway. I'm planning on going with POR15 RP then POR Top Coat and brushing all of it on that's why I'm impressed with your final finish. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
InfinityJon Posted April 23, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2020 Diff and prop shaft stripped, painted and rebuilt. Bearings all spot on with no play. Really smooth running. No pitting on the meshing faces. New shims Installed. And home made special tool to spread the diff casting. Output shafts out, new oils seals all round and painted ready for install. Again bearings spot on. Let’s hope it works as it should in drive! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
InfinityJon Posted April 26, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2020 Questions: flywheel- is it normal for the ring gear to be somewhat pissed on the flywheel? 100% the flywheel is not buckled. clutch cross shaft and release fork look like a bodge with lots of play. Is this normal or a repair? Release bearing and carrier looks and sounds shot. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PodOne Posted April 26, 2020 Report Share Posted April 26, 2020 Hi Jon Here's my 10 pence worth. Cross shaft has had a repair to replace the tapered pin which by all accounts shears so is replaced with a nut/bolt looks like a belt/braces with two! I'd just drill/lock tight and wire them just to ensure they don't work loose. Release bearing I'd replace along with the clutch while its out and the carrier if its worn. Flywheel ring gear should defiantly be on square with no run out relative to the rest of the "hub" or its going to unbalance the whole of the bottom end. I'd suspect its been poorly replaced in the past it needs removal and refitting properly and then balancing. Andy PS are you the same infinity Jon who used to be on the mx5nutz forum a few years back with a supercharged 5? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
InfinityJon Posted April 26, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2020 Cheers Andy. I suspected the ring gear was not correct. Should the shaft that the fork is on be fairly sloppy in the Ali casting of the bell housing? Looks like shaft is under size. No to the last bit. Not me and Never had a supercharged 5 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted April 27, 2020 Report Share Posted April 27, 2020 11 hours ago, InfinityJon said: Cheers Andy. I suspected the ring gear was not correct. Should the shaft that the fork is on be fairly sloppy in the Ali casting of the bell housing? Looks like shaft is under size. No to the last bit. Not me and Never had a supercharged 5 There should be bearings in each side of the bell housing for the shaft to run in. Item 20 here https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr5-6/clutch-transmission-drivetrain/clutch-systems/clutch-system-tr5-6-1967-76.html It also looks like your gearbox nose extension cover is badly scored too. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
InfinityJon Posted May 11, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2020 Engine stripped! couple of issues. Pistons 1 and 2 have scoring on front side but rest are fine. bores are good but 1 and 2 have marks that correspond with the piston marks. The marks in the bores cannot be felt so wonder if a polish would deal with it rather than a re bore. Journals on the crank are good with no marks. End float- oh dear....I’ll be ok if it’s measured in inches. would this explain the marks in pistons 1 and 2? But why only 1 & 2 and not all of them? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
InfinityJon Posted May 11, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2020 Head stripped! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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