RobinTR Posted October 3, 2017 Report Share Posted October 3, 2017 I have a TR6 stored outside under a tarpaulin awaiting home restoration. Some exterior panels have surface rust (and burrowing under paint), but these original panels are basically sound. I am getting back to bare metal with acid type rust removers and wire brushing , but surface rust is quickly returning. Next year I hope to have more time available for tackling the surface pits using rust remover, wire brush, localised shot-blast, power sanding, primer etc., so I am looking for a temporary treatment which will prevent further deterioration, but which will not make this later work even more difficult. Should I use: a recommended rust converter rather than remover, or zinc spray paint, or apply something like WD40 or grease? Unfortunately putting it in a humidity controlled garage is not an option! What is suggested to put a hold on further deterioration until next year? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Cobbold Posted October 3, 2017 Report Share Posted October 3, 2017 It will rust fast because its under a tarp. It would be better under a carport or simple roof to deflect rain.The most important thing is to allow air to circulate freely over, under and through it. Peter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted October 3, 2017 Report Share Posted October 3, 2017 Every time you get any part of it to bare then coat it with this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BONDA-RUST-PRIMER-ZINC-ANTI-RUST-PRIMER-2-5-LITRE-/321117430271 Or even just coat everything with it. it will save it for the time being. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iain Posted October 3, 2017 Report Share Posted October 3, 2017 +1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tom Fremont Posted October 3, 2017 Report Share Posted October 3, 2017 There was once a product in the US called Triple Etch, from Martin Senour Paints which was a special phosphoric acid preparation. Applied with a brush and rinsed off after 2 minutes ( keeping it wet throughout ) there would be no flash rusting thereafter; the steel would acquire a grey tone and stay that way in damp conditions. I even had spots where the paint had chipped off over a 24 year period which never took to rusting at all. I finished the last of it with my concourse car in 2007 and haven't found a replacement since. Maybe one exists; if so, that would be the best option if stored indoors ( don't know if it could withstand constant immersion in water ). Cheers, Tom Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Charlie D Posted October 3, 2017 Report Share Posted October 3, 2017 Tom mentions “…a special phosphoric acid preparation...” I’ve found ordinary cheap phosphoric acid to work well. I stripped my TR to bare metal about 20 years ago and sponged it all over with phosphoric acid. It spent at least 4 years in a field wrapped in a plastic tarpaulin. (Yes, Peter, I agree totally with what you said, but wrapping it in tarpaulin kept it out of sight of the local scrap metal merchants.) It’s in my garage now, still with that satisfying grey coating on it. I think there is some form of phosphoric acid that you can get from farm supply shops for next to nothing. I’m sure I heard that it’s used to wash cow’s udders, but that doesn’t seem right somehow. Not sure what the professionals will say about it, but it worked for me. CharlieD Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Don H. Posted October 3, 2017 Report Share Posted October 3, 2017 There was once a product in the US called Triple Etch, from Martin Senour Paints which was a special phosphoric acid preparation. Applied with a brush and rinsed off after 2 minutes ( keeping it wet throughout ) there would be no flash rusting thereafter; the steel would acquire a grey tone and stay that way in damp conditions. I even had spots where the paint had chipped off over a 24 year period which never took to rusting at all. I finished the last of it with my concourse car in 2007 and haven't found a replacement since... Have you tried Metal-Ready from the POR-15 folks, Tom? It does something similar, from my experience. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted October 3, 2017 Report Share Posted October 3, 2017 Bonda Primer as recommended by Stuart is the one. Just remove the surface rust with a wire brush and slap it on. It will keep the rust at bay for at least a couple of years without any further treatment. Rgds Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tom Fremont Posted October 3, 2017 Report Share Posted October 3, 2017 Have you tried Metal-Ready from the POR-15 folks, Tom? It does something similar, from my experience. New one on me, Don, but it says active drying will reduce surface rust which is what happened when I tried other preparations. Worth a try, though. Best, Tom Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobinTR Posted October 3, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 3, 2017 Thanks guys for the various suggestions I was a regular user of Bonda Primer many years ago, so was intrigued to see that the product is still around for Stuart's recommendation. My only concern about this sort of "tough skin" treatment is wondering just how difficult it will be to later remove from the depth of the rust pits and pock marks? If it chemically combines with the iron oxide then this might make it resistant to subsequent treatment with acids formulated to dissolve rust. Maybe I will have to resort to localised shot-blasting for the final prep... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Paul Down Posted October 3, 2017 Report Share Posted October 3, 2017 Tom mentions “…a special phosphoric acid preparation...” I’ve found ordinary cheap phosphoric acid to work well. I stripped my TR to bare metal about 20 years ago and sponged it all over with phosphoric acid. It spent at least 4 years in a field wrapped in a plastic tarpaulin. (Yes, Peter, I agree totally with what you said, but wrapping it in tarpaulin kept it out of sight of the local scrap metal merchants.) It’s in my garage now, still with that satisfying grey coating on it. I think there is some form of phosphoric acid that you can get from farm supply shops for next to nothing. I’m sure I heard that it’s used to wash cow’s udders, but that doesn’t seem right somehow. Not sure what the professionals will say about it, but it worked for me. CharlieD Charlie it is sold in Farm supply shops as "Milkstone remover" used to clean out milking equipment , not cows udders as far as I am aware. 10 litres cost me about £20 a few years back. I have a TR2 that was stripped of paint 40 years ago then painted with Bondaprimer it has been in a damp barn for 30 years and although some very minor surface rust shows it is amazingly sound and has deteriorated very little. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Don H. Posted October 3, 2017 Report Share Posted October 3, 2017 New one on me, Don, but it says active drying will reduce surface rust which is what happened when I tried other preparations. Worth a try, though. Best, Tom I'll bring a small spray bottle of the stuff next time I pass through Cincinnati, Tom, if you haven't scored any before then. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tom Fremont Posted October 4, 2017 Report Share Posted October 4, 2017 You da man! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
graeme Posted October 4, 2017 Report Share Posted October 4, 2017 If you don't want to use paint as Stuart suggests, you can use Picklex 20 which I have used on bare metal with good results. https://picklex20.com/ Cheers Graeme Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted October 4, 2017 Report Share Posted October 4, 2017 "Unfortunately putting it in a humidity controlled garage is not an option!" Not sure if you mean you haven't got such an environment, but for the same size of footprint as your TR covers you could buy an exterior Carcoon which will give you your humidity controlled environment for not much money. There is often some used exterior Carcoons on E Bay around the £300 area which will do your job, and if you have the TR at home can be run from the house electrics via extension cable for well under £15 a year (the fans for the circulation only use milliamps). If the exterior panels are rusting so is the rest of the car. Try and put a little more information on your signature, we have members around the world (check out some of their signatures on their posts above) and knowing where you are stationed would get better info for you. Mick Richards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted October 4, 2017 Report Share Posted October 4, 2017 Have you tried Metal-Ready from the POR-15 folks, Tom? It does something similar, from my experience. The problem with that is what you try and paint over it with as some primers will just fall off it. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted October 4, 2017 Report Share Posted October 4, 2017 Thanks guys for the various suggestions I was a regular user of Bonda Primer many years ago, so was intrigued to see that the product is still around for Stuart's recommendation. My only concern about this sort of "tough skin" treatment is wondering just how difficult it will be to later remove from the depth of the rust pits and pock marks? If it chemically combines with the iron oxide then this might make it resistant to subsequent treatment with acids formulated to dissolve rust. Maybe I will have to resort to localised shot-blasting for the final prep... Rotary wire brush either on a grinder or a pointed one in a die grinder to get into the small pits. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4-100mm-Twist-Knot-Flat-Wire-Wheel-Cup-Rotary-Brush-Angle-Grinder-M14-Thread-/352053497441?epid=2254428046&hash=item51f8060e61:g:ax4AAOSw3gJZEt~5 http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/abrasive-end-brushes/0374480/?searchTerm=374-480&relevancy-data=636F3D3126696E3D4931384E525353746F636B4E756D626572266C753D656E266D6D3D6D61746368616C6C26706D3D5E285C647B362C377D5B4161426250705D297C285C647B337D5B5C732D2F255C2E2C5D5C647B332C347D5B4161426250705D3F292426706F3D3126736E3D592673743D52535F53544F434B5F4E554D4245522677633D4E4F4E45267573743D3337342D343830267374613D3033373434383026 I often have to do this as I coat everything in Bondaprime until I can get round to leading the required areas and obviously it needs to be clean to get that done properly. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
HSM Posted October 4, 2017 Report Share Posted October 4, 2017 Paint shops use etch primer on bare metal before painting. Harvey S.Maitland Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted October 4, 2017 Report Share Posted October 4, 2017 Paint shops use etch primer on bare metal before painting. Harvey S.Maitland But that has no rust killing properties and is porous so no good to leave outside.Also it needs to be used as part of a complete paint system as not all primers will work over it. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted October 4, 2017 Report Share Posted October 4, 2017 Hi Harvey, I know etch primer is used on steel but in the aircraft industry it is used on Ali alloys only to aid the adhesion of the top coat to the structure. Bare Ali can be a devil to keep paint on. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
HSM Posted October 4, 2017 Report Share Posted October 4, 2017 I think the best advice I can give would be to contact H.Marcel Guest Ltd in Manchester a manufacturer of automotive & industrial paint products. If you talk to one of the chemists in the lab. I am certain they will supply any information you require. An excellent firm been in business for more years than I care to remember. Harvey S.Maitland Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted October 6, 2017 Report Share Posted October 6, 2017 Why not accept the solution put forward by Stuart who has been rebuilding cars since Adam was a lad? Rgds Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iain Posted October 8, 2017 Report Share Posted October 8, 2017 +1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted October 8, 2017 Report Share Posted October 8, 2017 After Stuart showed me I stipped a 5 bonnet back to bare 80 grit bondarust 2k primer then stored in a damp outbuilding 4 years guess what no rust. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dic Doretti Posted October 8, 2017 Report Share Posted October 8, 2017 No doubt Bondrust is the solution, have been using it for 20 years (it was used Bondaprimer then). Cheers Richard Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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