Jump to content


Registered User
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Profile Information

  • Location
    Camberley, Surrey
  • Cars Owned:
    Current: 1967 TR4a, 1972 TR6, 1976 Stag
    Past: Sunbeam Talbot Mk III, Minor 1000, Triumph Herald

Recent Profile Visitors

370 profile views
  1. Dave, luckily no horrors on this part of my car... must be the only sound bit I have found! Visible corrosion was limited to some rust forcing one of the bottom plate tags away from the main bracket. As I am doing a "cut out all rust" restoration this tag was removed, revealing matching corrosion on the side of the bracket, so 15mm of this was trimmed away. This allowed me to look and feel around inside the bracket; I was very surprised to find only surface rust and no obvious thinning of the concave cap. Will consider drilling a drain hole at the lowest point of the bracket, which
  2. Thanks Stuart. Will check for corrosion and only repair if necessary
  3. I suspect that the rear wheel arch mounted brackets can rot out from the inside, so was planning to remove, treat and replace the contact faces during my TR6 rebuild. However, the square shaped face is dished in, so please can someone advise if they started flat, but have dished as the result of repeated bump stop action, or if the originals did have concave faces?
  4. Refitting the reinforcement gussets at the base of the B-posts. Original reference points were absent, but looking at pictures of other cars it appears that the raised triangle part is in exactly the same plane as the flange for the door seal. Is this right, or is there a set distance between the plate and the flange to allow for the correct fitting of the seal?
  5. Five minutes with a shrinking disc has made a great improvement... now just needs a slight skim of filler. Note that paint will be fully stripped back before finishing
  6. Hi Start, That is just the information I needed; a great help, thanks. I'll see what I can do to smooth things out a little
  7. Hi Stuart, the floor structure was extensively over-plated sometime in the 1980's due to severe rusting. Now not possible to save with let-in patches, hence the two new Heritage panels. Concours is not my aim, but I want to get as close to factory look as possible given the time I have already spent on the car. These ripples bug me, so I was thinking of working them out with a shrinking disc, or just dressing low, then applying a skim of filler. Nothing of the original remains at these points, so I would appreciate any information/pictures indicating how these areas would have looke
  8. I will be facing the same dilemma soon. One thing I had planned was to mount the damper, rotate the crank and check the circumference with a dial test gauge to see if there is any run out. My engine was static for a long time, so I could imagine inconsistent swelling of the rubber if oil leaked to the low point. Would appreciate any suggestions for a reliable replacement item
  9. Looking for practical feedback on fitting Heritage boot floor panels (either side of the wheel-well) on a TR6. The pressings have ripples adjacent to the main raised section. Fitted panels were rusted and plated over years ago, so I cannot see if these ripples were present on the original floor, (like the ripples on the front wheel-arch), or only on these later panels. If not like the original, then can they be removed with hammer and dolly, or better to a disguise with a skim of body filler? Or do most folks just fit them as is and be grateful that these panels are still available?
  10. Found the drive gear on the oil pump/distributor shaft is loose (rotates a few degrees). The gear for the PI metering unit is fine. I see the main suppliers still stock replacement Mills pins, so is this a common problem? I assume that the pin should be driven out with a small punch (tapping on the end of the pin which still has a slightly conical end). I will try to support the gear to avoid damage, but any other advice? Can I expect to find wear on the pin, or a slightly enlarged hole in the shaft? If the latter, then any suggestions as to how to remove the slop?
  11. Thanks Stuart... your picture is a great help; I will repair to include a lip Regarding "angles"; I should have been clearer and said the rake of the windscreen. Angle between door top and frame edge is 60 degrees on my TR4A, but more raked at 55 degrees on the template I made before dismantling the TR6. Window glass is packed away in boxes and the hood frame is not suitable as a reference. Was there any change in door glass and windscreen rake between the 4A and 6 or should they be identical ?
  12. 1) Need to repair the scuttle corners where the screen frame passes through a hole on each side. For a restoration on a TR6, should the hole be flat with the scuttle, or with a raised lip on the forward edge (like current rusty state) 2) I made a template off the screen frame before dismantling... it appears to be more angled than on my TR4A... is this correct for a 6?
  13. Thanks Stuart. I may consider making up a slip plate to add a bit of strength, but fit this only after setting bonnet gaps. I will be fitting a new BMH wheel arch on the side with the BL inner wing; I assume that this is fitted so that the whole of the fillet between flange and arch is visible when viewed from the inside. It just about does this without trimming the flange (although the flange is a bit wider towards the front of the wheel arch), but is my assumption correct?
  14. Rebuilding TR6 which had poorly fitted replacement front inner wings (edge welded to wheel arch over remains of original inner wing). I will refit these as I think they could be original BL replacements (from details in the pressing and by comparison to a reference three-piece repro). 1) I found a historic posting on this forum where Stuart advised checking that the inner wing has reinforcement at the hinge mounting point. The repro panel has a fixed plate with captive nuts, but the "BL" just two 18mm dia holes (which put the hinge in a slightly different location to the repro). I thin
  15. I have run several searches on the forum, but have not found the information, so I now ask about a pre-used replacement TR6 bonnet that has been chemically stripped to bare metal: 1) What is the recommendation to get some anti-rust protection between the inner support frame and the underside of the outer skin; paint somehow, or another other method after painting? 2) When new was there mastic or a rubber strip as cushion between the inner and outer elements, or just the primer paint on the individual parts? If factory applied cushion, then how to replicate? 3) Both original and rep
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.