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Badge Bars and Badges


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Can anyone offer some advise on badge bars etc. I've got a TR3a and would like to fit a badge bar with 2 badges and a couple of spot lamps.

 

To be honest, it's likely Stuart will fit it all when JSK next visits him in Cornwall, but I thought I'd post up because a) I'm curious and B) I'm fed up with people asking me what I want for Christmas and this seems like a good idea.

 

So I would like to fit a Register Badge if possible but it looks like the enamel badge is actually for the grill. Can these be fitted to a badge bar (any photo's of your appreciated).

 

I'd also like to buy a GRRC Member badge but these look to be side fitting rather than the usual bottom fitment. How on earth do you fit these to a badge bar or is does this need to be fitted to a grill? They look like this:

 

http://www.automobiliaforsale.co.uk/product-details.asp?Cat=CarBadges&ProdId=856

 

Lastly, any suggestions as to suitably period correct spot lamps? Do people wire them into their main beam (I have the original wiring and fuse boxes) or is another switch on the dash (I'd prefer to avoid this).

 

Any advise would be great!

Thanks

Richard

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Richard, Moss sells a badge bar that goes between the front overriders. I think they have a couple of options including one that has provision for aux lamps. This is the one that I have fitted on my TR3A.

 

DSC_0001_zpszm2zahbl.jpg

 

 

I have the aux lamps (one fog and one spot) wired through individual relays and with separate TR3 pull switches (F and S) on a small panel under the dashboard. The relays will only operate if the sidelamp circuit has power. I realize that local laws may have different requirements which may force you to take a particular approach.

 

Stan

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The badge bar that fits across the front bumper overriders has tabs for lights and fits up beautifully.

 

The GRRC shop has both side-fitting and bottom-fitting badges for sale on the website and in the shop at the circuit. Or at least they did until recently -- they're out there, Richard, and I'm sure you can find one.

https://ticketing.goodwood.com/PagesPublic/ProductBrowse/product.aspx?group1=Gentlemen&group2=Accessories&group3=*EMPTY&group4=*EMPTY&product=00000045_NA

00000045_NA.jpg

 

There are adapters to take side-mounting (or back-mounting) badges to bottom-mounting, or alternatively it would be the easiest fab in the world to make one from stainless, aluminium, or anything else.

 

There are tons of ways of wiring auxiliary lifhts. I have an original 50s-era Lucas switch and plate (two side-by-side) from one of the factory rally teams back then that at some point I'll wire under the dash. The knobs are white, which I'm reliably informed wasn't uncommon back then to aid visibility in the dark.

 

My car has two Lucas lights, a SLR576 driving light on the driver's side and a SFT576 fog light on the passenger side -- currently not connected! That's a typical British installation (the spot + fog part, not the unconnected part!). Over here, it was a lot more common to have both lights match.

i-ddCqMdF-X3.jpg

 

When I wire them up I'll likely use relays and a wiring diagram available from a number of sources. Here's a nice TR3A/TR3B diagram drawn by Mike Hado some years ago, which lives on my garage wall. Click on image for full-sized view.

i-BpL5Np8.jpg

Edited by Don H.
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I have stone shields on my driving lights. I've had fog lights broken those on other cars due to road debris, and plus, I think they look nifty. :) These are reproductions of the rarely-seen Lucas originals.

i-sTZXMDN-X3.jpg

Edited by Don H.
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So I would like to fit a Register Badge if possible but it looks like the enamel badge is actually for the grill. Can these be fitted to a badge bar (any photo's of your appreciated).

 

Hi Richard,

 

I have a spare early TR Register grill badge if you wanted one of these type - this one isn't mine, it just shows the type.

 

£25 plus P&P - please PM me if interested and I'll send some photos.

 

38211048-53fe-11e6-912e-75377ceab96d.jpg

 

Cheers

Andrew

Edited by Andrew Smith
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The side/end mounting badge bar is designed for TR3A and bolts directly to the overider stay position on the top rear of the overider - SO - no drilling is needed.

 

 

At one time C&B had these made in stainless by a chandlery suppliers to be sure to get non rusting stainless and a very bright finish. No idea what they are now since the cost cutting accountants poked their noses in.

 

Peter W

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Ok, then make it £125! :D

 

Cheers

Andrew

I have a boxed NOS - one its yours for GB £ 500.00 plus postage.

 

Peter W

 

PS Sorry too late now sold.

Edited by BlueTR3A-5EKT
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Construction and use regs in this country mean that you have to have any auxiliary lights coming on in pairs so usually better to have a pair of spots or a pair of fogs. One slight problem with the fitting across the overriders is the lamps tend to dance about a lot as the mounts arent that strong.to support the 7" lamps.

Stuart.

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I had a badge bar made up in stainless steel . It is mounted low down close to the front bumper. There are captive nuts in each end of the bar and this means that I had to drill holes in the over riders. The bolts are fitted from inside. There is a small stay bracket as part of the lamp mounting which is fixed by a bolt to the front apron and provides stability.

 

In those days it was OK but now originality is more important. It is very stable, no rust, and takes a couple of badges and a plinth for a small mascot from my fathers Sunbeam.

 

The two lights have a relay which is only live when side lights are on. There is an extra switch on the dash board, which I have placed in the choke switch position. The choke has moved over towards the steering wheel which gives a straight run to the carbs.

 

It all works well.. Richard & H. :)

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My badge bar is from Rimmers and fitted very well - and I have had no issues with the chroming. It has two horizontal bases for the lamps.

 

I also have a plate that sites inside the overrider (A Wickes steel angle bracket adapted), which allows the lamp bar to sit at anyone of three different heights.

 

I did this simply as with 7" spots they sat very high.

 

My lamps are a 731 replica from SVC - they were recommended by a former technical director. My view is that they aint the most robust, but iIsuspect no different to most replicas.

 

Circa £99 ea v's 125+ from the likes of Holden

 

http://www.s-v-c.co.uk/product/l731-spot-light-/

 

On the attached pic there are at the lower setting. If you bolt the bar straight in, they probably sit 1 1/2" higher.

 

With big lamps and badges I have had no issue with air getting through the cowl.

 

fullsizeoutput_fb7_zpserlo1bej.jpeg

 

I also have one of those early register badges, mine is badly cracked and in terrible condition.

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Construction and use regs in this country mean that you have to have any auxiliary lights coming on in pairs so usually better to have a pair of spots or a pair of fogs. One slight problem with the fitting across the overriders is the lamps tend to dance about a lot as the mounts arent that strong.to support the 7" lamps.

Stuart.

TR3A - Jiggling of lamps solved with the old Abingdon Special Tuning mod of two flattened out jubilee clips attached to the top of the back of the lamp and a grille retaining screw. This also enables the lamps to be 'aimed'

 

'Bin there done that with stainless jubilee clips that I bought in build them yourself form http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/8pc-Hose-Clip-Set-Easy-Turn-2-Sizes-Jubilee-Type-Pipe-Clamp-Stainless-Steel-/322257387312?hash=item4b08097f30:g:N8wAAOSwQaJXRGXO

 

Two ends and the turn buckle in the middle.

 

Peter W

Edited by BlueTR3A-5EKT
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...a spare early TR Register grill badge if you wanted one of these type - this one isn't mine, it just shows the type.

 

£25 plus P&P - please PM me if interested and I'll send some photos.

 

Andrew, you have pm.

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Ok, then make it £125! :D

 

These were designed by a guy called Alan Robinson in the seventies and I used to flog them out of the spare bedroom in my Buckinghamshire semi at £5 each (I think) to help finance the hire of Goodwood

 

Nostalgia ain't what it used to be.....

 

 

James

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Thanks for all the replies chaps. I've started a little list that I'll talk to Stuart about but seeing the pictures on here makes me think a badge bar and some lamps looks good.

 

Andrew, thanks for the offer of the TR Register badge. I see Don has PM'd you - if he is interested I think he has a lot more interest in a historic badge having been a member for longer than me so feel free to let him have it (if not, I would be interested but I think Don might be the more deserving owner on the basis I'd be just as happy with a modern one).

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Andrew, thanks for the offer of the TR Register badge. I see Don has PM'd you - if he is interested I think he has a lot more interest in a historic badge having been a member for longer than me so feel free to let him have it (if not, I would be interested but I think Don might be the more deserving owner on the basis I'd be just as happy with a modern one).

 

Richard,

 

If your'e happy for Don to have, I'll send it across the pond.

 

Cheers

Andrew

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That is the type that used to come in reverse light kits.

Peter W

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Thanks for all the replies chaps. I've started a little list that I'll talk to Stuart about but seeing the pictures on here makes me think a badge bar and some lamps looks good.

 

Andrew, thanks for the offer of the TR Register badge. I see Don has PM'd you - if he is interested I think he has a lot more interest in a historic badge having been a member for longer than me so feel free to let him have it (if not, I would be interested but I think Don might be the more deserving owner on the basis I'd be just as happy with a modern one).

Richard. I think have a spare similar one, only mine has the word "REGISTER" along the bottom.

 

Bob.

 

post-12009-0-48381700-1481708150_thumb.jpg

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