thealastair34 Posted May 15, 2015 Report Share Posted May 15, 2015 Been out in our Tr6 for the first time tonight, its fair to see that brakes are not that great. are there upgrades options out there to improve this? im going to check drums and blled the brakes tomorrow but apart from that can you get uprated pads or run brakes from another model? my non servo 72 vw camper slows better and has a better pedal feel currently! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Cobbold Posted May 15, 2015 Report Share Posted May 15, 2015 After a lay up I use several really hard brakings from say 60mph to 10, to clean off rust and get the pads/shoes hot to bring a new surface into play. Peter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted May 15, 2015 Report Share Posted May 15, 2015 Standard brakes are very good, if yours arent then they need looking at before you waste your money on needless so called upgrades. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TriumphV8 Posted May 16, 2015 Report Share Posted May 16, 2015 (edited) Besides the problem that brake pades and/or discs are not in proper order TR6 deals with two problems: Fading of the brakes due to non vented front brakes mainly on motorsports. That can be cured with a vented disc brake kit that expand the standard calipers or use new brake calipers what is quite expensive. I have cheap vented discs from modern cars in use and made my own spacer kit according to that. Too much brake force needed due to hot cams with poor manifold vaccuum or only the feeling due to the swap from modern allday car with big brake booster to the TR6 weekends. This is mainly not a problem to get the car stopped but leaves the nasty feeling that brake power is poor. Can be cured by a separate vaccuum pump instead of using the (poor) manifold vaccuum. I have a 65 amp generator from OPEL Corsa diesel in use with mechanical vaccuum pump directly connected on the rear. Cheap and very effective on my 290 degree camshaft. Other soultion is to use the Volvo 9" brake booster with two diaphragms behind each other what doubles the effective area to assist the brake. The rear brake can be improved by the finned aluminum drums but they are suspect to bad quality these days. They are similar to the Datsun brakes that can be made fit to TR6 but these are very rare. Best would be to swap to discs but that is another story because its not possible to get that road legal with historic car in Germany. Edited May 16, 2015 by TriumphV8 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jersey Royal Posted May 16, 2015 Report Share Posted May 16, 2015 One thing often neglected is to check the rubber hoses on each corner. Quite obvious they need replaceing if cracked, but being rubber you dont know whats happening inside.Rubber can swell. so in my opinion best replaced with new or go for braided. http://www.revingtontr.com/shop/product_display.asp?mscssid=BADH1HP6N4KB9H433SJ1P4LP2XK6DTF2&ProductID=RTR4063 http://www.revingtontr.com/shop/product_display.asp?mscssid=BADH1HP6N4KB9H433SJ1P4LP2XK6DTF2&ProductID=RTR4062 I am not connected with the above, just a happy customer. Cheers Guy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
HarveyCoppock Posted May 16, 2015 Report Share Posted May 16, 2015 As was said use them a bit, and bleed it first. How old are the hoses? Are they still balanced, ie does it brake in a straight line? If the back is poor you probably won't notice from the footbrake but the cylinders need to be able to slide. After a long lay up - I had just fitted new seals to the front calipers but it would have been sat 10 years after that..... the fronts weren't coming off, think that was corrosion but had new stainless pistons since then. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR NIALL Posted May 16, 2015 Report Share Posted May 16, 2015 What Brake Pads are you using on the Front? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted May 17, 2015 Report Share Posted May 17, 2015 As suggested above check to see if all the brake pistons are working properly. Even Stainless pistons can get bonded to rusty calipers. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted May 17, 2015 Report Share Posted May 17, 2015 Standard brakes are very good, if yours arent then they need looking at before you waste your money on needless so called upgrades. Stuart. +1 Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
graeme Posted May 18, 2015 Report Share Posted May 18, 2015 +1 Peter W +2 Standard brakes in good condition are excellent for road use. Graeme Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Cobbold Posted May 18, 2015 Report Share Posted May 18, 2015 +3 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MadMarx Posted May 18, 2015 Report Share Posted May 18, 2015 I rely on good brake pads on standard brakes. They can do hours of Nurburging Nordschleife racing with ease and outperform many upgrade brakes. Cheers Chris Quote Link to post Share on other sites
thealastair34 Posted May 19, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 19, 2015 hoses are fine, both pistons work fine. discs are good. brakes in a straight line. bled up fine and adjusted rear brakes, must just be poor brake pads. putting a set of 1144 pads in this week and will report back. i drove 3 other tr6's before buying this one and they all stopped better. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nick Jones Posted May 19, 2015 Report Share Posted May 19, 2015 1144s are very good for road use - should improve the bite alot Nick Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tom Fremont Posted May 19, 2015 Report Share Posted May 19, 2015 So-called semi-metallic pads made the difference for me, cutting the pedal force dramatically. Got mine from TRF. Rear brakes respond well to adjustment; their contribution is significant if not major and when they have too much clearance don't do their part. Cheers, Tom Quote Link to post Share on other sites
thealastair34 Posted May 19, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 19, 2015 (edited) 1144s are very good for road use - should improve the bite alot Nick yes im a fan, i run them in my Elise and by seven loads better than stock and they were only £45, fitted them tonight, have a crank seal to change this weekend so ill test them after that. noticed the brakes have purple fluid, presume this is dot 5 and silicone based. can i flush the system and use normal dot 4? Edited May 19, 2015 by thealastair34 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Prefect Posted May 19, 2015 Report Share Posted May 19, 2015 I agree with Nick, Mintex 1144 make a marked improvement as long as they are bedded in correctly. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jersey Royal Posted May 19, 2015 Report Share Posted May 19, 2015 I agree with Nick, Mintex 1144 make a marked improvement as long as they are bedded in correctly. Yeah, I seem to recall your bedding in procedure Peter. So what is the speed limit at LC. 20mph? Cheers GUY Quote Link to post Share on other sites
simonjrwinter Posted May 20, 2015 Report Share Posted May 20, 2015 I have a 4 piston brake upgrade fitted to my car which originally came from a Racetorations car that the owner decided to fit 6 pots to (!) The discs (larger vented and grooved) only just fit inside my alloy wheels. In normal everyday usage the feel and feedback is pretty much identical to the discs/calipers that I took off, however, when you REALLY need to stop, they are fantastic. Probably an overkill for road use and the way I tend to normally drive, however they were too good an opportunity to pass up! Simon Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted May 20, 2015 Report Share Posted May 20, 2015 Hi TheAlastair34 (have you got a name please), the purple brake fluid is almost certainly SBF. Put some in a small glass and add some water. If it is SBF it will not mix. If EG it will mix. There is great debate about changing and 'how to' SBF & EG. One supplier of SBF states to simply add to the previous EG system. Nobody say the opposite - simply add EG to the previous SBF system - because nobody makes money out of that one. The seal rubber is the same for both SBF and EG but the unknown is what happens to an EG contaminated seal that then lives with SBF or the opposite. Many peoples opinion is to flush the system with methylated spirit or similar and replace ALL rubber seals (Master and slave units) The SBF may actually be the cause of the poor braking if it is heavily contaminated with air - bleeding will not remove it. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
thealastair34 Posted May 20, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 20, 2015 Hi Roger, its Alastair thanks for that info, to be fair i would rather put normal dot 4 in there Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted May 20, 2015 Report Share Posted May 20, 2015 (edited) Hi Roger, its Alastair thanks for that info, to be fair i would rather put normal dot 4 in there In that case you would really have to strip and clean and re-rubber the entire system and flush the lines with Meths. Thats the way I would go as I neither use nor recommend Silicon and as Roger says it may also be contributing to the current poor performance of your brakes. Stuart. Edited May 20, 2015 by stuart Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Graham Posted May 20, 2015 Report Share Posted May 20, 2015 5.1 anybody ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Cobbold Posted May 20, 2015 Report Share Posted May 20, 2015 (edited) I've used silicone** for twenty years, no issues. Brakes - all standard, no idea what pads are in there - will lock 205 section tyres even under cadence braking. I am extremely sceptical that Alastair's brakes are suffering from Dot5. And I certainly would not change two things at once ! Peter **It was put into brand new system - new seals, pipes, hoses etc Edited May 20, 2015 by Peter Cobbold Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted May 20, 2015 Report Share Posted May 20, 2015 5.1 anybody ? 5.1 is a higher spec version of DOT4 so not Silicon Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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