Graham

On a roll now guys, so with the carbs off have taken the plunge on an alternator upgrade, and whilst I have the access I've been looking at the starter motor. At some point its been changed out to the latter TR3a/4 type starter. I have a spare high torque starter for a TR6 will this fit the 3 ? I wouldn't have bothered normally but the stater does make some rather worrying noises some times, and whilst the car is in bits if the high torque will fit its an FOC fix.

From a previous post you will see that i have removed the carbs from UOV so I can send them off for rebuild. Whilst doing this been having a bit of a clean up of the accumulated muck and grime on the block. I've noticed that UOV has 'TR3' painted in red paint on the side of the block. My first thought was that this was a second hand engine and this had been painted on in a breaker yard to identify it, but the numbers all tie up with the original build sheet, so I'm intrigued to know if this was put on at the factory or I do have a replacement engine that's had an identity change.

Finally bitten the bullet and the carbs are off for rebuild at Andrew Turner, this brings me to the point of this post. Now that I have access I was going to simply do a +ve to -ve earth conversion, but was just wondering about doing an alternator conversion instead, whilst I have easy access. thoughts anyone ? If I do go down the alternator route I'm not planning to run a light bar the would shame an HGV, a small improvement in output will suffice. Anybody recommend a specific supplier 'kit' I know number of the suppliers do them, just looking for one that is EASY to fit.

Thinking of fitting a Racestorations rear roll hoop anybody fitted one before is it ant easy job

Well over the Holiday period UOV let himself down, went to start up for the Bicester scramble and wouldn't start, fairly certain its a sparks issue so thinking of converting to electronic ignition. I know there have been a number of previous threads on this but conscious that technology keeps moving forwards, so anybody have any recommendations ? was thinking more of the 'module' type solution rather than throwing the whole dizzy away but ultimately looking for reliability....................... with minimum maintenance !

There was a batch of faulty reproduction Brake master cylinders floating about out in the ether a few years ago, I naively assumed the all of the stocks of these had been identified and disposed of, guess who's got hold of a dodgy one ! After weeks of fighting overheating problems caused in part by a poorly manufactured water pump manifold, I finally get the car under its own steam ( pun intended) for its first road test only for the master cylinder to give up on me and spray (well drip really) brake fluid on the nice new paint, and as its cellulose the brake fluid didn't take any prison

Now that BUO's overheating issue has been resolved, by Enginuity, and she will now run for more than 5 minutes before doing an impression of the Jet'D Eau in Geneva next problem appears to be fuel pump resonation, Bosch 044 pump mounted on outside of spare wheel well Question what should I plan (budget) for change the main PRV hose back to a traditional construction one, change to a diaphragm PRV (existing one just refurbed by Neil) or both ?

Having failed to list this on BST I offer you: Dash top 811936 £110 (TR6 type) Switch plinth 718787 £55 (4 hole) Crash pad 812081 £60 Crash pad 812091 £60 Crash pad 818411z £60 (late TR6 type) Please PM me first come first served all reproduction but brand new.

Bit of a strange one.................well got me stumped anyway. Freshly, professionally, rebuilt 6 pot engine, rad fully flushed out and flows as it should, block chemically cleaned. Alloy pump manifold with new water pump. Car starts up fine. BUT just as the temp gauge goes over mid way thermostat opens and all hell breaks loose, car just boils, floods overflow bottle and it then looks like a rather bizarre water feature ! The pump impeller is all attached to the pump but if you remove the thermostat, put it all back together and start the car there is no flow of water visible in