AndrewMAshton

Hello, thanks for the response, done all the usual visual checks, I think it is heat related as the thing cuts out completely instead of showing a fault light, my next course is to tack down the heat switch, any clues to its whereabouts gratefully received, cheers, Andrew

Hello, not sure if this is where I should post, but here goes, I have an ecoair dehumidifier, DD122 Classic Mk5 that is playing up, briefly, it switches itself off after 20 minutes running on all three settings, I have checked the manual, no help, after having searched on t'internet it appears it could be a thermal cutout, anybody on here got any advice, experience, wiring diagram before I consign to the tip and buy another, it seems such a waste as the thing is not long out of warranty, cheers, Andrew

Lee, good old YouTube,

And a three year guarantee, if you can find your receipt!!

Richy, you may already know this but vital the trigger wheel is centred, the clearance between trigger wheel and sensor is about 5 thou, if you struggle I had mine done locally in Harrogate by a one man machine shop, the bloke in there wears a brown coat, always a good sign!, cheers, Andrew

Hello, couple of things, firstly, why not use 0.5mm thin wall cable instead of the 1mm, lighter and cheaper and the 0.5mm carries 11amp as opposed to the original 1mm carrying 8.75 amps, also the 1mm thin wall will carry as much as the 2mm standard cable. I understand the reason is that the modern cable has much more efficient insulation. Secondly, I think you were very lucky and your experience has forced me to fit an isolator on the earth side, I understand they were fitted to MGAs, a simple switch easily accessible from the driving position, it could save the car, cheers, Andrew PS, I think you need to remove and check the loom, it could well be that you have damaged insulation somewhere.

Or, even better, as a belated Christmas present to self, buy and fit the fully hydraulic co-axial clutch supplied by the suppliers of the racing upgrades, much lighter clutch and gets rid of all the faults of the original, cheers, Andrew

I also connect to the battery terminals first and then switch the charger on, cheers, Andrew

Dave, I have a home made one, threaded bar with substantial plate welded and bolted to the bottom and a deep nut on the top with a ratcheting wrench that makes it a quick process of removing and replacing springs, you can use it for the cost of postage, just used it to strip down and rebuild my front suspension, cheers, Andrew

These extensions increased my brake efficiency from 16% (15% is an MOT fail) to 25%, well worth fitting, cheers, Andrew

Hello, this comes up frequently and has been vexing me of late, which one shall I fit?, how does duration, timing, lift etc affect performance, found what I was looking for here, https://www.hotrod.com/articles/ccrp-9812-secrets-of-camshaft-power/ Good old Google!!, cheers, Andrew

Kevin, check that the brackets have a plate between the chassis and nut at the back, I posted pics on here a few years ago where the nuts pulled through a fairly new chassis, I am not an engineer but the chassis was sound and it must have taken some force to cause the damage, I believe CTM and Revington sell the brackets, it was an expensive fix!! Cheers, Andrew

Hello Stuart/Roger, it looks like the 2/3/4 use seals on the wishbone assembly' but not the 4a and 5, also reading the instructions in another bag when using superpro bushes on the trunnion link pin you discard the seals, cheers, Andrew

Hello, replacing all the bushes on the front suspension on my 4A, I bought the stuff a couple of years ago and only getting round to it now, there is a bag of 8 seals, Superpro part number SPF2496-8K, I can see where two go, between the vertical link and the trunnion, I can find find no sign where the other 6 (I assume a total of 4 per side) are required, am I missing something?, as always, thanks, Andrew