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Have a search on this one as there is everything from Magnecor 8mm at about £80 to old style copper ones for £15, recommendations across all groups. Personally having spent money on silicone leads in the past cant claim I noticed a huge difference ....

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I have and like KV85s too Menno

 

Not sure they are the best value for money at about £70 for a set, but they are top quality and last a lifetime?

 

Steve

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Copper core are great and certainly look the part, but be aware that they can cause interference with electronic equipment.

 

In my case, my Brantz rally tripmeter started self-zeroing in a random manner and it took me ages to find the problem... Changed back to "modern" ones, fixed!

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Hi all, thanks for the replies.

 

Might try and make my own copper leads coz i like tinkering.

 

Roger, would a hotter plug help on start up? Once the engine is running cleanly I have no further problem.

 

I think after standing the fuel leads lose pressure and as the pressure builds up during start up a weak spark fouls the plug on No.4.

 

Once again thanks for all replies

 

John

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Hi John,

why not swap one of the existing leads with #4 and see if it happens again.

 

Not sure a hotter plug would help during start up as it would be cold initially.

 

People swear by the expensive leads and if that keeps them happy then fine.

People also swear by cheap copper or even graphite leads and that is also fine.

I thought I had copper leads but found they were graphite thread - they worked perfectly for 14 years.

A lot of the quality in leads is in the insulation under serious conditions.

 

Tim, a basic copper lead is not suppressed so wiil/could cause interference.

If you used a suppressed plug cap or a suppressed plug that may remove the interference.

 

Roger

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I have and like KV85s too Menno

Not sure they are the best value for money at about £70 for a set, but they are top quality and last a lifetime?

Steve

 

I found them a bit cheaper than this @ Holdens Automotive.

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I'm sure that in the days when all leads were copper and we all used to make up our own, it was pretty well essential to fit a suppressor (capacitor??) in each lead to avoid interference with TV signals which was an offence. I still have some old leads so-fitted amongst my spare/relics. I think there were also plug caps which had the suppressor built-in. Never had a problem with copper leads but I do remember spraying them and the dizzy and associated electrics once a year with some sort of insulation liquid or WD40.

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Copper. Buy a length and cut to suit. Inexpensive and unlikely to cease working.

 

Whatever leads are fitted, if the engine compartment gets really wet, one is likely to suffer arcing. But a blast with WD40 usually solves the problem.

 

Remember that the carbon conductor inside the centre of the distributor cap is present to conduct from the coil HT to the rotor arm, and it will wear away It is a Service item, obtainable from the Distributor Doctor). In doing so, it will disperse fine carbon dust onto the inside of the cap, and, if the dust is not removed periodically, it can short the HT to earth - which means the engine stops!

 

Ian Cornish

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If the lead for No. 4 is "a bit stretched" then perhaps it is damaged & does not have continuity from one end to the other.

 

I would just buy a set of new leads from any of the usual suppliers eg Moss, Rimmers etc, they are most unlikely to give you any problems for many years, & are not that expensive.

 

Bob.

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