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About RobinTR6

  • Birthday 04/26/1952

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  • Location
    Harrow Middlesex
  • Cars Owned:
    Classic cars including italians. Dont mind getting my hands dirty. Finished restoring my a couple of TR6's and a BOC on TR5.Fell for an Alfa 2000 GTV 1972, barn find, great drive. Decided to go back to TR's. Recently acquired a part restored TR6....and.........see the posts

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  1. Billy, Ive had a raft of Pm's and have responded on a first come first served basis. The Vent flap rod and the linkages are gone. All the other bits still available. Apologies if youve missed out. Whats left is the box of plastic injector seals (think some are new, varisou PI components, pipes , adapters, pump overflow pipe MU seal. Regards Robin
  2. The long bar is the bar that opens the vent flap in front of the screen. I believe they are NLA .
  3. Ha---been in SI as wife is in Australia....time to sort garage. I have the following bits, Triumph with Injection badges: rod for vent flap(quite hard to get ), plastic injection sleeves; 2 PI link rods (old type); 3 Injector keep plates,: box of mostly PI bits (broken injector,plastic sleeves, other bits). As an old TR6 man myself these are just bits from my ownership days now no use to me. Given all the help I got on here they are available for FREE (you pay postage tho and packing if I need to buy a bag or box): dont make this too hard please so more bits in one go better
  4. Mine is from TRGB now done 15k Ian without issue, they are pretty good at what they sell and stand by their spares. So shouldn't be any problems.
  5. Neil has done loads of returns on my Tr6s. MU, injectors, Lucas pump and injector hoses and PRVs, all very good and sensibly priced, so can commend his work.
  6. heres some of the detail from the links above I had always wanted to build a “fast” British car and wanted to craft something unique. My intentions were to build a virtually stock appearing TR6 that performed at insane levels while delivering exceptional reliability. Various V8’s have found there way into these cars over the years but require many modifications that I was not willing to live with (steering geometry, firewall cutting, weight changes, etc.). While this was no mere “bolt-in” process, the net results lightened and balanced the overall car and required absolutely no changes to
  7. RobinTR6

    Lever Arms

    Stevens did mine updated....what a difference and in my view more tractable, comfortable and better handling all round. I've tried the various telescopic alternatives but found the original levers updated with stiffer springs is the best I've experienced.
  8. Yep it's spring loaded but shouldn't be hard to operate by hand.
  9. Think I did this from underneath, without removing anything. Unfortunately it was a bigger using a pointed pliers and lots of swearing......took about an hour. Arms will be aching...but better than removing the tunnel IMO.
  10. I had one , MU, that is that rattled a bit, audible when bonnet opened, worked for ages like that then started leaking from the rear plastic cover. At the time I was told by those in the know that some 'just do that'.....
  11. Not wishing to confuse but Revotec fan is a Comtec fan and very good too. I bought one, the fan that is, from them and fitted it on some brackets. Unfortunatley I had an overheating issue and had already bought a new radiator......the fan has never been used as the car has never gone past the half way mark on the temp gauge....in 3 years ...and no I didnt remove the original. So tend to agree that the original on a sorted cooling ssystem seem to be fine.
  12. Hi, simply no. Original amber clear are hard to come by in good nick and expensive either used or new....
  13. keith, main loom and overdrive loom thru big hole underneath washer bottle oil pressure feed half way between battery and brake pipes, bulkhead, about half way up bulkhead ie centralised right hand side of washer bottle about half way up cable for bonnet opening obs two holes for washer botttle bracket above large central wireing loom hole hope that helps
  14. Can't help on the serial numbers but the PI dizzy has no vacumn advance so although the little hat thing is present. It, the hat, should point toward front of car. It may be that you haven't aligned the rotor arm pointing to no.1 cylinder and the metering unit feed to no.1 so the are synchronised. The procedure is in the brown book. This probably why your plug leads don't seem to be in correct orientation. Hope that helps.
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