Dick Posted November 25, 2013 Report Share Posted November 25, 2013 Identifying the correct antifreeze seems to have got complicated.......especially for wet liner engines. I need antifreeze for ..... TR3a....wet liner and limited aluminium parts. Toyota Hilux Diesel....lots of aluminium parts. Freelander diesel....lots of aluminium parts. Kubota Diesel......limited aluminium parts. Bentley Mulsanne....wet liner and lots of aluminium. Talbot 105......iron engine but lots of 1933 aluminium. It appears that a large drum of Bluecol no longer fits all. Just another complication!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lee Dutton Posted November 25, 2013 Report Share Posted November 25, 2013 Hi Dick, I still swear by Bluecol but mix it with De-ionised water not tap water, on the classics and use dealer supplied on the Euroboxes. regards Lee Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianc Posted November 25, 2013 Report Share Posted November 25, 2013 Advice from FBHVC is as follows: Only use blue coloured Inorganic Additive Technology (IAT) antifreeze in historic vehicles – do NOT use Organic Acid Technology (OAT) products. Always replace the coolant within the time scale specified by the anti-freeze manufacturer as the corrosion inhibitors break down over time. Halford’s sell a blue-coloured ‘Advanced’ anti-freeze which has a label containing the phrase: ‘Older vehicles can further benefit…’ but this product does indeed contain OAT and therefore cannot be recommended for historic engines. Ethylene glycol is extremely poisonous and will kill animals and humans if ingested, so take great care when disposing of used antifreeze. For further detail, consultant the FBHVC's website. Ian Cornish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dave Larnder Posted November 26, 2013 Report Share Posted November 26, 2013 Hi Guys I use COMMA SUPER COLDMASTER DILUTED 50% with de-ionised water, and it stays in all year round and I find that I get less discolourisation with rust that with other products. DON´T let us get into EVANS Waterless Coolant again!. Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bigmalcy Posted November 26, 2013 Report Share Posted November 26, 2013 This Halfords A-F is what we used... it says that it's 'IAT based' and not OAT so should be suitable for a 3A based on Ian's advice... http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_176849_langId_-1_categoryId_255224 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ashley James Posted November 26, 2013 Report Share Posted November 26, 2013 TBH I've had a good look at the OAT spec and can't see any reason why it may not be more suitable and last longer. Does anyone have any actual fact to prove it is unsuitable? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted November 26, 2013 Report Share Posted November 26, 2013 Hi Ashley, Google has a whole stack of posts regarding the dangers of OAT. Here is a typical post http://www.da7c.co.uk/technical_torque_articles/right_antifreeze.htm It is a bit like EP oils and yellow metals. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR4Geoff Posted November 26, 2013 Report Share Posted November 26, 2013 Hi Ashley, A few years ago I had the engine of my '4' rebuilt as the figure of eights were knackered. After the rebuild, I made the mistake of using OAT and after about 20K miles she started "using" water - she was leaking into the sump via the F-O-8s! When the engine was stripped, there was absolutely no sign of any sealant ANYWHERE** (above or below) the F-O-8S - it would seem the OAT had completely eaten the sealant! Needless to say, I now use the old fashioned "Blue" stuff from Comma 50/50 and haven't had any problems (yet!) after approx 40K miles - I wouldn't touch OAT with a bargepole as far as the "4" is concerned! Geoff PS**. Yes - sealant was certainly used during the first rebuild - I saw it being applied! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Don H. Posted November 26, 2013 Report Share Posted November 26, 2013 For use in your Toyota, here's a strong recommendation for the dealer's red Toyota coolant. I've run it for years in my Toyota Tacoma and my Lexus RX350. My mechanics seek it out especially for Toyota servicing -- they don't recommend anything else for one and during a discussion earlier in the week they consider this one of the few long life coolants that really IS a long life coolant. With respect to classic cars like our TRs, it seems that FBHVC report that added to the debate in January 2010 is no longer on their website (although lots of people are still referring to it). http://fbhvc.co.uk/2010/01/27/antifreeze/ Quoting from other club sites from that report seems to be a collection of anecdotes and random fears. I'm not seeing what I consider conclusive evidence of inorganic vs organic additive technology. For example, from THIS link: However these products do seem to cause problems in older engines; over and above the ability of antifreeze to find the smallest crevice and leak, OAT antifreezes have been accused of destroying seals and gaskets and causing a great deal of damage in ‘old’ engines. For this reason the manufacturers of OAT antifreeze products do not recommend their use in historic and classic vehicles. These products are usually coloured red, pink or orange. Does anyone have any solid technical data or personal experience? This seems to be a UK-centered debate? Maybe an abundance of caution where change is concerned? We don't seem to burn a lot of calories on this over here. I run a typical US bright green coolant (ethylene glycol based, with who knows what stabilizer) and have nothing remarkable to report. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Don H. Posted November 26, 2013 Report Share Posted November 26, 2013 ...When the engine was stripped, there was absolutely no sign of any sealant ANYWHERE** (above or below) the F-O-8S - it would seem the OAT had completely eaten the sealant!... Interesting. Thanks for the report. I gotta check with some folks over hear to see if there's something to report from our side... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted November 26, 2013 Report Share Posted November 26, 2013 Interesting. Thanks for the report. I gotta check with some folks over hear to see if there's something to report from our side... It would be good to track this down Don, I probably use the same flourescent green/orange stuff that you do. Just drained the TR3 cooling system coincidentally.. Stan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
silvertop_john Posted November 26, 2013 Report Share Posted November 26, 2013 An interesting thread for me, having just been to Costco and bought, on impulse, some Prestone Extended Life antifreeze. The blurb on the container says that it is compatible with all passenger vehicles and any type of antifreeze, whatever colour, and contains a silicate and phosphate free formulation. Prompted by this thread, I spent a bit of time googling reviews of Prestone today, and am now more confused than ever - lots of comments for and against. Anyone used it in a TR? John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MikeF Posted November 26, 2013 Report Share Posted November 26, 2013 Silicates and phosphates are inorganic compounds of the type used in stabilizers and it says it is free of them, so it is likely to be stabilized with organics. Mike Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted November 26, 2013 Report Share Posted November 26, 2013 Identifying the correct antifreeze seems to have got complicated.......especially for wet liner engines. I need antifreeze for ..... TR3a....wet liner and limited aluminium parts. Toyota Hilux Diesel....lots of aluminium parts. Freelander diesel....lots of aluminium parts. Kubota Diesel......limited aluminium parts. Bentley Mulsanne....wet liner and lots of aluminium. Talbot 105......iron engine but lots of 1933 aluminium. It appears that a large drum of Bluecol no longer fits all. Just another complication!! Dick Pm me and I will put you in contact with someone close to where you are. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
phil leech Posted November 30, 2013 Report Share Posted November 30, 2013 Glad I saw this chaps! Realised I have had the wrong A/F in my 250 for about a year (Motoquip Premium Red ). Immediately went out to the garage (22:15) and drained her - will flush and refill with something Blue (but not borrowed!) tomorrow. Thanks again All Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Davidw Posted December 9, 2013 Report Share Posted December 9, 2013 What about 4 Life? Haven't used it myself but many years ago the late Prof. Michael Bingley endorsed it in a letter to TrAction. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted December 9, 2013 Report Share Posted December 9, 2013 I use 4 life. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ashley James Posted December 10, 2013 Report Share Posted December 10, 2013 Hi Ashley, Google has a whole stack of posts regarding the dangers of OAT. Here is a typical post http://www.da7c.co.uk/technical_torque_articles/right_antifreeze.htm It is a bit like EP oils and yellow metals. Roger But we now know that EP oils don't harm yellow metals and never did. We got all this tripe with synthetic oils too. I'm not using OAT, but I might yet. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted December 10, 2013 Report Share Posted December 10, 2013 But we now know that EP oils don't harm yellow metals and never did. No but GL5 does. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
McMuttley Posted December 29, 2013 Report Share Posted December 29, 2013 Question from novice here. Assuming i get the Halfords product as above and aim to dilute it 50%, is that 50:50 or 100:50 (water to ant - or anti to water!)? Is de-ionised water Secondly, what is the volume of of diluted liquid for a TR3A (has a 4 engine at 87mm). Quote Link to post Share on other sites
McMuttley Posted December 29, 2013 Report Share Posted December 29, 2013 ps, thanks in advance Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BrianC Posted December 29, 2013 Report Share Posted December 29, 2013 Engine capacity is irrelevant. Cooling system capacity is 13 pints (7.4 litres) without heater; 14 pints (8 litres) with heater. So for your quoted concentration, approx 4 litres antifreeze plus 4 litres water. Mix it first and add slowly (e.g. 2 lires at a time), preferably with the front raised a little to minimise possibility of airlocks. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AndrewMAshton Posted December 30, 2013 Report Share Posted December 30, 2013 Hello, used 4life for about 10 years now in a 4A, engine rebuilt about 1998, no problems. I bought it from MGOC and I don't recall any comments on their site re suitability for older cars. Also, the car does run cooler so for me, it works, Cheers, Andrew Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.