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About bigmalcy

  • Birthday 05/28/1975

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  • Location
    Melbourne, Aus.
  • Cars Owned:
    1964 TR4: sold in 2011
    1960 TR3A: in the family since 1966

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  1. That's what I thought... but RIchard definitely said doors open... so when you do it Stuart, you also undo all body mounting bolts? No issue with body flex with the doors shut?
  2. HI Richard Just curious about the method of removing the springs... are you saying that you undid all body fastenings, left the doors open and then jacked up the rear? So in leaving the doors open you allowed the body to hinge slightly as the rear came up? I may have to do this myself at some point... what is the advantage in allowing the body to flex?
  3. oh - and here's a photo of the reason behind the rebuild effort... three teeth lost from 1st gear on the layshaft.
  4. Well - with your help, the gearbox is out and is almost completely stripped down. Already I am somewhat more philosophical about the demise of 1st gear, as it has prompted me to delve into a gearbox for the first time and actually start to learn how the bloody things work... which has led to a few questions... 1. I can't figure out the function of the 'extra' little ball bearing and associated plunger in the 2nd gear synchro hub... it is described in the exploded diagram as being an interlock... my question is, interlocking what, exactly? I think that the 3 springs and ball bearings in the same hub are to hold the outer synchro collar thingo in 'neutral position', but I can't figure out what the interlock ball bearing etc is for. 2. Another query relates to the washer that sits between 1st gear and the big bearing at the rear of the box. The washer I removed is just a plain round washer... not the triangular shaped bearing shown in the exploded diagram (part # 060569). Photo below. 3. Lastly - to replace the clutch fork securing bolt (which snapped off)... am I just as well re-tapping the hole in the fork to accept a metric hi-tensile ss bolt and use that? Only issue I suppose would be drilling a hole for the lock wire... the old threads in the fork seem to have survived my drilling out of the original bolt. TIA!
  5. I don't need any help being a worrier, thanks Charlie! Engine now supported on blocks At the very least it gives me an extra reason to get the box fixed and the car move back out of the way!
  6. Well - the box is out, and came out relatively smoothly. Worst parts were getting enough height to remove the rear mount plate and rubber block, and clearing the clutch arm. I removed the selector thingo and installed handles as suggested by Icarus. Initial inspection indicates that I've stripped some teeth from first gear on the output shaft, but it's probably time for a full inspection and refurb. Thanks again for your help!
  7. Thanks fellas - I've gone with the wooden strip against the firewall... plenty of creaking and groaning as it took up the slack and slipped a little against the firewall, but seems ok now. Will probably chock the engine up under the sump once the car's back in position and waiting for the box to be re-installed... seems like a lot of load on that firewall.
  8. Hi guys Following on from recent chat about gearbox removal... once the box is removed, is it ok to just support the engine using a block of wood between the engine and fire wall (see photo)? I would like to be able to move the car about the garage once the box is removed. I hope that the support under the engine is only really required while there is a chance of the gearbox applying additional load onto the engine (which can happen I presume despite best efforts to support box and engine separately). TIA!
  9. Hi guys - thanks to one and all for the great ideas and suggestions. That's helped a lot - one day I may build that crane, but for now I'm going to run with those handles bolted across the top and some judicious application jacks and levers. Thanks again - will let you know how I go.
  10. Dear collective Following last weekends destruction of gears, the 'box is coming out. Having never done this before (engine and box were installed on the chassis before the body was mounted), I am looking for tips and suggestions for how best to manoeuvre the box out of the car. I am comfortable with what needs to be disconnected etc, and the need to support the back of the lump. What I am looking for are some tips on things like where to lift, how to angle the box etc, and things to avoid. The box is obviously located under the dashboard, so first question is, how to lift it up and back? TIA PFA
  11. Hi guys Thanks for all the responses... I think I've found a suitable 4-synchro box here in Aus with J type o/d. Based on prices of spares I reckon that's the path I will go down. Can anyone confirm that the gear ratios in the later boxes are the same as the original box with A type overdrive? Thanks again for your inputs!
  12. So - now I'm researching options for fitting an all synchro box. I've found the following box on the bay, but keen to understand what I need to consider... e.g. can I easily fit my top cover with o/d switches and selectors etc to this box? Is swapping the o/d unit over from my box to a non-o/d box straightforward? What other Triumph boxes can I use... 2000, GT6, etc? Which boxes require an adaptor for the rear mounting? TIA for your advice! https://www.ebay.com/itm/Full-Synchromesh-Transmission-Gearbox-for-Triumph-TR3-TR4-TR4A-TR250-TR6-TVR2500/323993648335?hash=item4b6f86bccf:g:KgQAAOSwXSZd3dYW&autorefresh=true
  13. I should really do some reading before turning to you lot... Based on my trusty Moss catalogue, it looks like reverse gear may operate through the 1st gear cog on the output shaft...? So it looks like I'm probably up for a 1st gear countershaft + reverse gear + 1st gear. Is now the time to install a later box with 1st gear synchro rather than fix the old one...?
  14. Well it looks like I jumped the gun... Both half shafts are ok... With car jacked up at rear and engine running she crunches and grinds like the proverbial in 1st and also in reverse. 2nd/ 3rd / 4th with and without o/d all spin the rear wheels without any accompanying noise so I am hoping that that discounts any o/d issues. Engine and box definitely coming out... presume the fact that it's reverse and 1st only may be a clue as to the cause? What is the common link (I know next to nothing about these boxes).
  15. EDIT... I originally thought it was a half shaft failure... turns out it is gearbox related. Grinding in 1st gear and reverse with very little drive. 2nd/ 3rd / 4th all ok with or without o/d. Looking for diagnosis while I start the process of removing the box and engine... at least this will give me a chance to fix that oil leak and a few other things. Original post: What a shame - just after thinking how well the car was driving and looking (and also consciously thinking how risky it was to be having such thoughts), a half shaft decided enough was enough... at least I hope it was the half shaft! I think I was partly to blame... or fully to blame... I forgot the handbrake was on and then when I took off from the lights, the car pulled away for a split second and then something went pop! I'm trying to re-assure myself that the half shaft should be able to take that sort of load, and so was probably going to break eventually anyway... not sure if that is true or not. Anyway - time to get hands dirty and confirm what's what. Two photos attached are the start of the day, full of promise, and the situation about 1hr later!
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