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About bigmalcy

  • Birthday 05/28/1975

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  • Location
    Melbourne, Aus.
  • Cars Owned:
    1964 TR4: sold in 2011
    1960 TR3A: in the family since 1966

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  1. Hi Rod All good - adjusting the lever position on the shaft to give the solenoid plunger a bit more slack at the 'off' position has done the trick. The o/d worked perfectly and actually engaged with just the right amount of urgency. Back to using a 10Amp fuse on the power supply, too, so the solenoid should be protected if it ever gets stuck in the 'pull in' phase. The Vanguard box and overdrive that I picked up for 250 pounds is almost identical to TR2 / TR3 units: the gearbox part is identical other than the clutch lever and selector cover etc. The overdrive is externally identical
  2. Hi Rod It's actually a Vanguard box which I bought as a semi-temporary stand in for the original box that lost first gear. It hasn't been rebuilt to my knowledge. The vanguard box worked well for a short period of time (two or three drives) before starting to blow fuses on the power supply to the solenoid. I am now using a new solenoid. Nice snappy pull in when car is not moving. Have swapped over all the actuating valve components except the top cap and the little plunger that bears on the top of the ball. No difference to symptoms, other than the lighter feel on the lever
  3. Grrrrrrr Getting really tired of this now. Took the car for a road test just now and the overdrive operation STILL is not working properly. Works fine in he garage, then not when out on the road. What I realised during this test drive, though, is that when the car is in motion, the oil pressure pushing down on the ball bearing is creating a sticking point in the lever action: the lever is light when the car is not moving, but when the car is moving the lever is stiff and requires a solid nudge to get it moving at first. Flicking the switch to acuate the solenoid when the c
  4. Hi guys - so I've finally (I HOPE!) got to the bottom of my stiff overdrive actuating lever and the resultant issues with solenoids. I compared the spring in the actuating valve from the recently acquired overdrive with the spring from the original overdrive and to my relief, there is a clear difference between the two. HOWEVER! As hinted at by Rod, I also discovered that I was not helping the situation by being too cute with the gasket I cut for the solenoid mounting plate: it was too tight around the actuating shaft, resulting in the action stiffening up to the point that the lig
  5. Hi guys - with the spring and plunger etc removed, the lever operation is similar in weight to my other overdrive unit, possibly even a little less heavy, so I don't think the seals are the root cause. Interestingly, when I purchased the overdrive and tested it with the seller, we discovered that the actuating piston thingo (with the tiny hole for oil pressure release) was bent... no idea how this would happen, but it also points to something being not quite right in this area. Also - that o/d info sheet posted by Rod seems to confirm that the spring I have installed is a heavier w
  6. Hi guys and gals My overdrive investigation continues. The new solenoid has certainly helped with the blowing of fuses, but I can't help but feel that there is something with this 2nd hand o/d that is the root cause of the solenoid problems. Even on today's test drive, on a couple of occasions the solenoid twitched as if it was trying to pull in, but did not actually lift the lever. Fortunately I was being very careful to monitor this and turned off the overdrive within a second or so. 99% of the times I flicked the switch, though, the o/d engaged as it should. What I have notice
  7. Hi Ian - don't worry, I read and understood your post... I thought that my old solenoid with resistance of 0.6ohms was close enough to your figure of 0.8 ohms. I also thought at that stage that when a solenoid failed, it would fail to the extent that the pull in function wouldn't work at all. Mine seems to have failed such that the pull in circuit resistance has been significantly reduced, but the pull in still seems to work, but not reliably, and will sometimes draw 30+ Amps with no pull-in action. I'm also not sure if the solenoid issues are just due to an internal fault, or my
  8. Hi Roger I have bought a new solenoid from our local supplier here in Aus. I haven't fitted it yet, but the resistance measurements indicate that the original solenoid has got a fault: the resistance of the new solenoid pull in circuit is approx. 1ohm, or twice what my old solenoid is... that will make a massive difference to the current and hopefully stop the fuse blowing. Will fit and test this weekend.
  9. Hi Roger The dash switch is separate to the fuse circuit that is blowing... the switch on the dash is protected by a separate fuse. Hi Rob - I've been super careful with setting the solenoid position, and am confident that the solenoid movement is not the cause of these issues. Having tried a new relay and established that that is not the source of the problems, the only other causes are a short in the wiring or a problem with the solenoid itself. I'll rig up some temporary new wiring to eliminate that as the source and then see if I can get hold of a replacement solenoid
  10. oh well - another fuse makes the ultimate sacrifice. New relay seemed to work for a couple of engagements out on the road (worked perfectly again in the garage), but then blew on the third try. Tomorrow I'll rig up new beefy power cables to eliminate those as the cause... in which case I'll be looking for a new solenoid as the final piece to test...
  11. I'll be buggered if I know! I'll have a look over the wiring to check for any chinks in the insulation, but I think it's highly unlikely that that is the cause. Really the only other cause that I can think of is something in the original relay that is causing a spike in current - maybe an intermittent short in the relay that is encouraged by movement and vibration. I'll pick up a new relay today and see if that makes a difference.
  12. I'd obviously test the operation with the resistor, to make sure it pulls in ok. I actually started with a 10a fuse which worked for a while before blowing... then tried 20amp which also worked for a while before blowing... now using a 30amp fuse which is blowing straight away when driving the car... but seems to work ok as described above with the car ticking over in the garage at 1500rpm. I suppose this increasing fuse rating could be a sign of something causing the resistance of the circuit to reduce over time... maybe something in the solenoid. The only other component in the syste
  13. Hi Roger I may be able to get hold of a solenoid to test. Will make some enquiries. I have progressed with some testing today and yesterday. I re-set the o/d actuation lever clamp and adjusted the bottom stop for the solenoid plunger to make absolutely 100% sure that it was properly set up. I am now even more sure that the solenoid is pulling closed properly and that it is also allowing the o/d to fully disengage when switched off. There are margins at both ends of the movement, if that makes sense. I then went out and tested the overdrive by manually pushing the lever on the R
  14. Hi Roger - yes, it's really high... actually infinitely high
  15. Hmmmm - interesting... so I've just checked the solenoid resistances which read 0.6 ohm and 12 ohms... which leads me to suspect maybe there is nothing wrong with the solenoid after all. I'll connect it to a battery tomorrow to see if it still pulls in. To start with, I was using a 10 amp fuse for the solenoid power supply, then tried 20 amp which also blew... and then when I went with the feed from the ammeter, it below the 30 amp main fuse I have installed inline with the ammeter. I can understand it maybe blowing the 10 amp and 20 amp fuses if it was running on the pull in coil cont
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