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About bigmalcy

  • Birthday 05/28/1975

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  • Location
    Melbourne, Aus.
  • Cars Owned:
    1964 TR4: sold in 2011
    1960 TR3A: in the family since 1966

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  1. Hi Roger The dash switch is separate to the fuse circuit that is blowing... the switch on the dash is protected by a separate fuse. Hi Rob - I've been super careful with setting the solenoid position, and am confident that the solenoid movement is not the cause of these issues. Having tried a new relay and established that that is not the source of the problems, the only other causes are a short in the wiring or a problem with the solenoid itself. I'll rig up some temporary new wiring to eliminate that as the source and then see if I can get hold of a replacement solenoid to check that side of things.
  2. oh well - another fuse makes the ultimate sacrifice. New relay seemed to work for a couple of engagements out on the road (worked perfectly again in the garage), but then blew on the third try. Tomorrow I'll rig up new beefy power cables to eliminate those as the cause... in which case I'll be looking for a new solenoid as the final piece to test...
  3. I'll be buggered if I know! I'll have a look over the wiring to check for any chinks in the insulation, but I think it's highly unlikely that that is the cause. Really the only other cause that I can think of is something in the original relay that is causing a spike in current - maybe an intermittent short in the relay that is encouraged by movement and vibration. I'll pick up a new relay today and see if that makes a difference.
  4. I'd obviously test the operation with the resistor, to make sure it pulls in ok. I actually started with a 10a fuse which worked for a while before blowing... then tried 20amp which also worked for a while before blowing... now using a 30amp fuse which is blowing straight away when driving the car... but seems to work ok as described above with the car ticking over in the garage at 1500rpm. I suppose this increasing fuse rating could be a sign of something causing the resistance of the circuit to reduce over time... maybe something in the solenoid. The only other component in the system is the relay... not sure if that could have a fault that causes excess current draw. Yes - you are obviously correct re the choice of fuse matching the rating of the wire. It's all a little confusing to say the least. I'll try out the resistor but also look into getting a slow blow fuse. Good idea!
  5. Hi Roger I may be able to get hold of a solenoid to test. Will make some enquiries. I have progressed with some testing today and yesterday. I re-set the o/d actuation lever clamp and adjusted the bottom stop for the solenoid plunger to make absolutely 100% sure that it was properly set up. I am now even more sure that the solenoid is pulling closed properly and that it is also allowing the o/d to fully disengage when switched off. There are margins at both ends of the movement, if that makes sense. I then went out and tested the overdrive by manually pushing the lever on the RHS of the box. All good with that. I then connected up the wiring and tested the electrical actuation in the garage with the engine off and the engine running (shorted one of the interlock switches on the top of the box). All good with that, too, and I confirmed that the current draw with the overdrive engaged is 1.0 Amps. Then when I took the car out to test the electrical actuation on the road, the 30a fuse blew as soon as I flicked the switch. I also checked the voltage across the battery at different engine speeds, which indicated a maximum voltage of 14v. The resistance of the solenoid pull in circuit is approx. 0.5 Amps so that would give a current draw of 28Amps for the pull in circuit. I am wondering if there is sufficient spike in current to blow the 30Amp fuse. The only thing that wouldn't support this theory is that it ran perfectly ok for a long time when it was taking power from the Ammeter, which is also protected by a 30Amp fuse. Originally, of course, the solenoid would have been on an unfused power supply. Anyway - I am considering fitting a 0.25ohm resistor in line with the solenoid to reduce the current draw by 8amps or so. Any drawback to that proposal that you can think of?
  6. Hi Roger - yes, it's really high... actually infinitely high
  7. Hmmmm - interesting... so I've just checked the solenoid resistances which read 0.6 ohm and 12 ohms... which leads me to suspect maybe there is nothing wrong with the solenoid after all. I'll connect it to a battery tomorrow to see if it still pulls in. To start with, I was using a 10 amp fuse for the solenoid power supply, then tried 20 amp which also blew... and then when I went with the feed from the ammeter, it below the 30 amp main fuse I have installed inline with the ammeter. I can understand it maybe blowing the 10 amp and 20 amp fuses if it was running on the pull in coil continuously, but it shouldn't have blown the 30 amp fuse?
  8. Dear Collective The overdrive solenoid on my newly installed Vanguard box has developed a fault whereby the incoming power connection is now shorted to the body of the solenoid. Fortunately, my newly installed fuse box did it's job and protected the circuit. I am aware of the need to be careful when setting the position of the lever so that the solenoid is able to pull completely in and engage the holding coil. I believe that I set this up properly - both by physical checking of the lever action, but also from the behaviour of the ammeter, which would flick instantaneously then return to previous position when engaging overdrive. My two questions are therefore - 1. If I didn't set the lever properly and the pull in circuit burnt out, does this result in the symptoms I now have (i.e. short circuit between power feed and earth)? I would have thought that the symptoms would be an open circuit, rather than a short circuit? 2. Do solenoids sometimes fail in this way (short circuit) when they have been properly installed and set up? Thanks!
  9. Hi Drew Your post prompted me to try importing my pdf wiring diagram into AutoCad, and what do you know... it worked! I also have a Word copy, but it is password locked and so I couldn't edit it... but now I can use AutoCad to make edits and updates to reflect the wiring changes I've made. Thanks for prompting me to do this. The dwg file attached is based on a 3A with -ve earth. The 2019 version of AutoCad was used to save it... if you need an earlier version then let me know. 3a -ve earth.dwg
  10. Hi Dave... not sure what the hickey stick cappings are, but I once posted the below which worked well for me. It's a long time ago, now, but I think this is the adhesive I used, to very good effect: https://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/product/1263/heat-resistant-adhesive
  11. Hi Ian I finally got the solenoid set up in the right spot and the o/d seems to be working very well indeed. Honestly - for anything other than track work or very spirited road driving, the slight delay in the take up of the o/d is more than made up for by the smoothness with which it operates. I definitely notice the increased road speed for a given engine speed, too... or at least I think I do I've heard many times before that the later o/d shouldn't need the clutch to engage it, but mine just would not allow me to do that. A change at any revs with any sort of +ve throttle would always result in quite a jolt, unless a dab of clutch and lift of throttle was used. Coming out of overdrive was smooth, though, without need for the clutch. Anyway - I'm happy enough now with the replacement box that I will put the interior back together and get the original box rebuilt.
  12. Well - I've just returned from the first test of the Vanguard box. Overall, I think for a 300GBP box and overdrive, it did well. Observations are: car is LOUD without the tunnel or carpets and sound deadening. distinct whine in all gears except 4th... could be layshaft bearings? changed gear smoothly, no synchro issues that i could tell. no oil leak from front end of box when I returned... could it be that the crank seal leak i had cursed since the car was built was actually coming from the front of the gearbox? the early type overdrive is VERY slow to come in, compared with the lightning bolt that is the later A type overdrive. BUT - you can use it very smoothly without the need for clutching or deft throttle adjustments, so this could be seen as a +ve. Looking fwd to seeing what difference the extra 6% makes to cruising revs. I think I will stick with it while I rebuild the original box... then decide which one I prefer...
  13. Hi Graham - no, I have not looked yet, but will definitely do that. Only issue with pressing the Vanguard plate into the TR plate is that I would be concerned that it would just fall out again... it is also cast iron instead of Aluminium. I have had some ideas for how I could come up with something that would be pressed in place by the spring and so no risk of falling out, so that may be a way forward. That TR overdrive did pretty well for many years without the dowel. I wonder if it is only necessary during assembly.... spring pressure may keep everything in one place once it's all tightened up? I did notice that the TR springs protrude much further than the Vanguard spring... the Vanguard spring has very little pressure on it when the plate is pressed 'home'. I wondered if that was the reason it needed the little dowel and the TR one didn't... but it looks like the TR one is just MIA! Thanks for your input!
  14. Thanks John - so my TR solenoid mounting plate does NOT have the locating dowel... just a hole in the plate where a dowel may once have been. This suggests that maybe I should be looking at some way of re-inserting a dowel before I use this plate on the Vanguard o/d. I wonder what happened to the old one?!
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