TRbeginner Posted November 10, 2013 Report Share Posted November 10, 2013 Hi all As part of a rear suspension/brakes overhaul, I removed the drive shaft assemblies without problem from the trailing arm and diff housing. The splines on the inner end of one trailing arm were damaged (see image attached) - each spline contains a couple of 'dings' which seem to occur in matching pairs. I have the following questions : Has anyone seen anything similar to this before? Is this typical of the damage cause when a drive shaft pulls out when the car is moving? It doesn't look like it is to my (albeit inexperienced) eye. A friend of mine (ex TR2/4a professional restorer) suggested that the dings may have be made deliberately (matching pairs) to remove the play on a loose set of splines - any thoughts on this? Do I risk further damage by using a file or slipstone to attempt to repair the splines or am I best leaving as they are and refitting, or indeed replacing with new? Any light shed on this topic would be appreciated. Thanks David Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rob Salisbury Posted November 10, 2013 Report Share Posted November 10, 2013 Deliberate dings to remove shaft clunks temporarily ... ( to move the car on maybe?), ... no way this damage can be repaired, the shafts are now junk in terms of longevity, there is a wide choice of new shafts depending on how long you intend to keep the car and how deep your pocket is, sorry. Cheers Rob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TRbeginner Posted November 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 10, 2013 Rob Thanks for quick reply....you're suggesting that they ARE deliberate rather than caused by mechanical wear/breakage? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted November 10, 2013 Report Share Posted November 10, 2013 I agree with Rob. Those are man made bodges. Sadly they're not reclaimable now. Proptech in Kidderminster is a good source of high quality replacements at very reasonable cost. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted November 10, 2013 Report Share Posted November 10, 2013 Agree, akin to sawdust in the diff oil etc afraid replacement required. Mick Richards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted November 10, 2013 Report Share Posted November 10, 2013 I agree with Rob. Those are man made bodges. Sadly they're not reclaimable now. Proptech in Kidderminster is a good source of high quality replacements at very reasonable cost. Seconded on the Proptech shafts, their uprated shafts are excellent. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TRbeginner Posted November 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 10, 2013 Guys Really appreciate your help with this...its been a bit of an eye opener...seems to be a unanimous verdict. Sort of disappointing. I was sceptical when my mate mentioned deliberate damage, but you have all backed him up. One more question....the other side is in good nick, so can I get away with buying one or do they only come in pairs? Thanks D Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alec Pringle Posted November 10, 2013 Report Share Posted November 10, 2013 (edited) Hi David, yes it is disappointing, but I'm afraid the general cynicism is well founded - it's an old dodge, favoured by Barbary Motors and Kerbside Autos, along with Trip'em 'n' Rip'em TR specialists. I'd also drain the diff and inspect carefully if I was you . . . . . You might for now find a decent used shaft for notalot if you ask on here, and then replace the pair with Proptech items when needed in due course ? Cheers Alec Edited November 10, 2013 by Alec Pringle Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR Mitch Posted November 11, 2013 Report Share Posted November 11, 2013 Man made damage, I agree, but look at it this way, the shafts must have been worn in the first place and the bodge could have been there for some time. You're in the process of fettling the car and you may have treated yourself to new drive shafts in any case. There are plenty of choices, including uprating the shafts and hubs from original spec. Search the whole forum (to include the TR6 and tech sections since the forum got moved around recently) for "drive shafts" and you'll find plenty of information and experiences. I changed mine for Richard Good items which quietened the car down hugely. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted November 11, 2013 Report Share Posted November 11, 2013 Hi David, replace both shafts at the same time as and when you get round to it. You will hear when it is due. When you re-install the hubs use new nyloc nuts. The old ones will not grip adequately and may unscrew and cause serious problems. The new drive shafts will require new UJ's. Is this something that you can do. Have you been in touch with your local group (Red Rose). They are a big group and may have members that can provide help/info. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
littlejim Posted November 11, 2013 Report Share Posted November 11, 2013 Blush! Suspect I would have dremelled them back to being flush and put them back in. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
harrytr5 Posted November 11, 2013 Report Share Posted November 11, 2013 Come across quite a few bodges but this is a new one on me.Thanks for showing us and I agree (for what it is worth) with others replace with new as soon as. Regards Harry. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted November 11, 2013 Report Share Posted November 11, 2013 Hi Harry, it is not a bad bodge but not done very well and certainly not enough raised points to do any long term good. Quite often loose fitting spindles/shafts are knurled to increase the diameter for a tight fit. Horses for courses, sadly the drive shafts were on the wrong course. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Davidw Posted November 13, 2013 Report Share Posted November 13, 2013 Frankly, I am horrified that anyone could be so unethical. If you consider the time this must have taken, why not just replace while they're out? I had always rather naively assumed that enthusiasts moving a car on would be honest about it (because both the POs of my TRs were). Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Stanpartmanpartwolf Posted November 14, 2013 Report Share Posted November 14, 2013 I just wonder what kind of warped mind would come up with such a cheap trick. I'd check the propshaft too, in case its splines are full of Araldite or welded together. Let us pray that the PO didn't find any crankshaft wear... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alec Pringle Posted November 14, 2013 Report Share Posted November 14, 2013 Come on Jon, there was a time when dodges like that were the only means by which we could afford to keep our cars on the road . . . . . Cheap tricks were the only ones within our budgets. Anyway, I've done far worse in my youth . . . . and I'm damn sure that makes two of us . . . . Cheers Alec Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mark69 Posted November 20, 2013 Report Share Posted November 20, 2013 (edited) Reading classics monthly last night ( Richard and John's tr3 rather nice) anyway getting back to topic in hand there's an article towards the back Clunk click every trip Yes you guessed it drive shafts!! So my question is why should the drive shaft whe removed needs be fitted in the exact same position when refitted ?. They marked the flanges between diff and shaft with paint so they could be realigned. I carnt see why this is important. Mark. Edited November 20, 2013 by Mark69 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted November 20, 2013 Report Share Posted November 20, 2013 Hi Mark, when they were first assembled all the mating surfaces were nice and flat and fitted together well. Even so a small amount of wear takes place to knock off any high spots. This process however produces its own wear marks/pattern. If you disassemble and reassemble in a different position you will now have new non-mating high spots. These will wear quickly because of the point contact until there is a uniform large contact area. This extra wear may make the splines un-usable. I'm sure that some of the drive shafts in the past had a master spline that only allowed a fixed location. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mark69 Posted November 20, 2013 Report Share Posted November 20, 2013 Sorry Roger It's not the splines there matching up, it's the flanges that joins diff to shafts. Once bolted together how can they wear?. Mark. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted November 20, 2013 Report Share Posted November 20, 2013 Hi Mark, I really wish that I had read the question properly first If the complete drive shaft was taken off and then refitted with no other work or breakdown then I agree with you. I can't see the need to fit exactly as it came off. It wouldn't affect balance, and all the contact faces, causing wear, would be in the same place. Most odd. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
littlejim Posted November 21, 2013 Report Share Posted November 21, 2013 On drive shafts I've played with I've seen signs of little weights welded on somewhere along the length, which I take to mean somebody has put them there for dynamic balance. I always put a mark on them when dismantling and line the marks up when re-assembling. Don't know enough to do otherwise. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steves_TR6 Posted December 4, 2013 Report Share Posted December 4, 2013 Hi Guys. Took my TR6 into Rees Bros in Aldershot for a look over today, well more of a look under ! I've noticed a slight driveline clock, which we traced to the splines on the right hand drive shaft. Spoke to Proptech this afternoon, they're 'making up a batch presently' So I'll get a set of those in a week or so, cost is a very reasonable £110 plu vat and posting per side. My question: Should I replace / upgrade the hubs at the same time?? I've not found a reasonably priced 'upgrade' hub, has anyone anything to recommend ? Seems like a good idea to renew the entire rear driveline whilst I'm doing the drive shafts? Regards Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted December 4, 2013 Report Share Posted December 4, 2013 (edited) Hi Guys. Took my TR6 into Rees Bros in Aldershot for a look over today, well more of a look under ! I've noticed a slight driveline clock, which we traced to the splines on the right hand drive shaft. Spoke to Proptech this afternoon, they're 'making up a batch presently' So I'll get a set of those in a week or so, cost is a very reasonable £110 plu vat and posting per side. My question: Should I replace / upgrade the hubs at the same time?? I've not found a reasonably priced 'upgrade' hub, has anyone anything to recommend ? Seems like a good idea to renew the entire rear driveline whilst I'm doing the drive shafts? Regards Steve Steve http://www.racetorations.co.uk/page95.html AXL104 You wont break them. Stuart. Edited December 4, 2013 by stuart Quote Link to post Share on other sites
freojohn Posted December 5, 2013 Report Share Posted December 5, 2013 (edited) Hi Steve, I recently upgraded my rear hubs with a set from Goodparts...http://www.goodparts.com/shop/index.php?ukey=home Very impressed with both the quality of the product, and the service from Mr. Good. You can see the before/after picture below... Cheers, John Edited December 5, 2013 by freojohn Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steves_TR6 Posted December 5, 2013 Report Share Posted December 5, 2013 (edited) Thanks Stuart and John. I like the look of both, but they're pricey! Do i really need to spend circa £500-1000 on a pair of hubs? I don't mind spending money where it's needed but this seems excessive for a road car, even a quickish one. The Richard Good ones look better value, but it expect there will be import duties/vat to add? Thoughts welcome, Steve Edited December 5, 2013 by SDerbyshire Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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