Ian Vincent Posted November 25, 2013 Report Share Posted November 25, 2013 Hi Michael, you are right about welding galvanised steel. The zinc gives off fumes that give flu like symptoms if too much comes your way.. . Roger The old timer's trick is to drink a pint of milk before welding galvanised steel - don't ask me if it works or not. Rgds Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MichaelH Posted December 2, 2013 Report Share Posted December 2, 2013 What happening? Michael Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted December 2, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 2, 2013 Not a lot of movement on the TR4 recently as I've been looking at a couple of other problems. I needed a piece of steel tube apprx 30mm diameter with a 0,032" wall thickness. Couldn;t find any anywhere. So as it was a short length (apprx 2") I decided to make my own from sheet. The initial example looked good but it wouldn;t fit into the jig I had knoocked up. More tapping and fettling got the tube to fit the jig fairly well. So I can now make tubes but my 2" pipe took most of the afternoon. My search for tube goes on. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted December 2, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 2, 2013 Hi Michael, the bonnet hinge support plate is now fitted with no trouble with the fumes. I didn;t succomb to the flue like symptoms nor did I drink a pint of milk. However I can imagine extended exposure could play havoc. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bullitt Posted December 4, 2013 Report Share Posted December 4, 2013 hi roger.....I'm a new member.....hardly know how to use the forum ....not a mechanic and recently bought a pile of rust that is roughly the same shape as a TR4....it will be my first restoration project and am starting to think that I may have bitten off more than iI can chew as the saying goes.As you are restoring one yourself I was wondering if I could pick your brains.. I want to take the body off and concentrate on one section at a time.....question is ..did you have a procedure you followed generally speaking.i.e...remove all bolt on panels and bumpers etc..brace the door appertures..lift it off and put it on a dolly...may sound stupid but a bit worried I completely bu**er it up..many thanks..... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted December 4, 2013 Report Share Posted December 4, 2013 hi roger.....I'm a new member.....hardly know how to use the forum ....not a mechanic and recently bought a pile of rust that is roughly the same shape as a TR4....it will be my first restoration project and am starting to think that I may have bitten off more than iI can chew as the saying goes.As you are restoring one yourself I was wondering if I could pick your brains.. I want to take the body off and concentrate on one section at a time.....question is ..did you have a procedure you followed generally speaking.i.e...remove all bolt on panels and bumpers etc..brace the door appertures..lift it off and put it on a dolly...may sound stupid but a bit worried I completely bu**er it up..many thanks..... That does depend on how good or bad your shell is. If the floors and sills are completely gone or about to then its easier to just cut the shell in half and remove each section. Then you can build it up again from new floors. If its not too bad then yes remove the outer panels and then brace across the door apertures and maybe across between the "A&B posts as well just to make sure then lift it off. You will need to make sure your chassis is sound and then use that as your jig to build it back up again. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted December 4, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 4, 2013 Hi Bullit (have you got a fore name), Welcome to the forum. thankfully Stuart got in before me. Do as he says. Pop down to your local group and pick their brains - you may get some good local help. What ever you do don;t panic, don;t rush into anything. Try and make a plan - what needs doing, what can be saved etc. Some rusty things can be saved others may need replacing. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted December 5, 2013 Report Share Posted December 5, 2013 If you have some pictures you can put up we can probably help as to which is the best way to tackle it. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bullitt Posted December 5, 2013 Report Share Posted December 5, 2013 Many thanks for the advice chaps.decided on body off but cant help but think its going to be a seriously long and rocky road......enjoyable but rocky..as advised im in the process of formulating a cunning build plan and will hopefully be able to show u the results of your input at Tatton park in 2043........will post some photos when body stripped of panels etc before i lift it off......thanks again.....frank Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted December 6, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 6, 2013 Hi Frank, 2043 ! - that is nearly nine-o-clock. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bullitt Posted December 6, 2013 Report Share Posted December 6, 2013 I know is a tad optomistic roger but there it is.... iv drawn a line in the sand as they say.only death can stop me now...... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mark69 Posted December 6, 2013 Report Share Posted December 6, 2013 Hi Frank Welcome. Don't throw anything away no matter how bad it is until you have finished. Might need as a reference in the future Good luck with your project Mark. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bullitt Posted December 7, 2013 Report Share Posted December 7, 2013 thanks mark..an a serious note its really heartening to know that theres so many people on the forum that are so knowlageable and willing to advise on things however daft they may seem coming from people like me......confidence growing......spelling falling........frank Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlanT Posted December 7, 2013 Report Share Posted December 7, 2013 I rebuilt a complete basket-case that nobody else would touch. I learned every skill required as I went along except spray painting which is too smelly to get past my wife. I have only a small space to do this. Mainly I worked alone. Several times I got asked will you ever finish. I always answered "if I live long enough". Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bullitt Posted January 21, 2014 Report Share Posted January 21, 2014 does anyone have any information regarding the best method for stripping back the paint from the body/chassis etc.....i.e. blasting/dipping .....just bit concerned that the dipping method although favoured may cause problems with the paint....any advice greatly appreciated... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted January 21, 2014 Report Share Posted January 21, 2014 I usually have them blasted, the only down side being it can take a while to get rid of the blasting medium inside the box sections that have access holes but by a combination of compressed air blowing out and a small rubber pipe taped into the end of a vacuum cleaner nozzle you can usually get rid of it. Always have it primed immediately after blasting whatever even if you need to do repairs. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted January 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2014 Hi Frank, whatever method you use somebody will find fault in it. So you have to go for one , or more, and be happy with it. The various ways of paint removal are - chemical - paint stripper, Dipping, (this may be useful http://www.club.triumph.org.uk/cgi-bin/forum10/Blah.pl?m-1389444035/s-15/) Abrasive - sanding disc, scraper Thermal - various heating methods Blasting - grit, glass, soda, plastic, Garnet.............. They all work, they all have drawbacks. If going down the paintstrip route then StarChem Synstrip is very good. This can get very exciting depending on where you put the stripper. The blasting is quite messy Most of the processes need to be done under special conditions. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bullitt Posted January 23, 2014 Report Share Posted January 23, 2014 Thanks lads and after a bit of tongue in cheek research have decided on blasting but what bout this ..soda blasting...is it generally cheeper or more expensive than normal grit....and do i have to have it etch primed when done or will normal primer suffice....frank Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted January 23, 2014 Report Share Posted January 23, 2014 Soda will only remove paint and not rust. Most blasting companies offer a protective primer coat to be done right after blasting. The one I have do mine use a Red oxide type of primer that is also weldable for any repairs that may be required.. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bullitt Posted January 26, 2014 Report Share Posted January 26, 2014 Hi stuart. thanks for reply... dont suppose you,v heard of any reputable companys in yorkshire have you...notice your in cornwall. im in bridlington just north of hull ... could work out a tad expensive if i was to comptemplate sending it down your neck of the woods....and the red oxide primer, is that better or just different to acid etch primer....by now your probably starting to get a handle on how little i actually know bout this sort of thing........cant let embarrassment stand in the way of progress tho eh.........frank... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted January 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2014 Hi Frank, have you spoken to your local group; they should lnow most things locally. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted January 26, 2014 Report Share Posted January 26, 2014 Hi stuart. thanks for reply... dont suppose you,v heard of any reputable companys in yorkshire have you...notice your in cornwall. im in bridlington just north of hull ... could work out a tad expensive if i was to comptemplate sending it down your neck of the woods....and the red oxide primer, is that better or just different to acid etch primer....by now your probably starting to get a handle on how little i actually know bout this sort of thing........cant let embarrassment stand in the way of progress tho eh.........frank... The best all round red primer for chassis and panels is this. http://www.autopaint-pro.co.uk/1l-bonda-rust-primer-121-p.asp Available in every size from aerosols to 2.5 ltr. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BrianC Posted January 27, 2014 Report Share Posted January 27, 2014 Stuart: Is that essentially the same as, or an updated version i.e. plus zinc) of the old 'Bondaprimer' ? Two of my TRs spent a few years in a 'camourflage' scheme of Green and Bondaprimer during the days of rolling rebuilds. Excellent stuff. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted January 27, 2014 Report Share Posted January 27, 2014 Stuart: Is that essentially the same as, or an updated version i.e. plus zinc) of the old 'Bondaprimer' ? Two of my TRs spent a few years in a 'camourflage' scheme of Green and Bondaprimer during the days of rolling rebuilds. Excellent stuff. Basically yes. Ive been using it for years and it works very well. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted April 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 17, 2014 Hi Folks, the weather has warmed up, the sun is shining and it is not raining - I'm back. Last year I left you on tenter hooks wondering what the hell I'm doing. Having painted the body I then decided to attack it with an angle grinder and welding machine. The repair plate for the bonnet hnge area over-wintered in its grey primer - kept nice and dry. During the dark, cold wet winter months I was not hibernating like a hedgehog but out busy trying to work out how and when to paint the repaired area. It is for the most part out of sight so throwing a bucket of paint over it would probably have worked - but I haven;t got a bucket. The choices were use an aerosol of pretend 2K paint, brush paint 2K or use a small spray gun with 2K. - see the other post about brush painting 2K paint. Anywho to cut a long story a bit longer I brush painted the area. The first coat went on quite well but would need some rubbing down before the next coat. I have a good brush but it cannot compensate for the idiot holding it. Having brush painted it I then decided to have a play with the gun. Straight out of the box it gave a very good finish on a test panel - I was very impressed. So, today I will rub down the brushed first coat and then give it a go with the gun. I had a crazy thought sometime this morning, during the period when your eyes open but your brain is not quite engaged, about fitting a new inner wing. Had a look on the Moss site for costs - I'm still recovering. The inner wing is £350. It is a simple one piece pressing, it could be hand made without too much hassle. I wonder if it fits? Anyway, thankfully I don't need it. When the paint is dry the bonnet/hinge can be fitted and who knows what will happen next week. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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