stuart Posted November 13, 2013 Report Share Posted November 13, 2013 Roger make sure that you get the hinge support plate back on in exactly the right place as otherwise you may find that there isnt enough adjustment on the hinge mounting holes to compensate. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MichaelH Posted November 13, 2013 Report Share Posted November 13, 2013 Cut out the "wrong rusty bits" and weld in a new bit. Nobody can see it, and when its done and straight you know it is strong, better to do it before its painted That what I call going backwards, unbelievably infuriating Bon chance Michael Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted November 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 13, 2013 Hi Michael, your pic looks very familiar. Hi Stuart, getting it in the right place is a must. I will weld in place after a trial fit of the bonnet. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MichaelH Posted November 14, 2013 Report Share Posted November 14, 2013 While you're at it why don't you make the front panel removable? The grill bit and the lower front valance are only held in place by the welding to the front inner wing and the outer wing is speed bolted to the lower front valance /inner wing. There is a filler piece which hooks behind the wing and is bolted thru the inner wing which hold the upper grill and outer wing together. Then you speed bolt the outer, inner wing and the loer front valance together It will lose all its strength I hear you say, but the front panel is supported by the front bumper irons below and the stay rods at the top The advantage is that you can take the front panel off and take the engine and box out more easily I 've got a another tweek to be able to take the bonnet off more easily bit that is another tale. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nigel 628 Posted November 14, 2013 Report Share Posted November 14, 2013 That dent looks familiar, Michael...... Good idea, I will be doing this to mine as the front panel has to come off for straightening too. Nigel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted November 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 14, 2013 Hi Michael, the removable front end looks a good idea. However I don;t want to make a habit of taking the engine out. If the engine knew that removal was easy it would fail every week. I've been busy with the angle grinder this morning I hope I can get it all back together. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted November 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 14, 2013 (edited) So I have cut out the tatty metal where the nearside bonnet hinge sits. I made a new metal insert and have tacked it in place. As it was a rather complicated shape I had to make the insert bit by bit and slowly whitle it down until it fitted in the hole. It took a good couple of hours. Tomorrow I'll finish off the welding, and then paint it to match the existing finish. Roger Edited November 14, 2013 by RogerH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kiwifrog Posted November 14, 2013 Report Share Posted November 14, 2013 Roger Will the use of brickwork to fill the hole in the second photo not affect the overall weight distrabution and handling of the car ? Are you going to render the bricks before painting or leave them as a talking point ? Cheers Alan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted November 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 14, 2013 Hi Alan, firstly you must remember that bricks do not go rusty. TRiumph should have made all their cars out of bricks. Secondly I wish I had put a piece of card behind the repair. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
littlejim Posted November 15, 2013 Report Share Posted November 15, 2013 (edited) A nice bit of fettling, (lose few points for the short bottom bit.) Are you into Stuarts's lead loading? Also puzzled by the brick infill. new glasses next month. Edited November 15, 2013 by littlejim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted November 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 15, 2013 Hi Jim, my short bottom is due to the angle of dangle of the camera. Those bricks were not there when I aimed the camera. I think some Rumanians laid then the instant I pressed the button. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted November 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 17, 2013 So far good news. I did a trial fit of the bonnet and things look promising. The bonnet sits quite square in its recess. The hinges are pointing the right and there appears to be plenty of adjustment to spare. Stuarts concern regarding fitting the hinge support plate in the correct place is well founded. Trying to position the plate by eye is nigh on impossible. So I have made the holes in the inner wing slightly over sized so that the plate can go to where it is needed and when the bonnet is in the right place it can be welded in. There is adjustment at virtually all the attachments so it is important to get evrything right before permanent fixing. Tomorrow the battle continues but I feeling happy with the repair so far. Roger The pic shows the former and the hinge support plate made from it. I used 2mm galvanised mild steel. The edges have a very small lip which is easy to turn with the former. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MichaelH Posted November 18, 2013 Report Share Posted November 18, 2013 Galvanised steel isn't much fun to weld! and it needs the captive nuts welded in Michael Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted November 18, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 18, 2013 Hi Michael, you are right about welding galvanised steel. The zinc gives off fumes that give flu like symptoms if too much comes your way.. The captive nuts are now attached and the fumes were blown away. I also need to drill holes in the plate for the 'spot' welding. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlanT Posted November 18, 2013 Report Share Posted November 18, 2013 I always strip off the zinc with phosphoric acid. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted November 19, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 19, 2013 Had a play with the bonnet today. The wings are off - with new nuts and screws it is surprisingly easy to remove the wings. The bonnet is not fitting into its space very well. The is slightly skew, suggesting that the front of the car wants to move to the nearside a fraction. I removed the body/chassis bolts and the front will move a small amount but I'm not sure it is the right way to go. I need to establish a couple of things - 1-is the bonnet a rectangle (4 square sides) or is it a trapezium (only 2 square sides). 2-is the hole for the bonnet a rectangle or a trapezium. 3-With the two rear coners of the bonnet flush with the dash top panel the centre of the bonnet sits apprx 1/2" high. Is the bonnet radius too small causing the mismatch or is the dash top panel too flat - and whatever the answer - why!! I'm just poping out to buy a 4x2 sheet of 1/2" ply. This will give me a square datum to check the bonnet and its hole. In the words of Arnie - I'll be back. Roger Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted November 19, 2013 Report Share Posted November 19, 2013 (edited) Roger Just turn it upside down and measure Kitty corner Edited November 19, 2013 by ntc Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted November 19, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 19, 2013 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted November 19, 2013 Report Share Posted November 19, 2013 Roger Front right left back then front left right back they should be the same Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted November 19, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 19, 2013 Hi Neil, yes, various measurements should get a good picture of the overall shape. I shall also take measurements off the 4A as well - I can't imagine two odd shaped TRiumphs; can I Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alec Pringle Posted November 19, 2013 Report Share Posted November 19, 2013 " my short bottom is due to the angle of dangle of the camera." Er yeah right on Roger, that's the sort of remark that could get you into serious trouble !! Cheers Alec Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted November 19, 2013 Report Share Posted November 19, 2013 Hi Neil, yes, various measurements should get a good picture of the overall shape. I shall also take measurements off the 4A as well - I can't imagine two odd shaped TRiumphs; can I Roger It wouldnt be the first time I have seen one that has had a hit in one or other side at the front and it has skewed the bulkhead slightly. Can also happen when floors and sills have been replaced badly. Neil is spot on with the way to check. (Mind you dont be surprised if even a straight one measures up slightly different ) Stuart. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MichaelH Posted November 19, 2013 Report Share Posted November 19, 2013 Surely just measure corner to opposite corner, ie the diagonals across the bonnet, they should be the same for a square bonnet (or rectangular), same for the hole Michael Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted November 19, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 19, 2013 Hi Michael, indeed. You can't defeat TRig'. I shall be TRiging tomorrow. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted November 23, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 23, 2013 (edited) Tomorrow came and went as did a number of other tomorrows. Things get in the way. On Thursday I parted company with my Saab 9.5. I liked my Saab, but I had to call it a day. It was costing more and more money to keep it running. What a nice car though. I'm now waiting for the nice steady Astra to turn up. Anyway back to the TR4 story. I've been having fun trying to fit the bonnet. I've adjusted all the adjustable bits. I've re-made all the re-makable bits and have had harsh words with the little bugger in general. But, it wasn't fitting. Today I waggled a few bits, had a fiddle here and a fiddle there and it fitted. It looked OK. I'm sure when the wings are fitted properly and with a lick of polish it will look spot on. So why didn;t the little sh*t fit the other day - don;t ya just love 'em. Next week I'll finish off the bonnet/wing fitting and put some paint on a few odd paint chips. One of my London Group chums had an interesting event in his 4A. The engine started making some knocking noises. He slowed down, there was a loud bonk and the engine stopped. The starter wouldn't turn it over. The first diagnosis suggested a broken crank - lots of ££££ signs. Dropped sump found that the #3 big-ends had worn so much that one shell slipped around and jammed between the other shell and the journal - seized. Hopefully a regrind should sort it but things to look at before that. Roger Edited November 23, 2013 by RogerH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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