RobH

Possibly oil-pressure related. Firstly is the gearbox oil level OK? Secondly is the overdrive sump filter clean ? (it's under the rectangular plate on the bottom but you have to drain the oil ). It could also be the solenoid but if the fault clears after a while that is less likely.

Yes but it doesn't hurt to connect both in parallel - I added a note about that to the end of my earlier post so perhaps you didn't see it:

The european method is to rate cable by its cross-section of conductor rather than AWG equivalent size. It tells you how many strands there are and what diameter. 14/0.30 means 14 strands of 0.3mm diameter each, and overall 1.0mm^2 cross sectional area of copper, rated at 8.75 Amps maximum continuous current. Table: https://issuu.com/la-distribution/docs/automotive_cable

This is what is inside, Alan - though in your case the wire to the switch is green/brown. With no connection to terminal 1 the motor can run continuously if there is an earth getting to the left hand motor brush (LH as drawn that is), so that includes the motor terminal, the link wire, the parking switch and any wires in between.

It sounds as though the auto-parking contact in the motor is 'made' to earth all the time Alan. ( Power to the motor should not come through the voltage stabiliser - that is used just as a convenient connection point for switched-live on the power connection to the stabiliser - B terminal. The same point also feeds the heater fan and indicators ) The DR3A usually has connection to the self-park switch by the red wire running on the top of the gear housing. If yours is like this make sure that the connection to the tag isn't also touching the metal body and that it isn't earthing whe

Yes unless you want to change the lot - in which case do it off the car because you have to exercise the lever arm to get rid of air. https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/tools-consumables/consumables/lubricants/other-lubricants/dynolite-shock-absorber-oil-1-litre-ggl832110.html

The system doesn't 'need' an overflow bottle or another header. It is designed to have air in the top of the radiator and filler neck which.contains any expansion. There should be no overflow if the radiator isn't over-filled. There really is no benefit from using it full with an external catch bottle but that is how later cars were arranged and some people feel happier with it that way - perhaps because it is a more familiar arrangement.

PWM is one way to do it if the LED lamp is a simple one with no internal brightness- control chip but is by no means the only way. Current control is just as 'proper' since luminous intensity is almost linear with current. A series resistor is considerably cheaper than a PWM controller. (I would agree with Bob that using a 10Amp PWM unit on LEDs drawing a few mA is certainly overkill ) PWM has its own drawbacks. The fact an LED has instantaneous response means there can be problems with 'strobing' of moving objects if the PWM frequency is too low. Sometimes this is noticeable when

This old thread has some photos that might help:

Yes it's the same for me John.

Not sure whether this qualifies for the thread. Its a Seal bike which is driven from the side-car.

Did you measure that with the wire disconnected from the alternator? I'm getting a bit doubtful about all this as there is a chance for something to go very wrong and cause damage or even a fire unless you are careful as there is no fuse in the battery connection to the alternator. If what you say is correct and the ignition lamp really was working before, then whoever installed the alternator must have fiddled with the wiring in a non-standard way so the colours on the small connection are not right. If that thin wire is really live all the time it may be part of the original

You don't need to photograph them - you can download them already in PNG or JPG format like the one above. https://www.freepngimg.com/png/85280-emoticon-emotion-samsung-iphone-galaxy-emoji

Ah - OK. That is a Lucas ACR pattern alternator. The continuity tests you are doing are finding return paths through equipment in the car which is why it looks as though the positive lead goes to earth. It is not a meaningful reading. You say the reversing light works - which is an indication that the battery is OK but more than that depends on where it is connected and whether it is switched by the ignition switch. The fact the oil light comes on with the ignition shows there is power to the switch and that the switch is working. It should also feed power to the ignition light

That's because it is a worm drive. You can't drive them backwards.

I take it this is a single-speed DR3 motor. The high current is probably due to the motor being 'stalled' - as it runs it develops a back-emf which reduces the current but without that there is only the DC resistance of the armature winding. If not mechanically stuck, it could be that the field winding is disconnected in some way. The armature will still pull a high current but the motor will not rotate. You could check that by lifting one of the brushes - the high current should drop but there should still be a small current taken by the field. If there is no current the field is op

It isn't exactly clear to me what you are doing with these 'continuity' tests nor why you are doing them. Depending on what you are using to do the measurement you may get all sorts of weird results, because everything is connected to everything else in some way and an over- sensitive meter can show connection where the path is rather tenuous. The best instrument for electrical fault-finding on a car is a small 12v bulb with wires attached. You say there is 'no switching from the relay' - what relay is that? Do you mean the starter solenoid? It's also not clear what type of

Welcome to the forums Shaun. No doubt someone will be along soon with an up-to-date answer but in the mean time there have been several discussions about this colour in the past as a forum search will show, e.g. : - (click on the arrow top right to see it)

Wish I was that energetic !

It's a bit late now to point out that you should have labelled them before you disconnected Richard ! Black is earth, green is probably the indicator lamp and red is the side-light. I expect red goes to red and green goes to green/white at the connectors near the RH horn.

It is counter-intuitive but there is really no danger from electrics being inside the petrol tank as long as here is liquid petrol in there too. I have posted this before: Liquid petrol itself does not burn so although it sounds completely wrong, immersing electrics in petrol is really quite safe. it's the vapour that is flammable but that is only over a very restricted range of fuel/air mixes - 1.4 to 7.6 % petrol to air by volume or thereabouts. Usually the vapour concentration in the tank is very much greater than that so there is no risk of fire from the sender. The parti

...or a UK source : http://www.repairkitsuk.com/kit-details/

It's tight Rob. Depends on how much clearance you have between the bell-housing and the bulkhead. I could just get a reversed thin spanner in there on my car and move the nut one flat at a time, but yours may be different. I think some people even resort to making an access hole in the transmission tunnel which allows a socket with long extension to fit- perhaps your car already has one since the PO must have fitted the starter in the first place? When replacing the motor on some you can reverse the front plate, so the stud is at the bottom.

As long as it isn't actually a Boojum.

Powerlite so probably an RAC 102. https://www.powerlite-units.com/high-torque-starter-motors.html The cylindrical thing on the top is another solenoid, which throws the pinion into gear and at full travel 'makes' an internal high-current contact to power the starter itself. There have been instances of the internal contacts failing, the pinion getting damaged and the external link wire failing. I believe Powerlite are good at providing spares and support. edit - Snap!