BlueTR3A-5EKT

The Clear Hooters 3 terminal wiper switch for TR5 is pretty much unique. I think It was also used on contemporary GT6 mk 2 I have never found a Lucas replacement switch with 3 terminals with the same internal connections as the TR5/250 rocker switch does. The US recall on Triumph wiper switches only offered the 4 terminal Lucas item, suitable for TR6 and the later 14w motor. There is/was a wiring diagram floating about that describes how to use a TR6 switch with 4 terminals with the 3 wire wiper motor in a TR5/250. Someone may have it and post

Do you have one of these?

It exists. There was one on my TR2. The stay is part no 108480. Held at each end by hexagon headed 10/32 unf screws and nuts.

Yes that is correct arrangement. Lucas 41219 distributor. There is a blank end where the vacuum capsule could be. The knurled nut works in an identical way to those Lucas distributors with a capsule, it will advance or retard the points base plate when turned.

There is a square steel plate above the pedals inside the car that is held on by 4 self tapping screws. Remove it and you can get at the master cylinder attachment bolts from inside the car, with a socket on an extension.

That looks like an on/off two position switch not a spring loaded passing contact momentary type of switch, which is needed for Roger’s unit.

I am in experiment mode Have just ordered a couple of momentary type toggle switches that may fit the pear shaped overdrive switch housing on a TR3A, in a better way than the SPDT micro/mini switch I have currently fitted. It has an adult toggle to operate compared to the micro/mini switch.

A couple of questions for you Are you concerned about the noise and that it may harm your engine? How much is another oil filter? Buy one and shake that? Alternatively…..How much is a crank re grind plus shells? If I doubted the filter I would replace it for peace of mind If when the new replacement arrives and it too makes the same rattle, you can put the new filter on the shelf and leave the one you noted as rattling fitted to the car.

‘Beat me’ begged the masochist. ‘No!’ Replied the sadist menacingly.

For sale New but scruffy Spitfire or GT6 RH inner front wheel arch. Could be a Steelcraft panel rather than StanPart as it has no label attached. Can be used for its original purpose or hacked to be used to repair a TR £35.00. Plus what ever carriage is if not collected. PM if interested.

As does the current mayor of London, unless he can work out how to shove his hand in the owner’s pockets.

We have two Dovre multi fuel stoves. Both have to be above a certain efficiency to satisfy the clean air zone we live in. They are both certificated to prove this. https://dovre.co.uk We too have stove top fans bought from Lidl at about £20 each and a thermometer to confirm it is all burning hot enough. Both chimneys are flue lined and the installations were completed by HETAS approved installer. I reduced the grate size this year on our 7 kw stove using fire bricks as advised by the maker as the stove threw out too much heat for the room size. It is bordering on tropical!

Let us not forget Thames Water.

I’ll be watching EBay closely for the Moss and Rimmers inventory sell down sale. Some creamy now irreplaceable slow moving stock could hit the sales floor at knock down prices, Unless the bean counters conclude dumping the stock in the bin is a cheaper option……would not be the first time that happened. Unipart used to do it regularly and some lovely Triumph parts went for sale at scrap prices. It was the quick action by the TR specialist that saved the stuff that could not feasibly be remade. Think TR6 crankshafts and blocks here.

Hi Max, Not a supplier I know. Good to read you have an established relationship with a supplier you trust.

Yes lowered fuel level to stop frothing and overflowing, is what I was told years ago by the man operating the rolling road in Mitcham. They had a dyno with a red line at 300 BHP so there was not going to be an issue for my friends TR2 on Webers.

I sold a lot of my other DC4 engine (P&W Wasp etc) tools to a man who restores ‘war birds’ He was more than chuffed at being able to get the unique tools for certain engine repair tasks. Bit like finding an old Triumph dealer with a cupboard full of Churchill tools.

Agreed also. I found benefit in leaving the axle in the car when using the tool. You then have the axle shaft supported. Ohh and take the washer out from under the nut or you do not know the taper has separated. Fitting a short length of the correct diameter steel rod in the split pin hole or the force on the end of the shaft wilt deform it.

Please could you post the dimensions you used so those that come later will benefit?

I've got one like that for fitting piston engine cylinders on a DC4 engine.

Excellent solution for fitting worn drums to new shoes if you have access to the machinery and measuring tool. I have measured the new original shoes I have. The 9" x 1.75" (rear ones) have 4.8 mm of friction material The 10" x 2.25" (front ones) have 4.7 mm of friction material. So...Your 5 mm suggestion is not a long way off. Where are you Max and who would you buy your spares from normally?

Is this a view of the taper collar from the other side of the car against the other drive flange hub and taper collar? The drive flange hub has the taper collar fitted in it and needs removing before you refit the drive flange hub. The splined collar or collet is designed to grip the half shaft spline as the axle nut is tightened. Note that the torque setting for that nut increased when a later type of nut was fitted.

...and the extra peg gets close to or touches the sidescreen?

Is this car a TR4 with a rigid axle or a TR4A with wobbly rear axle? If the latter Roger has stated correctly above. if TR4 then a couple of issues pop up. 1. when did the grease nipple behind the axle hub flange get pumped full of grease? Might just have been over lubricated. 2. The end float of the axle shafts needs checking and correcting. Jack up both sides and push/pull one side. The movement in total should be 0.004-0.006 inch That’s a couple of hair’s thickness, so not felt by hand. 3. The outer hub seal needs renewing - not a simple task as the drive fla

Terri Ann’s info is in the link http://www.tr3a.info/WeberDCOEinfo.htm What we do know is TR engines need the float set lower than the super smooth moderns like Ford et al as they do shake about causing frothing etc.