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Everything posted by Lebro
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Back in2013 I stuck these self adhesive sound deadening pads to the bonnet. still on, & have not deteriorated to any extent Bob
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I must be lucky, I can get a spanner on it (in the standard upper position) from the engine side. But I do have a T2000 gearbox, which has pushed the engine forward a bit. Click on to enlarge image Bob
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I tear ot pages of interest, & recycle the rest Bob
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Not just you Bob
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Need to make sure the gear has the correct No. of teeth. 9 for the early flywheels (with a shrink on ring gear) or 10 for the later bolt on gear. It's easier if you have the standard exhaust manifold, getting a spanner on the nut / bolt on the gearbox side can be challenging. Have you checked the cable connections to the motor, & the earthing braid. may be worth doing a voltage check of: 1) the battery direct, when cranking (coil disconnected so it doesn't start) 2) on the starter motor direct (terminal & case) if a large difference between the two, then the wi
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Yes, that's correct. Bob
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Original top Original base Repro top Repro base The screws are tapered, & when screwed right the way in they trap the wire between the tapered side of the screw, & the tapered base of the hole. A quick test showed that the wires were held securely. Bob
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I have a switch on the bench, I will take some photos tomorrow. Bob
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Trouble is pseudo random isn't random enough !
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Or consider incorperating my "smart" overdrive switch system. Overdrive logic circuit.pdf I can convert the switch for you if you like. Bob
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Both bonnet & boot. also the boot floor is different, it has a raised section where the spare wheel lives underneath it. This was to allow an easier fit for the spare. The Rear seat area was also quite different, being a flat platform on the post 60000 cars Bob
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But is there some slack on the clutch rod with pedal right up? Bob
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Are the copper washers on the banjo the right way round ? The one with the larger hole goes against the filter housing Bob
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That told me !! Bob
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Another common one I get lots of is "Have you seen these pictures" or similar wording, & the sender appears to be someone you know, but isn't. Bob
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I agree (nominaly) but I did this mod in 2013 before ethanol became known to cause problems, so the pipe I used would have been nothing special. It's still ok ! Bob
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Swap the cork for a suitable size of fuel pipe in the tap - worked for me for the last 11 years. Bob
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I have always been able to twist them off without touching the tags (once removed from the car) Bob
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I think you mean 14 ft Lb's
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Ah, I see it is the bell housing side ! that makes more sense now ! Bob
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I'm with Ralph here, simply blow (via a length of hose) the fuel back into the tank, that willclear (for the time being) any obstruction. I used to do this from time to time on my 1935 Hillman when it would die on me. cause was "stuff" in the tank which would block the exit pipe. finally cured by multiple draining, & flushing of the tank, & finally fitting an internal filter. Bob
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No idea why that hole would be there, the countershaft is along the bottom of the box, & there is nothing on that you would need to get to. it needs to be "bunged" up properly to prevent the oil from draining out. & No the clutch cylinder pipe should not simply pull off ! Bob
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Well done Roger, top work (I would expect nothing less) Bob
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Drilling GB top cover to fit inhibitor switches
Lebro replied to John Morrison's topic in General TR Technical
Pretty sure that when I bought a new switch inorder to add 2nd gear overdrive capability to my T2000 gearbox that it would not screw into the original threaded hole ( I swapped the switches around- can't remember why!) So opened up with the metric tap. Bob -
I have the same style of (original) tap on the block & the Red, neither leak. Bob