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Everything posted by Lebro

  1. Wot no TR's ? Great film ! Bob
  2. Just downloaded it (Android) It asks me to login, I presume this is my normal TR Register login ? it does not let me in ! Bob
  3. Same here, Aerominx leaving home for good ! Bob
  4. Any commercial led replacement bulb will not need a current setting resistor, but you would still need the 68 ohm one to start up the alternator. I have that setup, & actually I would not bother now, I would just keep the old style bulb. Bob
  5. No issue for the windings, & yes the bulb goes out when it get 12v on both sides Bob
  6. If you look at my photo above, you can just see a stud remover with serrated cam hiding in No. 1 cylinder ! (It didn't work - just ripped up the stud surface) Bob.
  7. I had huge problems getting my cylinder head off early 2020 see below: It was stuck on the stud nearest the heater tap. Eventually it came off, but I could not remove the stud, so left that one in. Later that year I stripped the engine for a re-build, & so had to remove it (out of the car now) it took three head nuts wound on as tightly together as I could & a ring spanner on the lowest one with a scaffold pipe approx 4 ft long over the spanner. I was convinced the stud would break, but it eventually unscrewed. I hate to thing what torque I was putting on it. so for yo
  8. Great photos, did you bump into Don Hiscock by any chance ? he was there. Bob
  9. Well at least it will sell Bob
  10. Tjat suggests that the movement is driven by a stepper motor. Bob
  11. Still can't think why you would need a permanant feed, could one of the wires be for illumination ? Bob
  12. Something like this ? https://www.amazon.co.uk/Dashboard-Instrument-Panel-Holder-B8-5D/dp/B07HPCWBJQ/ref=asc_df_B07HPCWBJQ/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=310746095651&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=2967200491076404787&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1006861&hvtargid=pla-696897890619&psc=1 Bob
  13. White would normally be switched, unfused ignition feed, but as long as both white & red have +12V then it should work. Bob
  14. Lebro

    Tech CD

    Probably, I've never watched it !! Bob
  15. Lebro

    Tech CD

    Greg. I have both the TR register intro DVD, & the technicalities CD. I can copy them both & send to you (to keep) if required. No charge, just the postage. Bob
  16. replace original dimmer rheostat with a "volume control" (potentiometer) as in circuit above Bob
  17. Lebro

    Tech CD

    Will have a quick search now, & let you know if I find it. Bob
  18. Lebro

    Tech CD

    If I can find mine I can do you a copy to keep. Bob
  19. You don't really need one. The "grommets" can be flared by careful use of the right sized nut & bolt. Bob
  20. Where do plan to order the LED bulbs from ? I can recommend classiccarleds.co.uk Speak to Duncan. Bob
  21. +1 Never had a problem with these - As Rob says check the connections on the unit, check the earth is solid. Are you sure you have the right version of the flasher unit (-ve earth or +ve earth). These are the instructions I send out when ever I supply these units: Flasher unit. To fit the new flasher unit, unplug wires from original, plug the green wire (from fuse box) onto the "X" pin, plug the green / brown wire (to the control head) onto the "L" pin, & plug the light green wire (to the pilot light) onto the "P" pin. connect the black wire from the new unit
  22. I have several of the Lidl chargers, the latest ones are red, & charge at 5 amps max, older grey ones only go up to 3A. They are excellent value for money, &, like the Ctek ones, you can leave them connected indefinately, as they automaticaly monitor the battery voltage, & adjust charge rate accordingly. Bob
  23. I beg to differ ! Bob
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