McMuttley Posted February 13, 2016 Report Share Posted February 13, 2016 (edited) After two two hours finally got the lower bolt/nut off the starter motor to test fit the Bastuck extractor. No issue, it sits well above block, so no fettling required. It does need to be clamped to sit flat across the head, however, even with the thick metal gasket, the collector sits against the block. Is this an issue ? The gaskets are quite thick, so I could pack out withasecondeach side, or is that a bit thick? It does lookrather nice and shiney ! Even with the alternator heatshield, is it still necessary to coat this bling black ? Edited February 13, 2016 by McMuttley Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted February 14, 2016 Report Share Posted February 14, 2016 Hi Austin, In my view yes. I have a very shiny Phoenix manifold that I wrapped instead of having it coated and it still gets pretty warm. I don't imagine there is a definitive answer though. Rgds Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted February 14, 2016 Report Share Posted February 14, 2016 Hi Austin, if it was me I would contact Phoenix and explain the problem in simple english. As the collector is in contact with the block how do you know that the manifold is sealed. If you have tightened it down to seal how do you know that you have not loaded the pipe welds and will they give way in the near future. You could try fettling (file/grind) the block to see if a gap can be formed. Have you got the manifold coated yet - if so that could bu99er up a replacement. If not see if they will exchange it for one that fits. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Cobbold Posted February 14, 2016 Report Share Posted February 14, 2016 (edited) ""Even with the alternator heatshield, is it still necessary to coat this bling black ? "" No. I think its best left as is. A black-painted manifold will radiate heat faster that the shiny stainless. http://physics.bu.edu/~redner/211-sp06/class23/class23_transfer.html The heat radiation varies in proportion to the emissivity of the surface http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/emissivity-coefficients-d_447.html polished stainless e = 0.075 lampblack paint 0.96 black lacquer on iron 0.875 So the heat radiated from a black painted manifold will be about 12 to 13 times faster than from polished stainless. But not much faster than weathered stainless. Peter Edited February 14, 2016 by Peter Cobbold Quote Link to post Share on other sites
McMuttley Posted February 14, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2016 (edited) Thanks guys, it is Bastuck manifold rather than Phoenix, so plain English may not be so straight forward (for both of us). I share the view in terms of whether its is sealing at the bottom if the block is pushing it out I am guessing that doubling up on gaskets is not a great ides ??? except for possibly checking at what point the extractor contacts the block ? Edited February 14, 2016 by McMuttley Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianc Posted February 14, 2016 Report Share Posted February 14, 2016 Glad to see that you have fitted a heat shield to preserve your alternator from the heat of the exhaust. Not difficult to make, or can be purchased from the likes of Revington. Ian Cornish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted February 14, 2016 Report Share Posted February 14, 2016 It definitely doesnt want to be touching the block at all, not only in terms of sealing as you wont know if its down tight but it could twist and be worse than the old smokey that you took off, I would be having words with the supplier be they in German or English it isnt right. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TriumphV8 Posted February 14, 2016 Report Share Posted February 14, 2016 Same idea, either the header will not seal or if at the edge to fit it might make a terrible noise when hitting the block under certain revs. As it is new I would send it back if old I would cut it with a grinder 90% of the diametre at the top 7 cm from the head and press the manifold away from the block and do a MIG seam again. Had to do so with my V8 manifolds that fully had to be custom made and there was limited space at several places not to touch the engine or the gearbox and not to touch the frame or the inner wing. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
re-hiker Posted February 14, 2016 Report Share Posted February 14, 2016 If you send those two Pictures to Bastuck, with a Comment in English, they will for sure be able to help you. I fitted the same System on my TR6 a few Years ago, no Problems at all. My recommendation once you got the correct Manifold, I would wrap it, Reason, you dont Need the Heat of those four Pipes in the Engine Compartment. In my case, it reduced the Temperature under the Hood betwen 50 and 60°C. If you Need Help in getting a German Text, send your English Version to me and I will translate it. Regards Robert Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted February 14, 2016 Report Share Posted February 14, 2016 (edited) We had the opposite problem with a Phoenix low port manifold last year, it cleared the block allright, but was hard up against the steering column. Fix was to give some local abuse using blowlamp, & a short length of scaffold pole, & a large hammer. Bob. Edited February 14, 2016 by Lebro Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted February 14, 2016 Report Share Posted February 14, 2016 Bob, you're a savage. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
McMuttley Posted February 14, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2016 Remember Roger, Bob has access to large tools Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Don H. Posted February 14, 2016 Report Share Posted February 14, 2016 This seems to me to be one of those parts one wants to "fit", Austin. A Bob-sized BFH, perhaps, but fit without any concerns about the manifold gasket or stressing the welds. I'd settle this with your supplier before any irreversible alterations. What's wrong with an original cast iron exhaust manifold? Not blingy enough? Not smokey enough? Not track-day enough? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Les Posted February 14, 2016 Report Share Posted February 14, 2016 Bob! What is the other end of that pipe doing? !!!!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted February 14, 2016 Report Share Posted February 14, 2016 You only need to look at the welding ,send it back. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alec Pringle Posted February 14, 2016 Report Share Posted February 14, 2016 Yes agreed, return it and require a refund - and then buy someone else's version. Cheers Alec Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JohnRoberts Posted February 14, 2016 Report Share Posted February 14, 2016 I was thinking of fitting a 6 into 2 steel manifold instead of the original cast iron. My question would there be any performance advantage. John R . Quote Link to post Share on other sites
McMuttley Posted February 15, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2016 (edited) Thanks All I will get in touch with Bastuck this morning. I tried it in place again last night and the collector part touches the block quite early and I can get a feeler gauge between the gasket and the extractor, so if I were to torque it up, it would be under some significant strain on the welds and probably still not seal. Pic of the block below. I assume that this isn't some sort of wide bodied dreamliner special ? I don't fancy grinding it away in order for a part that should fit to do so ( also I might strike oil !) Edited February 15, 2016 by McMuttley Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted February 15, 2016 Report Share Posted February 15, 2016 All looks normal to me. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted February 15, 2016 Report Share Posted February 15, 2016 Has the head been re-faced across the ports? I don't have a step like that on my car at the block/head. Maybe a previous owner was trying to reduce the effect of the ball milling of the inlet ports to reduce their diameter and promote better gas flow. Rgds Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
oldtuckunder Posted February 15, 2016 Report Share Posted February 15, 2016 Looking at a few other 3a head pictures your ports do look very set back from the edge of the block, I'm wondering if Ian has a point and the interferance you are seeing on the side of the block is because of this? Alan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
McMuttley Posted February 16, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2016 Is there such thing as a spacer? a thin 2mm one with a gasket either side might work, or even two of Revvy's thick ones, or is that just more opportunities for failure ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted February 16, 2016 Report Share Posted February 16, 2016 Looking at a few other 3a head pictures your ports do look very set back from the edge of the block, I'm wondering if Ian has a point and the interferance you are seeing on the side of the block is because of this? Alan One way f checking would be to look at the inlet ports. You should be able to see evidence of them having been ball milled out to 1 5/8" dia. If the head has been re-faced across the ports the diameter will only be 1 1/2" or something in between depending on how much has been removed. Rgds Ian Rgds Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
McMuttley Posted February 16, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2016 ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted February 16, 2016 Report Share Posted February 16, 2016 I would worry about the burning on the inlet valves. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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