TR4 chassis

[Grahamgl]

Gentlemen,

I have started the restoration of my TR 4 chassis and have had the peripheral parts painted in Black gloss. I have been reading that the chassis were painted in Satin Black .

The chassis is due to go to the painters today and could someone please tell me whether if the finish should be gloss, satin or?

Thanks

Graham

Edited June 4 by Grahamgl

[Richardtr3a]

The most important point is the rust proofing , It is probably best if the whole chassis is the same paint finish.

My 3A chassis was drilled from underneath and is pressure treated with Bilt Hamber every two years.

Good luck with your paint

Richard & B

[RogerH]

Hi Graham,

have you considered the internals I(as pointed out by Richard above

You need access holes for all the internal chambers.  Waxoyl used to be the chosen brew but is now a shadow of its former glory ( and stinks)

I like Dinitrol (aerosol with short wand) Bilt Hamber is also spot on.

If you need to cut holes do it before the painting other wise you will need to protect the cut edges.

Coat the bare metal with BondArust primer then paint with a 1K top coat.   TRy and stay clear of the 'Hard' paints as they can easily chip/flake  (2K, POR etc)

Then every two years get underneath and re-protect any scuffs etc.  easy peasy.  (dare I say it - lemon squeazy)

 

Roger

[Grahamgl]

The chassis has been worked on by Revington TR and holes have already been drilled for cavity wax injection at a later date. Need to get some plugs for the holes.

Another question, should I do the wax injection before the shell is painted and mounted or after to minimise the risk that the wax will effect the painting of the shell? Access would of course be easier before painting but I do not want risk the wax affecting the paint finish.

[Motorsport Mickey]

Satin looks good when it’s dirty, washing it off doesn’t give you COD when trying to dry the surface leaving smudges on gloss, I’d go Satin.

If you waxoyl or other anti rust treat hole edges ( other than a specialist anti rust coating) before painting you risk contaminating whatever paint process is to go over the outside. Give the chassis paint a better chance to stick there, and treat the interior for anti rust after it’s painted and dried. That’s my plan.

Mick Richards

[stuart]

I always paint my chassis with Bondaprime first and then use this chassis paint from Ken and Lyn https://www.carrestorationpaints.co.uk/product/2½-litre-black-chassis-paint/ its a synthetic paint so I use a 10% 2k hardener with it which means you can handle it after overnight drying at room temperature, its very long lasting and resistant to chips.

Stuart.

 

[Richmac]

On 6/4/2024 at 11:44 AM, stuart said:

I always paint my chassis with Bondaprime first and then use this chassis paint from Ken and Lyn https://www.carrestorationpaints.co.uk/product/2½-litre-black-chassis-paint/ its a synthetic paint so I use a 10% 2k hardener with it which means you can handle it after overnight drying at room temperature, its very long lasting and resistant to chips.

Stuart.

 

Is this paint suitable for hand painting with a brush or only spray applied please Stuart?

Thanks Richard 

[fabrice5925]

Hi Richard

i paint my frame by hand painting with a brush wtih a 2k ( without diluent)

i do this in 4 hours and it's very long time

and the result it's very good

fabrice

[ianc]

4VC's chassis was coated in 1992 with white Corroless and, once I clean off the muck (which I do occasionally !), the original white colour is still there after more than 30 years, and the coating, which is plastic, has resisted grit etcetera very well indeed.

Of course, Triumph's own automatic chassis protection system, a.k.a. oil leakage, helps preserve thisgs, too !

Why white ?  Because that's the coulour chosen originally by the Works Comps Dept to more easily reveal cracks and damage.

Ian Cornish

[stuart]

14 hours ago, Richmac said:

Is this paint suitable for hand painting with a brush or only spray applied please Stuart?

Thanks Richard 

Yes you certainly can brush paint.

Stuart.

[roy53]

In the 90's i blasted and painted my chassis in black Hammerite.

Have just taken it off and all still perfect.I know Hammerite was very 90's but the proof is there.

Since then i have had 4 chassis powder coated which looks so much nicer but i now thinking that painting avoids the possible peeling if water gets under powder coating.

Any views ????????

Roy

[stuart]

6 minutes ago, roy53 said:

In the 90's i blasted and painted my chassis in black Hammerite.

Have just taken it off and all still perfect.I know Hammerite was very 90's but the proof is there.

Since then i have had 4 chassis powder coated which looks so much nicer but i now thinking that painting avoids the possible peeling if water gets under powder coating.

Any views ????????

Roy

Painting is a better solution, if it gets scuffed you can always repaint, powder isnt the best for chassis.

Stuart.

[Ben Davies]

Agree with Stuart 100% based on recent experience. 

I bought a 3a with a powder coated chassis and a couple of areas had failed - the more I scraped the worse it got, so ended up with the body off.  In short there was hardly anywhere without some surface rust under the powder coat - even the parts where the coating looked OK. 

Fortunately it was only surface rust so I had it blasted, gave it a coat of bondarust primer (lovely stuff) and a couple of top coats of chassis black (synthetic enamel) applied with a brush.  It's been on for a couple of months now and has hardened off nicely, looks great and most importantly in my mind it'll be easy to maintain.

Once painted and dry I also used Dynax S50 to treat the inside - a messy but very satisfying job!

[PodOne]

A vote for POR15 Chassis Black.

Shot blasted and then two coats of POR. Drys to a rock solid finish just buy small tins as once opened it goes off and you will have to destroy the lid to get it off the next day that's how hard it sets. Its very durable and doesn't chip or peel. I also painted all the suspension parts with it post shot blasting.

Cavities I drilled extra holes and filled them with Bill Hamber Dynax S50 Cavity wax and turned the chassis over a few times so it ran around the internal walls. Blasting it with compressed air first pushed any loose crud out. 

Powder coat wise I had any other parts undercoated first with zinc powder coat and then while hot top coated so it fused to the zinc coat.

Andy

[iain]

As an aside. Leave the chassis waxing holes open…..allow the cavity to breath.

I prefer Lanoguard as an anti rust  wax treatment, easy to use, very durable, environmentally friendly.

[Ian Vincent]

Zinc powder coating followed by a coat of decent paint will virtually last forever. The powder coated surface provides an excellent surface for paint adhesion and if there are any chips the self healing properties of the zinc prevent corrosion spreading. 

Rgds Ian