Phil Read Posted June 12, 2023 Report Share Posted June 12, 2023 I notice in the Rimmer parts book there is a different part number for the drive shaft flange assemblies, 210979 for steel wheels and 212403 for wire wheels. Any one any idea what is different. My car had steel wheels but I have fit wires, will this create problems? As far as I am aware recon drive shafts fit both. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted June 12, 2023 Report Share Posted June 12, 2023 7 minutes ago, Phil Read said: I notice in the Rimmer parts book there is a different part number for the drive shaft flange assemblies, 210979 for steel wheels and 212403 for wire wheels. Any one any idea what is different. My car had steel wheels but I have fit wires, will this create problems? As far as I am aware recon drive shafts fit both. Different length studs. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Phil Read Posted June 12, 2023 Author Report Share Posted June 12, 2023 2 minutes ago, stuart said: Different length studs. Stuart. But the paets book clearly states "no studs included" they are listed separately. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted June 12, 2023 Report Share Posted June 12, 2023 16 minutes ago, Phil Read said: But the paets book clearly states "no studs included" they are listed separately. Yet another reason to not use Rimmers, In the Moss catalogue they both come with studs hence the price difference. Theyre the same basic hub.https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr5-6/clutch-transmission-drivetrain/drive-shafts-propshafts/propshaft-driveshaft-s-tr5-6-1967-76.html Why do you ask? Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Phil Read Posted June 12, 2023 Author Report Share Posted June 12, 2023 I ask because last year I swopped my alloys for wires. Studs are standard length as the car has spacers between the drum and adaptor. Nuts were torqued up correctly. Yesterday on the way back from Silverstone the car started vibrating very badly. I pulled into the services jacked it up and found the rear wheel moved so I thought the hub bearing had gone. When I removed the wheel I found two studs had sheared and the other two were loose on the spines. Obviously the drive flange is shot but I have a spare drive shaft so no problem, but its also ovaled the holes in the adaptor, so need a new one of those, along with studs etc. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted June 12, 2023 Report Share Posted June 12, 2023 2 hours ago, Phil Read said: I ask because last year I swopped my alloys for wires. Studs are standard length as the car has spacers between the drum and adaptor. Nuts were torqued up correctly. Yesterday on the way back from Silverstone the car started vibrating very badly. I pulled into the services jacked it up and found the rear wheel moved so I thought the hub bearing had gone. When I removed the wheel I found two studs had sheared and the other two were loose on the spines. Obviously the drive flange is shot but I have a spare drive shaft so no problem, but its also ovaled the holes in the adaptor, so need a new one of those, along with studs etc. By the sounds of that the studs may have already had some abuse before you got it i.e. wheels fitted with a rattle gun. Possibly the spacer might have exacerbated the issue.You did use the correct nuts on the adaptors I suppose? Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John Morrison Posted June 12, 2023 Report Share Posted June 12, 2023 Yes plus torqued to 65 lbs and loctited/thread locked John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waldi Posted June 13, 2023 Report Share Posted June 13, 2023 Those are “coned” nuts, iirc. I think that is what Stuart is referring to. Waldi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted June 13, 2023 Report Share Posted June 13, 2023 Problem is still why the studs sheered and the others came loose and like I said earlier as you dont know the total history of the hubs then you can never be sure that a ham fisted tyre fitter hasnt wanged them up with a rattle gun. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mike C Posted June 13, 2023 Report Share Posted June 13, 2023 3 minutes ago, stuart said: Problem is still why the studs sheered and the others came loose and like I said earlier as you dont know the total history of the hubs then you can never be sure that a ham fisted tyre fitter hasnt wanged them up with a rattle gun. Stuart. I have to ask for my wheels to he hand tightened at the local tyre shop, otherwise the tyre fitters will use their rattle guns- and they have one size of gun for cars and trucks. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted June 13, 2023 Report Share Posted June 13, 2023 .........on the other hand my garage uses an air gun to run the nuts down and then a torque wrench to nip them up. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted June 13, 2023 Report Share Posted June 13, 2023 I think I have posted before that I witnessed one tyre fitter using a torque wrench. You could hear it click - after which he leaned on it some more to make sure the nuts were REALLY tight... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted June 13, 2023 Report Share Posted June 13, 2023 23 minutes ago, RogerH said: .........on the other hand my garage uses an air gun to run the nuts down and then a torque wrench to nip them up. Roger Thats what my Tyre place does too. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted June 13, 2023 Report Share Posted June 13, 2023 3 hours ago, RogerH said: .........on the other hand my garage uses an air gun to run the nuts down and then a torque wrench to nip them up. Roger That is what my local Costco tyre fitters do too Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted June 13, 2023 Report Share Posted June 13, 2023 Even on modern cars thy still whammmm the nuts on at enormous torque and it marmalises your locking wheel nuts which only has weedy multiple radius shapes on the end to drive it . I've taken to removing the nut (by hand myself) to stop them destroying it with 250 lbs ft torque because they can't be **8sed to reset the rattle gun to a reasonable torque. Mick Richards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
trchris Posted June 13, 2023 Report Share Posted June 13, 2023 They should use torque sticks/ extension bars when they use air/battery guns then double check with a torque wrench Chris Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PodOne Posted June 13, 2023 Report Share Posted June 13, 2023 Twice being in the situation with new cars where the locking nuts were so tight that they were destroyed come tyre/brake pad change time costing me a packet to have them removed and replaced. Now as soon as I buy any car I take a breaker bar and impact socket and remove all the nuts/bolts apply copper slip and retorque. I also keep a breaker bar and socket in each car as the crappy ones the manufacture provide are a certain recipe for rounded nuts/bolts, knackered alloys and a broken ankle when you take to jumping on it when its dark and pouring with rain! Andy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted June 14, 2023 Report Share Posted June 14, 2023 So as can be seen by the above replies its not hugely surprising that youve had them sheer Phil. FWIW Cambridge Motor sports supply good quality studs. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kenrow Posted June 14, 2023 Report Share Posted June 14, 2023 On 6/12/2023 at 12:43 AM, Phil Read said: 210979 for steel wheels and 212403 for wire wheels. 212403 is NLA superseded by 210979. RB must of sold them with the corresponding studs at one time… Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.