Jonny TR6 Posted February 19, 2023 Report Share Posted February 19, 2023 Having read up a lot on plugs I went for triple electrodes. Just been out for a blast and there was a lot of spluttering, hesitation etc. I pulled the plugs and they were filthy - probably only 200 miles or so on them. Please can someone give me a definitive plug that will work well with PI with electronic ignition and save my head spinning round even further with all the opinions. Many thanks ! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nigel Triumph Posted February 19, 2023 Report Share Posted February 19, 2023 If you want multi electrode, go for Bosch WR78 or NGK BUR6ET. Both have worked perfectly over thousands of miles in my CP series TR6 and my GT6. Nigel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jonny TR6 Posted February 19, 2023 Author Report Share Posted February 19, 2023 Got the BUR6ETs in at the moment. The timing was a bit out and I suspect they’ve been the victim of too much fuel and not enough air, as the underslung throttle linkage needed some fiddling with to get it to tickover at 800rpm (had been 1200ish). What’s the best way to resurrect the existing or should I just go with different plugs. I’ve read that the ETs don’t like too much fuel. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
andyb633 Posted February 19, 2023 Report Share Posted February 19, 2023 i used to have problems with the BUR6ET plugs , they just never ran right so i tried the Bosch WR78 s and have never looked back . i am running lumenition magnetronic ignition . Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted February 19, 2023 Report Share Posted February 19, 2023 12 minutes ago, Jonny TR6 said: I’ve read that the ETs don’t like too much fuel. If they have been fuel-soaked they are probably dead. Modern plugs have unglazed ceramic which gets contaminated and cannot be cleaned successfully once wetted, as the old ones could. (Cars with modern engine management do not over-fuel so the plugs are designed for that regime now). You could try a hotter grade - 5 rather than 6 for NGKs. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jonny TR6 Posted February 19, 2023 Author Report Share Posted February 19, 2023 Useful knowledge Rob - BP5ES then ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waldi Posted February 19, 2023 Report Share Posted February 19, 2023 If your plugs fouled after limited milage, I suspect the issue is elsewhere, ignition or more likely fuel related. Waldi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mike C Posted February 19, 2023 Report Share Posted February 19, 2023 (edited) I've used BUR6ET's for years and found them excellent. If the plugs fouled after 200 miles I'm pretty sure you have a fuelling problem, and I'd start by making sure the fuel enrichment lever is not sticking and correctly adjusted. Edited February 19, 2023 by Mike C Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jonny TR6 Posted February 20, 2023 Author Report Share Posted February 20, 2023 10 hours ago, Mike C said: I've used BUR6ET's for years and found them excellent. If the plugs fouled after 200 miles I'm pretty sure you have a fuelling problem, and I'd start by making sure the fuel enrichment lever is not sticking and correctly adjusted. I did have an issue in that the air bleed screw into the inlet manifold was screwed all the way in. This probably caused the plugs to foul initially. BP5ESs on the way from Green Spark Plug Co - £14 delivered, so a cheap method of checking. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
astontr6 Posted February 21, 2023 Report Share Posted February 21, 2023 On 2/19/2023 at 3:40 PM, RobH said: If they have been fuel-soaked they are probably dead. Modern plugs have unglazed ceramic which gets contaminated and cannot be cleaned successfully once wetted, as the old ones could. (Cars with modern engine management do not over-fuel so the plugs are designed for that regime now). You could try a hotter grade - 5 rather than 6 for NGKs. +1 I have always used grade 5 after having trouble with grade 6. Cylinders 5 & 6 have never given me trouble after switching to grade 5? Are you sure that your M/U does not need re-calibrating as it must be over fueling? Bruce. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
alec Posted February 21, 2023 Report Share Posted February 21, 2023 Only buy spark plugs from a proven safe supplier many fakes on the market Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steves_TR6 Posted February 21, 2023 Report Share Posted February 21, 2023 1 hour ago, alec said: Only buy spark plugs from a proven safe supplier many fakes on the market Too right! i spent ages trying to get an old honda motorcycle to run properly after a rebuild, turns out the ‘ngk’ plugs were useless fakes! on the tr6 i use the Bosch multi electrode plugs and they have been in for years with no attention or trouble. steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
alec Posted February 22, 2023 Report Share Posted February 22, 2023 Yes I found out the hard way buying what I thought was a bargain on ebay Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jonny TR6 Posted February 22, 2023 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2023 Bought the 5s from the Green Spark Plug co via their eBay site, as fully aware of fakes ! Will pop them in at the weekend, with my 9yr old helping and learning a bit of spannering and the basics of how an engine works. Will also check the MU although it passes the vacuum suck test and was rebuilt 2,000 miles ago. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jonny TR6 Posted February 26, 2023 Author Report Share Posted February 26, 2023 New plugs in and the car runs much much better. Pulls strongly and no coughing or hesitation and idles nicely. The old plugs are in the bin. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted February 26, 2023 Report Share Posted February 26, 2023 1 hour ago, Jonny TR6 said: New plugs in and the car runs much much better. Pulls strongly and no coughing or hesitation and idles nicely. The old plugs are in the bin. We used to call old plugs ‘fishing weights’ Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Paul Hig Posted April 10, 2023 Report Share Posted April 10, 2023 Been advised by an old hand (over 40 years with TRs) that NGK BPR6ES are best for a CP TR6. Anybody else use these? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
astontr6 Posted April 13, 2023 Report Share Posted April 13, 2023 On 2/19/2023 at 3:40 PM, RobH said: If they have been fuel-soaked they are probably dead. Modern plugs have unglazed ceramic which gets contaminated and cannot be cleaned successfully once wetted, as the old ones could. (Cars with modern engine management do not over-fuel so the plugs are designed for that regime now). You could try a hotter grade - 5 rather than 6 for NGKs. I have used the hotter grade 5 for years it stopped 5 & 6 from becoming sooted up and did not affect 1 to 4 cylinders. Bruce. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mk2 Chopper Posted April 14, 2023 Report Share Posted April 14, 2023 23 hours ago, astontr6 said: I have used the hotter grade 5 for years it stopped 5 & 6 from becoming sooted up and did not affect 1 to 4 cylinders. Bruce. I use two 5's in 5 & 6 and 6's in 1 to 4, seems to be a good combination for my set up. Gareth Quote Link to post Share on other sites
KiwiTR6 Posted April 17, 2023 Report Share Posted April 17, 2023 On 4/14/2023 at 3:37 AM, astontr6 said: I have used the hotter grade 5 for years it stopped 5 & 6 from becoming sooted up and did not affect 1 to 4 cylinders. Bruce. After I disconnected the rocker cover vent from the intake manifold and fitted it with a small filter I found that cylinders 5 and 6 no longer sooted up. This was based on a comment I has read on this forum suggesting that with the standard arrangement oil mist is drawn into the two rear cylinders causing this problem. I'm convinced that the advice was indeed correct. As a teen my dad was the local Triumph dealer in our town and from time to time he would ask me to take our PI sedan for a good thrash to clear the plugs from its mostly around town running. Of course I never turned him down, and in hindsight it was probably this very same issue at play. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tom Fremont Posted April 21, 2023 Report Share Posted April 21, 2023 I've been using NGK BP7ES since the last century, over 140K miles on my '250s, one CP spec and the other with much more c/r and cam without issues. They get changed out every 30K miles whether they need it or not. These are gapped to 0.030" vs. the 0.025" as per factory. Distributor has excellent points ( STANDARD brand ), yellow wire condenser, red rotor and copper( or brass ) contact cap with solid copper plug wires. Coil is LUCAS Sport type. This is a cooler plug than any of those listed above...but then I don't have the LUCAS P.I. but Weber DCOEs instead. So this reference may be of little use or interest here! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tim D. Posted April 21, 2023 Report Share Posted April 21, 2023 3 minutes ago, Tom Fremont said: I've been using NGK BP7ES since the last century, over 140K miles on my '250s, one CP spec and the other with much more c/r and cam without issues. They get changed out every 30K miles whether they need it or not. These are gapped to 0.030" vs. the 0.025" as per factory. Distributor has excellent points ( STANDARD brand ), yellow wire condenser, red rotor and copper( or brass ) contact cap with solid copper plug wires. Coil is LUCAS Sport type. This is a cooler plug than any of those listed above...but then I don't have the LUCAS P.I. but Weber DCOEs instead. So this reference may be of little use or interest here! Suspect you do need slightly hotter plugs with lucas PI as they do tend to be set quite rich at idle to cover the lack of acceleration enrichment. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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