John Morrison Posted November 3, 2022 Report Share Posted November 3, 2022 Anyone know an easy way of cleaning fifties years of grot from original bullet connector sin situ on the car? Thinking perhaps something like Meths or Switch Cleaner and maybe an old toothbrush? John. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted November 3, 2022 Report Share Posted November 3, 2022 I would clean the bullets themselves with very fine abrasive paper, and use new sockets rather than try to clean the insides of the old ones. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ed_h Posted November 3, 2022 Report Share Posted November 3, 2022 I use a light touch to a wire wheel, and a dielectric grease on reassembly. Ed Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John L Posted November 4, 2022 Report Share Posted November 4, 2022 A useful tip from BFG here. Scroll down a bit. John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
john.r.davies Posted November 4, 2022 Report Share Posted November 4, 2022 John L, Nice of you to revive the 'fabricated tools thread' but scroll down to a BFG post? Not in the first two pages and there are more than 8 to review. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
brian -r Posted November 4, 2022 Report Share Posted November 4, 2022 Commercial switch cleaner ( Chemodex Electrosolve, Ambersil servosol 10 or similar ) plus a light rub with a fine abrasive paper or wool to clean the bulets As per Rob's advice replace the barrel connectors with new. Bri Quote Link to post Share on other sites
barkerwilliams Posted November 4, 2022 Report Share Posted November 4, 2022 II have found new barrel connectors dont grip as well as teh old so https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/144683439534?epid=1485416347&hash=item21afce15ae:g:qe4AAOSwID5i-8QW&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoAB9EhvUHc0fBZR19AyvB0l1Y8ofSoJjenE6EvKAbpwD2usmwYcPRxBdxCOmjw448rxLNHVi2PFDLkS5mqIUaXMqyoxqj9Kd%2Ft%2BDQa%2Bga3wvi2du2I74BYWR8pdnHRBW2fE0LyQsm0C%2Be7QvrorZz4WPw4EJKJh7cBTKrZmlE%2F1ldN2P6Wm3JHzo3xS%2BHv5sWohRqM%2FojOCmr85qLFu1Txk%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR7DJnquIYQ Alan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted November 4, 2022 Report Share Posted November 4, 2022 17 minutes ago, barkerwilliams said: I have found new barrel connectors dont grip as well as teh old so Funny - I've not experienced that. It isn't a cylinder, it's a coiled strip so you can squeeze them a bit tighter if they feel loose. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MilesA Posted November 4, 2022 Report Share Posted November 4, 2022 3 hours ago, john.r.davies said: John L, Nice of you to revive the 'fabricated tools thread' but scroll down to a BFG post? Not in the first two pages and there are more than 8 to review. John It's on the page to which John L's link takes you, about 1/3 of the way down. Miles Quote Link to post Share on other sites
john.r.davies Posted November 4, 2022 Report Share Posted November 4, 2022 Ah! Page 18! For some reason, the link took me to Page One! John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ed_h Posted November 4, 2022 Report Share Posted November 4, 2022 2 hours ago, barkerwilliams said: II have found new barrel connectors dont grip as well as teh old so Alan If a barrel has lost its grip, i've found it's usually because the spring steel insert has broken. Any remaining grip is coming just from the rubber jacket. I also use skinny wire brushes to clean the barrel bores. Ed Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Charlie D Posted November 4, 2022 Report Share Posted November 4, 2022 I’ve read in a couple of places over the years that if you put the connectors in a jar of white vinegar and salt, and leave them overnight, they will come up like new. It’s not too easy if there is not much spare wire before the connector, but I did give it a go once. All it did was make the loom smell like a chip shop. Don’t bother trying. Charlie Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ed_h Posted November 4, 2022 Report Share Posted November 4, 2022 1 hour ago, Charlie D said: I’ve read in a couple of places over the years that if you put the connectors in a jar of white vinegar and salt, and leave them overnight, they will come up like new. This is incredibly bad advice. The acid will eat away the plating on the barrels, and the chloride in the solution will guarantee that the bare steel will corrode. Heed Charlie's warning: Don't bother trying. Ed Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PodOne Posted November 4, 2022 Report Share Posted November 4, 2022 After 50 years the outsides can be cleaned with emery or a wire wheel to look nice but its not going to do anything for the oxidised wire crimped inside or if soldered the wire as it goes into the insulation. I would cut them off and remake the connection with a new bullet as they are cheap enough. Just buy a decent crimper its a better and quicker solution along with new spring/rubber barrels. Nothing worse than dodgy connections to have you pulling your hair out!! Probably why I have none. Andy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John Morrison Posted November 5, 2022 Author Report Share Posted November 5, 2022 Thanks all, Andy I know you are correct, and we have a new loom etc, it was just that the new headlamp fittings came with very short cables and we looked to swop these for the originals, just speeding teh job along. Cheers, John. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted November 5, 2022 Report Share Posted November 5, 2022 A good crimped joint should not oxidise under the crimp. Bare oxidised wires should not be a problem as the oxidising is only skin deep. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted November 5, 2022 Report Share Posted November 5, 2022 +1 The dark oxide layer is microns deep and has no real effect on the conductivity of the wires. The joint if properly made, either by crimp or solder, will be similarly unaffected. You just need to clean things off where you want a metal-to-metal contact. In fact if the wire strands are heavily oxidised within the insulation, which is common, you may find it difficult to get a good joint if you try to replace the bullet. Cleaning the oxidisation properly from all the strands without damaging the wire, is not easy. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ralph Whitaker Posted November 6, 2022 Report Share Posted November 6, 2022 This is more for brass lucar connectors, but it does work. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted November 6, 2022 Report Share Posted November 6, 2022 I would be very wary of doing that Ralph, as Ed says above. The solution can wick up under the wire insulation by capillary action and although he does attempt to 'neutralise' the vinegar with baking soda there is no guarantee it has all gone. The wet salt residue will still be there of course . Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stillp Posted November 6, 2022 Report Share Posted November 6, 2022 1 hour ago, RobH said: I would be very wary of doing that Ralph, as Ed says above. The solution can wick up under the wire insulation by capillary action and although he does attempt to 'neutralise' the vinegar with baking soda there is no guarantee it has all gone. The wet salt residue will still be there of course . +1 Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ed_h Posted November 6, 2022 Report Share Posted November 6, 2022 IMO, the process in the video is overthought and misguided. Purely mechanical removal of oxidation from the contact surfaces is quicker, easier, safer, and just as effective. The guy in the video also should learn to pronounce the word "oxidation". Ed Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ralph Whitaker Posted November 12, 2022 Report Share Posted November 12, 2022 On 11/6/2022 at 10:09 AM, RobH said: I would be very wary of doing that Ralph, as Ed says above. The solution can wick up under the wire insulation by capillary action and although he does attempt to 'neutralise' the vinegar with baking soda there is no guarantee it has all gone. The wet salt residue will still be there of course . It`s a bit late now, I did my entire loom with this method 3 years ago prior to re-fitting it. Nothing has failed so far. Ralph Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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