how to remove liners

[roy53]

Tips on how to remove liners with the engine still in the car please.

I know if i didn't want them to move they would just pop up.

Roy

[Lebro]

Probably best to make an extractor, use a length of studding, large (very strong) washer (or bar) at bottom end same dia as bottom of liner, & similar at top end fitted above a tube which is just bigger than the O/D of the liner. tighten nuts at both ends, (or weld a nut on one end) & it should pull out.

Bob

[stuart]

Piece of wood and a large hammer from underneath Unless theyve grown in in which case Bobs solution is best.

Stuart.

[iain]

Be prepared for an awful lot of crud to fall out…….if the crank is still in the engine it needs some careful protection.

 

[Z320]

And muddy coolant

[Mick Forey]

50 minutes ago, stuart said:

Piece of wood and a large hammer from underneath

This method worked for me. I wrapped the big end journals in rag and cling film. Stuffed rag and cling film down gaps to protect the main journals. 

A sharp tap was all that was required, going round the perimeter to get them to move upwards evenly. A bit of yukky water and crud all over me and the floor but not too bad, better than I was expecting.

2500 miles since going back together, all good so far.

Mick

[Dic Doretti]

          An aluminium drift and a lump hammer worked for me lying in the street in Glasgow many years ago but they didn't give up easily.

          Cheers

         Richard

[Motorsport Mickey]

Done this more times than I care to remember. After a couple of years inserted the liners form the opinion they are now part of the block !

I've smashed my share of liners trying to knock them out from the bottom, the liner skirts are fragile so when I started racing I made a puller set to remove the liners in situ.

The red insert is about 3/8th steel plate and the alloy plugs with the shoulders is the locating plug that goes into the end of the liner skirt. It is approx 10 thou undersize for the liners being fitted 86 or the spare plug 87mm with its outside dia being 10 thou undersize for the liner skirt bore in the block. From the top pass the threaded rod down the liner and shimmey underneath and assemble the alloy plug with the steel backing plate and various other support plates and the securing nut. Then jump up and place the large channel over the cylinder head studs which fit the slotted holes on top of small spacers on the cylinder studs, then tighten with a ring spanner and..."pop" up they come steadily and with no further damage (important if you are changing a liner in a race engine that's split after the screwdriver magnetic tip has been ingested on the rolling road during setting up...and become embedded in the piston crown...and bent the con rod...and punctured the squish on the race head scrapping it...the things you do ). I managed to reach the neighbouring field with the throw of the screwdriver when I saw the damage. I've used this tool on engines fresh from projects that were "Titanic" grade, the liners come out...undamaged.

Edited October 24, 2022 by Motorsport Mickey

[roy53]

Well all failed so engine out striped and Mick's tool made but still no movement re liners, even a helping hand of a club hammer. must have some strong adhesive 

Walked away ,will try again tomorrow .

Ideas please 

now wondering if i should just get the old liners rebored in situ

Roy

Edited November 1, 2022 by roy53

[stuart]

Pour some diesel down around the waterways and let it soak for a few days.

Stuart.

[Ian Vincent]

2 hours ago, roy53 said:

Well all failed so engine out striped and Mick's tool made but still no movement re liners, even a helping hand of a club hammer. must have some strong adhesive 

Walked away ,will try again tomorrow .

Ideas please 

now wondering if i should just get the old liners rebored in situ

Roy

What diameter is your screwed rod?  Only because I happened to have it lying around, I used some one inch diameter studding.  Something you can get a serious sized spanner on the top of.

Rgds Ian

[BlueTR3A-5EKT]

1 hour ago, Ian Vincent said:

What diameter is your screwed rod?  Only because I happened to have it lying around, I used some one inch diameter studding.  Something you can get a serious sized spanner on the top of.

Rgds Ian

I have adapted a Standard Triumph front suspension spring compressor.

[Rob Salisbury]

Just recently I've been using K2 Vulcan Penetrating Oil/Spray and found extremely successful at getting well rusted nuts and bolts to shift so it may be worth getting a couple of cans and leaving the liners to soak in it for a while.

Cheers Rob  

[Chilliman]

Roy, apart from the good advice above the only other thing probably worth mentioning is that the figure 8 gasket rings that share pots 1/2 & 3/4 respectively can sometimes act as a kind of brake ring so as you're trying to extract one pot it's being held back by it's partner in which case use your puller alternately between the two pots. I did have one very bad block where I had to do this & almost walk the two pots out as a pair. I've got a homemade puller as shown above & it's never failed yet.

Don't give up, they'll shift.

[iain]

All of the above plus some diesel allowed to soak around the liners in the water jacket area. Diesel is a fab penetrating oil. Squirt down the water ways with a syringe, leave 24 hrs and try again.

Iain

[roy53]

Diesel soak tomorrow it is then.

and a kick of corse

[Nobbysr]

Depending on what size your liners  will depend on how hard you can hit them, attached is an example of what happens to an 89mm liner.. they don't  bounce 

Annoyingly i had purchased the 89mm kit well before stripping the engine,. When i  did finally strip the engine I found  the existing 87mm liners, piston, rings etc were  in very good condition with all the honing lines clearly visible, so they will go up for sale  soon.  

Also a descent  engine builder could bore your liners in  situ so long as they  dont move,  but  clearly its  better to remove them . If the block is cleaned in a hogwash tank you may find the expansion is enough to allow  the liners to be coaxed out 

cheers

Steve

 

[roy53]

Update

i soaked in deisel for 10 days. Then with the tool i made using 20mm threaded rod and big hammer ,no movement so of to Gosnay's to have them pressed out .Again with there massive press and 24hrs in acid clean no movement and the press distroyed the bottom of the liners. So now they are going to bore them out if poss.

Have the feeling of why me as it should have been a simple quick job with engine in place liner change.  

Roy

[stuart]

1 hour ago, roy53 said:

Update

i soaked in deisel for 10 days. Then with the tool i made using 20mm threaded rod and big hammer ,no movement so of to Gosnay's to have them pressed out .Again with there massive press and 24hrs in acid clean no movement and the press distroyed the bottom of the liners. So now they are going to bore them out if poss.

Have the feeling of why me as it should have been a simple quick job with engine in place liner change.  

Roy

Blimey thats unusual, make sure theyre careful near the Fig8 steps.

Stuart.

[roy53]

Final update :

When the liners were out the block had 3 x 24hr goes in the acid treatment to remove all the crud build up and there was still some for me to remove by hand in tight corners.

To show how solid i had to hammer and chisel it out.The drain plug outlet was so solid that they had to drill it out. Thought it might have been metal but no, just a solid build up.

As this engine came from a TEXAS car which would probably meant never had any antifreeze to help prevent build up. If i ever get another sunny clim import i would certainly have it acid dipped and with a 4 cyl remove liners.

Runs loverly now 

ROY