Hamish Posted May 16, 2021 Report Share Posted May 16, 2021 I just wanted to fit an oil cooler bypass hose and go for a run to check oil temps as I think my oil is too cool with the oil cooler on and I have heat exchanger plans ........ i have this type of sandwich plate and I had to cut and butcher the barbed hose fittings to get them off. But the male 1/2 bsp adapter to the smaller threaded end into the sandwich plate came out of the sandwich plate I need the male to male adapter the 1/2bsp take the barbed hose connector but don’t know the male thread into sandwich plate and of course I can’t have a run out in the car til it’s sorted. grrrrrrrrr Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nigel Triumph Posted May 16, 2021 Report Share Posted May 16, 2021 Yep, know how that feels. And then chances are, once it's all back together, oil will still seep out somewhere. Well that's what happens to me! Just makes finally completing the job feel sweeter after knocking over the unexpected problems. Good luck, Nigel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iain Posted May 16, 2021 Report Share Posted May 16, 2021 Hi H know that feeling all too well.....I’m into day four of bleeding the clutch.........I’m no further forward. Definitely grrrr! Iain Ps I’ve tried positive pressure, vacuum on the slave, both and I still have a soft pedal on the first application. Air but it just won’t move. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Grahamgl Posted May 17, 2021 Report Share Posted May 17, 2021 Iain, Just a thought, is the bleed valve on the slave cylinder uppermost? Graham Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted May 18, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 18, 2021 (edited) Well I can tell you that the adapter reducer is not 3/8 in the oil fittings world. best guess it is a 16mm to 1/2bsp. The bsp bit is right. So one on order worst case scenario is I use the old butchered one and a lot of sealing thread lock ( it’s not a pretty sight) but the threads seem to work after a little filing. how do people know what to order thread wise when there are sooooo many options with our old car fittings course fine bsp un af whitworth bolt head size shank threaded size tapered Bamboozald from Cheshire Edited May 18, 2021 by Hamish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted May 18, 2021 Report Share Posted May 18, 2021 Brass, Gas, BA --- Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted May 18, 2021 Report Share Posted May 18, 2021 (edited) M some are traditional metric, like spark plugs Edited May 18, 2021 by Z320 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted May 18, 2021 Report Share Posted May 18, 2021 Metric fine, extra fine, coarse --- then there is castilated Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Charlie D Posted May 18, 2021 Report Share Posted May 18, 2021 (edited) Name that thread https://www.machinedesign.com/fastening-joining/article/21831622/name-that-thread Charlie Edited May 18, 2021 by Charlie D Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted May 18, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 18, 2021 i might just cross thread it and force it in. those never come out when you need them too Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted May 18, 2021 Report Share Posted May 18, 2021 Hi Hamish, I once delayed a TRident (DH121) leaving a maintenance hangar by cross threading a screw on an engine. - don;t do it. Your name will be mud and it will be you calling you it. Have you got a thread gauge for measuring the pitch accurately? Gauge The diameter is always apprx as the tips of the threads are often removed when cutting/rolling. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted May 18, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 18, 2021 15 minutes ago, RogerH said: Hi Hamish, I once delayed a TRident (DH121) leaving a maintenance hangar by cross threading a screw on an engine. - don;t do it. Your name will be mud and it will be you calling you it. Have you got a thread gauge for measuring the pitch accurately? Gauge The diameter is always apprx as the tips of the threads are often removed when cutting/rolling. Roger but Roger i've got a really big hammer that i am sure would do it !! no really i have got a little more circumspect in my older age - slightly less bodge it and scarper. those thread gauges look just the ticket can i be lazy and order the one you linked too ? as a starter set. thanks H H Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andy Moltu Posted May 18, 2021 Report Share Posted May 18, 2021 The easier option might have been to have left the cooler in place and wrapped the cooler in a cloth or obscured with card to prevent airflow/cooling. Hindsight is wonderful. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted May 18, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 18, 2021 yeah --- way to easy but its part of a bigger heat exchanger plan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ben Freer Posted May 18, 2021 Report Share Posted May 18, 2021 Remove the effing thing completely and then hit it with a hammer to ensure it can’t be refitted when you’re next bored and need something to do! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted May 18, 2021 Report Share Posted May 18, 2021 1 hour ago, Hamish said: but Roger i've got a really big hammer that i am sure would do it !! no really i have got a little more circumspect in my older age - slightly less bodge it and scarper. those thread gauges look just the ticket can i be lazy and order the one you linked too ? as a starter set. thanks H H Here you go Hamish my bet 10 AN. Mick Richards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted May 18, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 18, 2021 thanks for all the support and advice -- Ben -- ! I'm with you on that at the moment. well i have found an agricultural supplier (quite apt really !!) for my 1/2bsp ( known right size) to M16 adapter i got all excited when the post man arrived and rushed out to the garage to try it and woo hoo the M16 fits went to screw on the 1/2bsp 90 elbow and the adapter thread is too big - checked the invoice ( P and P more than the item!) and it looks like it should/as i ordered- so not my mistake. apparently order picker error or the part ended up in the wrong box but they sent a 5/8ths to M16 apparently the correct one is now being posted !! ( he screwed a fitting on to check !) nearly there just so you know i needed to fit 90 degree elbows to the sandwich plate but when undoing it - it was the adapter that came loose. and it was my attempts to get the adapter out of the fitting that mangled it (slightly) there is no hex on the original. however- believe it or not the larger 1/2bsp has enough good thread for the new elbow to tighten up and at a push the M16 will screw in after a bit of fine file work. but i wanted a proper part to do it right. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iain Posted May 19, 2021 Report Share Posted May 19, 2021 On 5/17/2021 at 10:56 PM, Grahamgl said: Iain, Just a thought, is the bleed valve on the slave cylinder uppermost? Graham Hi Graham, at the risk of thread sabotage Thanks for the thoughts. I have tried just about every trick in the book. The slave cylinder blead is in the correct high position. positive pressure easy blead suction easy blead both together. 3 different master cylinders, two of which are new. I have raised the front raised the rear, tried the Wedge trick for 3 days on the pedal. The only constant is that if you pump pressure and keep it pressurised, it holds until you release it, then you have a soggy pedal. I’m now convinced it’s a minute air leak, air being so much easier to leak into the system than a fairly thick fluid will leak out....which it doesn’t even with 20psi of pressure. my suspicion is the slave cylinder seal...........leaking on return. Ill report back at the weekend Iain Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rcreweread Posted May 19, 2021 Report Share Posted May 19, 2021 Have you changed the flexible hose? You appear to changed everything else. Cheers Rich Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted May 19, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 19, 2021 well the correct part has arrived and it was an order picking error thus the part is 1/2bsp to M16. i can now fit the reducer and the pair of 90deg elbows for the oil. another small step forward for this man. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iain Posted May 19, 2021 Report Share Posted May 19, 2021 1 hour ago, rcreweread said: Have you changed the flexible hose? You appear to changed everything else. Cheers Rich Hi Richard, yes thats a PTFE and braided version. Iain Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted May 25, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2021 Today was a day off so had many fun hours in the garage fitting the oil pipes and fittings for my heat exchanger project. the new 1/2bsp m16 adapter thread locked and sealed into the sandwich plate. The new 90degree elbows fitted to sandwich plate. Arranged so they don’t get in the way of the dipstick. 1/2 oil pipe ( quite inflexible isn’t it ) routed behind dizzy and coil and into heat exchanger unit. a bit of targeted heat on the pipes got it over the flare ridge on the bottom of the pipe that the mikalor clip tightens over (couldn’t get solder to bind to Ali for a flare at the tip) cranked the car over without starting to get oil pressure up / thus heat exchanger full. I have since run the car up to temp didn’t take long for the coolant to get to 185 to 207F on the gauge with the fan kicking in and out. took ages (over20 mins) for the oil to get to 140/160F in the sump. And the heat exchanger unit. At +2000 rpm in the garage. next step is connecting up the coolant from the car heater plumbing. Yellow and blue arrows Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted May 25, 2021 Report Share Posted May 25, 2021 Will those hose clips take the pressure ? Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted May 26, 2021 Report Share Posted May 26, 2021 (edited) Good point! 5 bar in a 1/2" hose pushes the hose off the pipe with about 6 kg. This should be no problem, on the top rad hose 1 bar pulls with about 10 kg. But if the hose slides off he has got a real problem! He could make the end of tube (3-5 mm) wider or to solder a ring on it. Ciao, Marco Edited May 26, 2021 by Z320 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted May 26, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 26, 2021 Tried the solder. I can’t make it work on Ali Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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