RobH Posted May 22, 2021 Report Share Posted May 22, 2021 If you have one side working, the flasher unit must be OK, power must be getting to the switch and the switch must be making at least on one side. Power goes from the flasher unit up to the control head and comes back either on the green/red wire or the green/white depending on which way the indicator switch is set. An easy check you can do is to swap over the green/red and green/white wires coming back from the control head at the bullet connectors, so they feed the opposite set of lamps - and see of the problem swaps sides. If it does, the switch or wiring from it is faulty on one side. If it doesn't swap over, the switch and wires from it are OK and the lamp circuit on that side is faulty. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted May 22, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 22, 2021 (edited) 39 minutes ago, RobH said: If you have one side working, the flasher unit must be OK, power must be getting to the switch and the switch must be making at least on one side. Power goes from the flasher unit up to the control head and comes back either on the green/red wire or the green/white depending on which way the indicator switch is set. An easy check you can do is to swap over the green/red and green/white wires coming back from the control head at the bullet connectors, so they feed the opposite set of lamps - and see of the problem swaps sides. If it does, the switch or wiring from it is faulty on one side. If it doesn't swap over, the switch and wires from it are OK and the lamp circuit on that side is faulty. Thanks Rob. That eliminated the lamp circuit as a problem. Unfortunately it points toward the new control head. Edited May 22, 2021 by David Owen Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted May 22, 2021 Report Share Posted May 22, 2021 28 minutes ago, David Owen said: Thanks Rob. That eliminated the lamp circuit as a problem. Unfortunately it points toward the new control head. W have covered this on here before read also http://xjguy.com/triumph/tr3a_turn_signal_mechanism.pdf or buy recon http://healey6.com/Technical/Austin Healey-AC Trafficator Restoration Flyer-VII.pdf Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted May 22, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 22, 2021 (edited) 13 minutes ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said: W have covered this on here before read also http://xjguy.com/triumph/tr3a_turn_signal_mechanism.pdf or buy recon http://healey6.com/Technical/Austin Healey-AC Trafficator Restoration Flyer-VII.pdf Thanks Peter, this is a new one and it is definitely the right hand signal in the control head. No continuity from power in to output. And I just reassembled the front of the car. Edited May 22, 2021 by David Owen Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted May 22, 2021 Report Share Posted May 22, 2021 23 minutes ago, David Owen said: Thanks Peter, this is a new one and it is definitely the right hand signal in the control head. No continuity from power in to output. And I just reassembled the front of the car. Not hard to get the horn push out. Three screws at the steering wheel boss. Disconnect the 4 wires near the horn that connect to the loom. Pull the horn push toward you as someone helps feed the wires up the stator tube. You can get the horn push control in your lap to fiddle with, without pulling the wires up the stator tube. Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted May 22, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 22, 2021 6 minutes ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said: Not hard to get the horn push out. Three screws at the steering wheel boss. Disconnect the 4 wires near the horn that connect to the loom. Pull the horn push toward you as someone helps feed the wires up the stator tube. You can get the horn push control in your lap to fiddle with, without pulling the wires up the stator tube. Peter W Thank you I managed that. Then I took the old one apart first to see what it looked like. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted May 22, 2021 Report Share Posted May 22, 2021 This may help: http://www.ovtc.net/uploads/9/5/1/6/9516577/tr3_control_head-disassemble_-_clive_elsdon.pdf Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted May 22, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 22, 2021 (edited) 1 hour ago, RobH said: This may help: http://www.ovtc.net/uploads/9/5/1/6/9516577/tr3_control_head-disassemble_-_clive_elsdon.pdf Thanks. The picture labelled " The remaining components laid out" convinced me to return/exchange the new one. The help is much appreciated. Edited May 22, 2021 by David Owen Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted May 22, 2021 Report Share Posted May 22, 2021 My 1st thought was that you have two of the flasher switch wires swapped over in the control head. so that one way (the way that works) you are connecting (say) the right side to the feed, but the other way (the way that doesn't work) you are connecting the two sides together, but not to the feed. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted May 22, 2021 Report Share Posted May 22, 2021 That's possible I suppose and easy enough to check. Three wires - green/brown, green /red, green white. switch to indicate right - which pair are connected (should be g/b to g/w) switch to indicate left - (should be g/b to g/r) If on either you get g/r to g/w, the connections are mixed up. The switch will work but the wire colours will be wrong. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted May 23, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2021 3 hours ago, Lebro said: My 1st thought was that you have two of the flasher switch wires swapped over in the control head. so that one way (the way that works) you are connecting (say) the right side to the feed, but the other way (the way that doesn't work) you are connecting the two sides together, but not to the feed. Bob. 2 hours ago, RobH said: That's possible I suppose and easy enough to check. Three wires - green/brown, green /red, green white. switch to indicate right - which pair are connected (should be g/b to g/w) switch to indicate left - (should be g/b to g/r) If on either you get g/r to g/w, the connections are mixed up. The switch will work but the wire colours will be wrong. THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! It worked! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted May 23, 2021 Report Share Posted May 23, 2021 I like a simple fix ! Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted May 23, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2021 11 hours ago, Lebro said: I like a simple fix ! Bob. So do I!!! And to top that off it started second try today after sitting on stands for 6 months. It still is on the stands but the open road is now in sight! Well at least around the block. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted May 23, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2021 It still blows me away that a manufacturing defect was sorted out remotely. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted May 23, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2021 (edited) I was wondering if there is a thermostatic switch that also has a straight temperature output and the whole assembly could be threaded into the thermostat housing? Or a T fitting that would accept both....or would that inhibit accurate reading of the temperature as it would not be in the flow of the water? Edited May 24, 2021 by David Owen Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ralph Whitaker Posted May 24, 2021 Report Share Posted May 24, 2021 5 hours ago, David Owen said: I was wondering if there is a thermostatic switch that also has a straight temperature output and the whole assembly could be threaded into the thermostat housing? Or a T fitting that would accept both....or would that inhibit accurate reading of the temperature as it would not be in the flow of the water? What is it you are trying to achieve? There are temp switches that fit into the top hose for electric fans, and I have seen a fish tank self adhesive temp gauge used too. Ralph Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted May 24, 2021 Report Share Posted May 24, 2021 The usual way of achieving that is to have a radiator return pipe with a threaded boss for a switch rather than do it at the thermostat housing. Item 29 below, part number 130039SST with one of the listed switches. https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr2-4a/cooling-system/radiators-hoses-fittings/water-pump-fan-fittings-tr2-4a-1953-67.html Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted May 24, 2021 Report Share Posted May 24, 2021 Agreed. Assuming you want the switch to activate a cooling fan. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted May 24, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 24, 2021 (edited) 8 hours ago, Ralph Whitaker said: What is it you are trying to achieve? There are temp switches that fit into the top hose for electric fans, and I have seen a fish tank self adhesive temp gauge used too. Ralph I am trying to over complicate things again. I was thinking that a t-connector from the thermostat housing could easily handle both a switch, which I already have, and the gauge fitting. Are you referring to a Kenlowe switch that I read about on here? Looked like it wasn't easy to install. Edited May 24, 2021 by David Owen Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted May 24, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 24, 2021 (edited) 5 hours ago, RobH said: The usual way of achieving that is to have a radiator return pipe with a threaded boss for a switch rather than do it at the thermostat housing. Item 29 below, part number 130039SST with one of the listed switches. https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr2-4a/cooling-system/radiators-hoses-fittings/water-pump-fan-fittings-tr2-4a-1953-67.html 5 hours ago, Lebro said: Agreed. Assuming you want the switch to activate a cooling fan. Bob. Thanks for that. It doesn't seem to be available here. What about this? Edited May 24, 2021 by David Owen Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted May 24, 2021 Report Share Posted May 24, 2021 (edited) Personally I've never been very keen on things that go through or under hoses, but that is Revotec so I suppose ought to be OK. Expensive though. That is an 'electronic' sensor for negative-earth only. If you wanted a manual override switch it would have to be separately wired. They do another version which fits in the hose line: https://revotec.com/acatalog/Electronic-Fan-Controller-Hose-Fitting.html Edited May 24, 2021 by RobH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Charlie D Posted May 24, 2021 Report Share Posted May 24, 2021 First thing I thought when I saw that video was: “Take that bl00dy ring off !” Charlie. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted May 24, 2021 Report Share Posted May 24, 2021 A neat idea, but like Rob I am not keen on cutting the rubber hose, it weakens it. & it will fail at some point in the future (requiring hose replacement, & re-fitting the sensor. I have a Revotech fan on my '3, and started off using their electronic in line sensor. It failed on me twice. I now use an "Otter" switch screwed into the metal section of the bottom hose pipe run. Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted May 24, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 24, 2021 (edited) Thanks everyone I will order the pipe from Moss Europe to install in the winter and run on a direct switch for this summer...or on a rainy weekend. Edited May 24, 2021 by David Owen Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Owen Posted May 24, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 24, 2021 Has anyone fashioned a rubber pad to put between the windshield centre support and the car? It seems wrong to have metal on metal. OR am I missing something? I checked a couple of catalogues and didn't see anything. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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