ChrisR-4A Posted November 26, 2019 Report Share Posted November 26, 2019 (edited) In the engine comp near battery only the nose of the isolator goes through the bulkhead side, terminals covered in engine comp with plastic cap similar to aerosol cap. Chris Edited November 27, 2019 by ChrisR-4A Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waldi Posted November 27, 2019 Report Share Posted November 27, 2019 Thanks Chris, good idea, and for my LHD car even easier. Will put it on my things to do list. Regards, Waldi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MilesA Posted November 27, 2019 Author Report Share Posted November 27, 2019 11 hours ago, ChrisR-4A said: In the engine comp near battery only the nose of the isolator goes through the bulkhead side, terminals covered in engine comp with plastic cap similar to aerosol cap. Chris On balance, I think Chris's solution beats Mr Revington's...just! Miles Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waldi Posted November 27, 2019 Report Share Posted November 27, 2019 Yes, it is a real KISS solution, suits me well. Waldi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MilesA Posted January 11, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2020 (edited) Just to sign off this thread. With the benefit of everyone's input, I decided on a permanent solution rather than constantly detaching (and reattaching) the earth and positive cables from the battery on a regular basis. Identified an existing 1" hole in the bulkhead on the N/S, close to the battery. installed a 12v socket with a cover wired directly to the battery clamps for the the earth and positive cables. Removed the croc clips from my battery conditioner and wired a fused, cigar type adapter to the wires. I already have a battery cut off switch installed, so no risk of power leakage when charging. Job done! Edited January 11, 2020 by MilesA Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waldi Posted January 11, 2020 Report Share Posted January 11, 2020 Hi Miles, An additional thought: I note you have your earth connected to the body, not directly to the engine. On a TR6 the battery earth strap has a double connection: one to the body, the other to the engine. That is a good approach I think. The high current during starting does not depend on an additional connection(body to engine), which I hope you have. Cheers, Waldi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MilesA Posted January 12, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2020 Hi Waldi Thanks for the feedback. This is I think the standard arrangement for the battery earth strap on a 3A. I think there is also a strap between engine and body but better experts than me on a 3A will confirm. Miles Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted January 12, 2020 Report Share Posted January 12, 2020 (edited) On the 3A there is an earth braid between the engine and the body by the left hand front engine mount. If that isn't there then return current from the starter motor has to find its way back via various odd paths like the throttle linkage, which isn't a good idea........ Edited January 12, 2020 by RobH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MilesA Posted January 12, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2020 Rob. No reason to believe it is not present but as part of my ongoing 3A education, I will check when I am next in the garage. Miles Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stillp Posted January 12, 2020 Report Share Posted January 12, 2020 A direct earth strap from battery to engine will help starting - half the number of connections for the current to pass through, so half the resistance. Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JohnG Posted January 16, 2020 Report Share Posted January 16, 2020 On 11/26/2019 at 5:07 PM, ChrisR-4A said: Ive had one of these for over 10 years, £12.99 at Halfrauds but probably cheaper elsewhere and can be fitted on LH bulkhead so key is in passenger footwell. Chris Fitted to every boat I've had and is a requirement for pleasure craft Usually never needed . . . . . . but . . . . . . . then it's a life saver John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DavidBee Posted March 30, 2020 Report Share Posted March 30, 2020 On 11/24/2019 at 12:02 PM, John Morrison said: Can I just add, nothing against these disconnect type things, sure they work really well, problem is they are no use if you have an electrical issue whilst in the car. A cut off mounted inside, does all of the above, AND, lets you kill the power even before you've stopped moving if an issue starts, I'm thinking of smoke filling the cockpit etc., where are you if you are in a sidescreen car with such an issue? you've to stop, find the carriage key get out fiddle with the bonnet and then kill the power - no brainer for me. John. You put it so clearly, John, that you made up my mind for me. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted March 30, 2020 Report Share Posted March 30, 2020 FWIW I would fit the type which not only disconnects the battery, but also kills the ignition circuit. If you have an "incident" while the engine is running, disconnecting the battery will not stop the engine, nor will it stop an electrical fire (shorted wires etc) Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Oddball Posted March 30, 2020 Report Share Posted March 30, 2020 On 1/11/2020 at 4:45 PM, MilesA said: Just to sign off this thread. With the benefit of everyone's input, I decided on a permanent solution rather than constantly detaching (and reattaching) the earth and positive cables from the battery on a regular basis. Identified an existing 1" hole in the bulkhead on the N/S, close to the battery. installed a 12v socket with a cover wired directly to the battery clamps for the the earth and positive cables. Removed the croc clips from my battery conditioner and wired a fused, cigar type adapter to the wires. I already have a battery cut off switch installed, so no risk of power leakage when charging. Job done! I notice you have a fuel pressure regulator and one of those glass filters. I’m assuming from that your running a couple of Weber’s. I had the same setup, however after reading about a number of instances of the filters failing and spraying petrol all over the engine, I removed it. I think this happened to someone on the forum, can’t recall who. Just something to consider. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ChrisR-4A Posted March 30, 2020 Report Share Posted March 30, 2020 I had one of those glass filters fitted some years ago and when the engine started cutting out over 2000 rpm I eventually found it was the mesh of the filter which had closed up restricting the flow even though it looked clear and there was no debris present. I now use a sealed filter and change it every 2 years or about 8000 miles. Robsport do a good one as fitted to Stags by them at a reasonable price. Never check a filter with just a visual inspection, either take it off and try blowing through it or remove the fuel pipe from the carbs and check the flow by cranking and letting it pump into a jar. Chris Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted March 30, 2020 Report Share Posted March 30, 2020 (edited) FWIW, I have my CTEK connector (teh one that came with the charger) hardwired to the battery from inside the glove box. I don't have to lift the bonnet, just open the glove box. I also have a battery cut off switch under the dash on the driver's side and a hidden immobiliser switch which I operate when the car is not being driven. Rgds Ian PS Miles, Is that your spare coil hiding behind the windscreen wiper motor? Edited March 30, 2020 by Ian Vincent Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MilesA Posted March 30, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2020 Cameron Yes, a couple of Webers. Have searched the 6 Forum without success. Are you suggesting that the glass filters are not strong enough to cope with the pressure, causing them to break? Chris Thanks - will bear that in mind if I get performance degradation and need to change filters. Ian Yes, that is my spare coil. The clamp attaches neatly to the existing bolts in the scuttle. I know it should be on the inside of the wing and although the car is far from original, I try to avoid drilling even more holes in it! Miles Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Oddball Posted March 30, 2020 Report Share Posted March 30, 2020 This is the thread from the forum. There have been other cases that caused fires. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fireman049 Posted March 30, 2020 Report Share Posted March 30, 2020 I have the same type of battery cut-off switch fitted to my 3AQ. I mounted it inside the cab under the drivers side of the dashboard and is instantly accessible in an emergency. I also have one fitted to my 'E'-type, in the cab. Tom. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MilesA Posted March 31, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 31, 2020 15 hours ago, Cameron said: This is the thread from the forum. There have been other cases that caused fires. Cameron Many thanks - I was searching the 6 Forum. I have a Facet filter between the tank and the Facet pump at the rear of the car. Rather liked the visual benefit of the glass filter in the engine bay as the fuel line from from the pump is rubber so it could still degrade. Hence the glass filter. I can also see the filter filling with fuel when first starting the car after a few week's inactivity (as I just check oil, water, etc). Been meaning to replace the fuel line with a metal one for a while, but if it ain't broke....So once this crisis is over that will probably get moved up the 'to do' list. In the meantime will try and source an alternative metal filter. Miles Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Oddball Posted March 31, 2020 Report Share Posted March 31, 2020 Hi Miles I think what your suggesting is a great idea, not wanting to add to your todo list but if you haven’t already I would also recommend replacing any remaining rubber fuel lines with ethanol resistant ones. I found Moss was the best supplier on price and quantity. All the Best Cameron Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MilesA Posted March 31, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 31, 2020 All suggestions gratefully received Cameron. In fact I did that a couple of years ago so for once, ahead of the game! Miles Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Deggers Posted April 3, 2020 Report Share Posted April 3, 2020 On 3/30/2020 at 7:59 AM, Lebro said: FWIW I would fit the type which not only disconnects the battery, but also kills the ignition circuit. +1 Cheers, Deggers Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted April 3, 2020 Report Share Posted April 3, 2020 Yep, that's the sort. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mk2 Chopper Posted July 4, 2020 Report Share Posted July 4, 2020 I've just fitted mine similar to ChrisR-4A above. Check these pictures. Gareth Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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