Phil H 4 Posted December 14, 2018 Report Share Posted December 14, 2018 Hi All, New to TR ownership and the register that seems very informative, so a cry for help to the community. I now have a 72 TR6 that I've waited years to own and having done a few months of maintenance and upgrades am now a bit stumped. I have a regular tapping noise that is most noticeable from inside the cabin, increases as the revs rise and whilst difficult to hear with the bonnet up due to fan noise etc it is best heard by putting your ear into the drivers foot well. It appears to be coming from low down in the engine,best described as a tapping noise and continues when the clutch is depressed. I have read numerous discussions regarding engine noise but not specific to my issue. Any direction will be most appreciated. Phil Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dave-lewis Posted December 14, 2018 Report Share Posted December 14, 2018 Hi Phil, Could it be the speedo cable near the angle drive? That is on the drivers side. Just a suggestion. Kind Regards, Dave from Spain Quote Link to post Share on other sites
roy53 Posted December 14, 2018 Report Share Posted December 14, 2018 try easy first. disconect the revcounter cable from engine side. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waldi Posted December 14, 2018 Report Share Posted December 14, 2018 Hi Phil, is it while driving or with car standing still? the latter would rule out tge speedo angle drive. Does the tapping change with temperature? A stehoscope (they are cheap) or long screwdriver to your ear is a good aid. Waldi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted December 14, 2018 Report Share Posted December 14, 2018 Disconnect the vacuum pipe to the brake servo and plug the pipe then see if it disappears. Dont drive the car as the brake pedal will be solid, if the nose disappears its the one way valve in the servo. Dont laugh its known to happen and gives a tapping noise as you describe from the drivers foot well. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Phil H 4 Posted December 14, 2018 Author Report Share Posted December 14, 2018 Thanks all, I have disconnected the speedo and Rev counters so not them. The noise is apparent when stationary and driving and is there when the engine is cold and warmed up. I will investgate the brake servo as Steve suggests. Great to have access to such exsperience. Phil Quote Link to post Share on other sites
harrytr5 Posted December 14, 2018 Report Share Posted December 14, 2018 I have heard a tapping noise from the metering unit and it was reconditioned. The guy who did it has a vast amount of experience and said some do, do this so don't worry. Still going years later I believe. Regards Harry Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richard71 Posted December 14, 2018 Report Share Posted December 14, 2018 I too have 1972 CP, rebuilt the engine myself after professional machine shop work, all new or reconditioned components, everything that can be balanced has, all clearances & tolerances checked and double checked...…..I can hear a tappety-ticking noise at fast idle speed. The engine was recently finely tuned by a very very well renowned mechanic (ex Triumph), he commented that the engine was superb, he couldn't hear anything, says there's nothing wrong with it. Perhaps not just our eyes play tricks on us? Richard. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mike C Posted December 14, 2018 Report Share Posted December 14, 2018 If the oil pressure is OK and there's no metal in the oil I'd track it down with an engine stethoscope ,as Waldi says. I use one with a long extension that can get down past the exhaust, belts etc with minimal personal risk. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Graham J Posted December 15, 2018 Report Share Posted December 15, 2018 Any chance of it being an exhaust leak at a joint? Graham Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Phil H 4 Posted December 15, 2018 Author Report Share Posted December 15, 2018 Morning Gents, Brake servo this afternoon as Stuart suggested followed by more investigation with a stethoscope. I don't believe its the metering unit as wrong location and fitted a new SS exhaust a couple of weeks ago. Perhaphs Richard is right but its a niggle i'd like to get to the bottom of. I'm a new owner...perhaps spending too much time in the garage fettling. Thanks to all. I'll post my finding if and when I get it resolved. Harry I see you are not far from me, any recommendations of a local specialist who could have a gander. Phil Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted December 15, 2018 Report Share Posted December 15, 2018 Hi Pete, have you checked the tappets for gap and lift.. Could be one cam lobe wearing away. Roger. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Aldpilot Posted December 15, 2018 Report Share Posted December 15, 2018 Hi Phil. I too have a similar noise and have had for the last couple of years on my TR5. Tappets were adjusted a week ago and although a couple were a bit tight the noise remains. I am working on sorting a diff leak and G/box leak with a non functioning overdrive at the moment, so my clicking/tapping noise is further down the to do list. Fiddling with things seems to be the norm with these lovely cars, but going out for a driving blast just puts a smile on my face, whenever I go out. The forum is a great place to get advice, sometimes the guys contradict each other a bit, but all have much more knowledge of the cars than me and are a great help. If I find out what is causing my noise, I will post here. Good luck sorting it. Mike Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted December 15, 2018 Report Share Posted December 15, 2018 Hi Mike/Phil, adjusting the tappets to the correct gap will not compensate for a worn lobe - sadly I'm an expert on this subject. I spent 2 years setting the gaps and yet the lobe did not grow any bigger Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
colin3511 Posted December 15, 2018 Report Share Posted December 15, 2018 I recently had a similar issue and went through everything including dropping the sump. After replacing or checking everything on a newly built engine there was nothing left but the cam. I stupidly got my original CP cam re- profiled. The owner of the well known cam manufacturer was surprised his company had agreed to re-profile it. On checking there was considerable run out on the lobes. New cam at cost and all resolved. Pull the cam and get it checked! Colin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DaveN Posted December 16, 2018 Report Share Posted December 16, 2018 Broken piston ring? the footwell would act like a sound box and amplify any noise. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mike C Posted December 16, 2018 Report Share Posted December 16, 2018 If you think it may help, download a recording to the forum giving details of where the mike was positioned. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Phil H 4 Posted December 16, 2018 Author Report Share Posted December 16, 2018 Update re engine noise. Stuart you obviously know your stuff, did as suggested re the vacuum pipe to the brake servo and the tapping noise stopped. Reconnected to make sure and back it came. I must put say a big thank you to all on the register that took the time to suggest possible causes. The engine sounds and pulls well but having now got my ear tuned in I think I will check the tappets for gap and lift as Roger suggested....time to put a heater in the garage. Back to the brake servo, being a relative novice I have referenced the manual and can see that the non-return valve is located front bottom of the unit appears to be plastic with two flat side. Haven't attempted to remove as yet but assume this will unscrew and replacement pretty easy when I locate the part , will check Moss and Rimmers. Thanks again. Phil Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richard71 Posted December 16, 2018 Report Share Posted December 16, 2018 43 minutes ago, Phil H 4 said: Update re engine noise. Stuart you obviously know your stuff, did as suggested re the vacuum pipe to the brake servo and the tapping noise stopped. Reconnected to make sure and back it came. I'll try that too! My non-return valve is the Land Rover type screwed into the rear throttle body. Richard. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jamesStag Posted December 17, 2018 Report Share Posted December 17, 2018 Hi Phil & Richard,. Just FYI, I had same servo non-return valve rattle too. I have the early bayonet style plastic unit. Found a replacement, was exactly the same!! So then found you can buy the metal non-return valve that goes into the inlet manifold of the PI. Once that was fitted too (so two valves in series) all has been quiet ever since. Hope that helps, cheers, J. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Phil H 4 Posted December 17, 2018 Author Report Share Posted December 17, 2018 Hi James, The part No for the plastic bayonet style valve is 516907. I have tried Rimmers and Moss but the part has been discontinued. Could you give me a steer as to a supplier. Thanks Phil. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richard71 Posted December 17, 2018 Report Share Posted December 17, 2018 Do the metal screw-in type rattle at all? That's what I already have fitted. I couldn't source a plastic one for the servo which is an aftermarket item from TR Shop, TRW probably. Richard. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Phil H 4 Posted December 17, 2018 Author Report Share Posted December 17, 2018 Hi Richard, I don't believe its the valve rattling , but certainly isolating it has cured my issue, Stuart can probably best advise on the reason for the tapping, way beyond my understanding. Lots of noises going on ...I think the metering unit is also making a fainter tapping like Harry's but that's for a different weekend. If anyone has a surplus plastic bayonet valve 516907 I would be very please to hear from you, or ideas on an adaption rather than getting a new solenoid. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted December 18, 2018 Report Share Posted December 18, 2018 The usual cure is one of these fitted in the vacuum pipe https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TRIUMPH-MINI-MG-FORD-ROVER-JAGUAR-Vacuum-Tank-Non-Return-Valve-UK-Made/142101676018?hash=item2115eb7ff2:g:rawAAOSwo8hTnDLr:rk:7:pf:0 The reason for the ticking is the original valve has failed and its rattling open and shut in time with the engine stroke. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Phil H 4 Posted December 18, 2018 Author Report Share Posted December 18, 2018 Spoke to TD Fitchett Ltd this morning 01952 620434, thay have origional part No 516907 £15 plus £3 postage. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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