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colin3511

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colin3511 last won the day on April 19

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  • Cars Owned:
    TR6 - NYM 369L, TR6 - 192 JGY, WWA 416F (TR250)

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  1. Is the stay straight? It happened to me with a slightly bent stay. Colin
  2. Take the PRV out and clean it and ensure it is free. I had exactly the same issue and it was the piston jammed open. The pump displacement is relatively small so it will run at zero if PRV open. Unlikely to be the pump. Colin
  3. Hi Gareth, It's personal opinion but I swapped back and forth a couple of times and decided on the single bore rear silencer against the super sport twin. Much better sound and a little quieter too. They now come as two piece. This helps transportation and fitment. No issues fitting but you need to be able to mess around with brackets to ensure no rattles. I put a bracket on the gearbox mount too but I don't think it was necessary. Photos if you need to take a better look. Colin
  4. Hi Hawk, About 25 miles away you have Worcester Classic Cars. Simon Andrews is the proprietor there and it red hot on TR electrics, having helped me out a few times. It's usually easy to solve....if you know what you are doing and he does! Colin
  5. They are pop riveted on with large diameter rivets. Colin
  6. I'm sure Bromsgrove Engines do a great job but you'll wait forever. Took mine away in the end. Went to Dave's Engine Centre in Studley. First class job and turnaround in less than 2 weeks. Colin
  7. Rob, Check the PRV again. I had this recently and it blew the oil filter and adaptor seal, spraying oil everywhere. The PRV appeared to be fine but it was binding and not limiting the maximimum pressure. I'd say 75 psi at 2500 rpm and 30 psi on tickover. It should be slightly higher on cold start but not too much, as the PRV will limit maximum. The thicker oil at cold increases the delta P across the PRV, as it can't escape as quickly due to the higher viscosity. Colin
  8. Hi Phil, The complete fuel kit has the return line in it. I would have thought you could purchase just the return copper pipe. Try TRGB. You will need the short flexible pipe to cover the last 8" or so to attach to the metering unit. Colin
  9. Hi, I have a rebuilt A type overdrive gearbox that, now fitted, has a couple of leaks from the overdrive unit and one in the bell housing. Pretty competent mechanically but never touch a gearbox before. How straightforward would it be to replace the paper seals? Is there anything I should be aware of? Alternatively I'll get it done professionally but I've tackled everything else. Thoughts? Thanks, Colin
  10. colin3511

    Engine removal

    Ian, Ideally you should jack up the rear of the car to give you a better angle. It's tight but doable as I have just done this. Obviously bonnet off. I think you must go backwards as it is quite awkward. If not, split the engine and box. Colin
  11. Hi Andy, Depends what you are looking to achieve. I would put a fast road cam in and get the head ported and polished. This will make a noticeable difference in performance without making it difficult to drive. Going to cost you £1000 but well worth it. Colin
  12. You will also have a Lucas ammeter. The later CR cars had a voltmeter. Also check they are all correct. Many cars I have seen have incorrect gauges or mixed ones. See photo - these are all correct for CP car. Colin
  13. Went ahead with the red interior and absolutely delighted with the results. Colin
  14. Just wanted to advertise the brilliant service of the TR Register, and particularly Graham, who was able to make the application to DVLA on my behalf. It all happened in 2 weeks and I can now really enjoy the bank holiday weekend! Thanks, Colin
  15. TRGB. They have had issues with reconditioned units so are only selling new ones at the moment. I thing they are from Argentina of all places! Colin
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