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colin3511

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  • Cars Owned:
    TR6 - NYM 369L, TR6 - 192 JGY, WWA 416F (TR250)

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  1. You can get them rechromed if they aren’t too pitted. If they are, live with them or buy new ones. The new ones will transform the rear.
  2. Yes. Tonneau or hood cover.
  3. Tim, It is a very crude gauge really. They are okay but remember they are now 50 years old. Get another one. Easy enough to change the dial and bezel, if you want to use one that isn’t off a TR6. Colin
  4. Change all the plugs. Don't clean and re-use....replace.
  5. Is there not a slight difference in the piston areas? This would mean a difference in the pressure applied to each line. If you look at the cross section through the master there does appear to be a difference in the bore diameter. The force from the pedal is the same but the area it acts on is different - P= F x A.
  6. Kev, yes they were different and adjusted accordingly. Thanks, Colin
  7. Appreciate that Neil. Do you have any experience of noise related to removing the seals? Thanks Waldi. Just seems strange that the only real difference is the stem seal removal. Not specific to TR's but having googled it there does seem to be a little correlation if they are removed, or if they have failed. I have fitted a slightly higher lift cam, so perhaps it is down to the valve springs maybe? Retained the standard double spring set up. Thanks, Colin
  8. After some recent head work I decided not to refit the valve stem seals fitted by PO. He had bronze guides with the recess to fit the seals. All back together and working well but a little rattly. Sounds like the valve clearances are out but I have checked them 3 times. Accepting there is probably more clearance between stems and guides, could the rattle noise relate to the stem seals? If so, is it possible to refit without removing the head? Is there a ‘lever’ tool available to facilitate the spring and collar removal with head in situ? Thanks
  9. Has the flywheel been lightened taking material off the gearbox side? I have seen this before due to this. The clutch plate hits the 4 bolts and gradually causes the damage as seen. Initially you get a grouching noise until sufficient material has been removed from the bolts!
  10. If they are heavy pitted you can't re-chrome them very well. All the pitting will remain. I would suggest replacements which are pretty good.
  11. Is 100 psi too high? Ran it with mechanical and electronic gauge side by side and they mirror each other. Pedestal clearance checked when distributor was rebuilt by DD. Interested to know why you think of that though - oil pump disengaging? Thanks
  12. No, constant rpm and it will suddenly drop. May only do it once or twice on a 30 minute run. All 3 sets of PRV parts gave approximately the same psi reading. They were all standard springs and no washers. Thanks
  13. Use 20/50 Waldi. Hear your comments but I’m pretty sure the PRV is closed all the time this event happens. It wouldn’t suddenly open and lower the pressure. I could understand if it was stuck open and I suddenly gained pressure. I’ve tried 3 different sets of PRV parts as that was my first thought. Engine was rebuilt by previous owner so not much I can do but investigate. Thanks
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