tr4a Oil change?

[monty]

Going to put the car into storage for 4 to 5 months soon & was wondering whether I should give it an oil change before or after the storage. Last oil change was just over a year ago & mileage between will be around 1600 to 1800 miles. Expecting to perhaps give it a short run every 4 to 6 weeks during its storage. The Millers 20/50 Classic Oil at the moment still looks clean & almost golden. Peoples thoughts please.

Regards.

[stuart]

Change it now and then change it again when you get it out of storage. Oil is cheap compared to any engine components.

Stuart.

[Eddie Cairns]

Stuart can you provide any evidence that this will prevent any engine damage at all. Otherwise this is just a waste of money not cheap insurance. I have yet to fin any evidence that all these oil changes on a time only basis will prevent engine damage if the oil has not been used for extended mileage.

[stillp]

Expecting to perhaps give it a short run every 4 to 6 weeks during its storage.

Make sure the run is long enough to get the engine up to full operating temperature, or don't bother. You don't want condensation in the oil.

 

Pete

[monty]

Make sure the run is long enough to get the engine up to full operating temperature, or don't bother. You don't want condensation in the oil.

 

Pete

Quite agree Pete. With something like this I usually do at least a 30 to 50 mile run to get everything moving & warm.

Thanks for your comments.

[Guest ntc]

Change it now and then change it again when you get it out of storage. Oil is cheap compared to any engine components.

Stuart.

+1 Metal = water when cold.

[monty]

Stuart can you provide any evidence that this will prevent any engine damage at all. Otherwise this is just a waste of money not cheap insurance. I have yet to fin any evidence that all these oil changes on a time only basis will prevent engine damage if the oil has not been used for extended mileage.

Yes Eddie I was a bit surprised @ that. My Millers oil & K & N filter plus use of the local garage ramp all X 2 is not that cheap!

[monty]

+1 Metal = water when cold.

In a purpose built dehumidified car storage facility?

[Guest ntc]

In a purpose built dehumidified car storage facility?

Valves closed yep.

[oldtuckunder]

I'd go along with Stuart, however you don't need to use a super expensive oil for the storage (in fact I'd go for a lighter weight oil as it will flow quicker on initial start up after standing when all the damage is done), just make sure on your runs you get the oil hot not just the engine (you don't need to drive fast or work engine hard to get the oil to 80+ in around 20/25 mins) Also why bother changing the filter at all? Filters work better and better as they get through their intended service life. So you have a newish filter in now, just dump the oil and fill with your storage oil, then when your ready just dump that and refill with the good stuff.

 

Alan

[RogerH]

) Also why bother changing the filter at all? Filters work better and better as they get through their intended service life. So you have a newish filter in now, just dump the oil and fill with your storage oil, then when your ready just dump that and refill with the good stuff.

 

Alan

Hi Alan,

changing the filter !! that is what I was trying to get over on an earlier post.

 

Roger

[monty]

Not sure why the condensation situation should be different in oil only 1500 miles old & new stuff. I understand the filter situation & in fact I was going to leave changing that until the car comes out of storage, along with new oil.

I would have thought a car in a proper dehumidified environment for say 5 months then in a garage with a dehumidifier for the other 7 months would suffer less than say a car outside for 12 months used very little. Are we saying to change the oil several times a year in those many cars that may only run around 1500 to 2000 miles a year? I suspect that most of us do not run many miles in the winter & are left standing unused.

[MostEasterlySteve]

I thought the advice about changing the oil before a lay-up period was to do with the corrosive compounds in the used oil causing some level of internal corrosion. That's the 'conventional' wisdom that I seem to have inherited from somewhere. I've always understood that it is far more important to change the oil before the lay-up rather than afterwards.

[Rod1883]

Steve - that's my understanding too. Corrosive products of combustion in the oil are the, or at least an, issue.

[whatmore179]

Try the Joe Gibbs driven motor racing HR1 oil. It has US Army anti corrosion additive in it to stop corrosion whilst the engine is not in use. Also has plenty of ZZP

Steve

[RogerH]

Hi Steve/Rod,

why would any corrosive products in the oil be more active when stationary rather than driving.

 

is it because the oil absorbs water moisture and then does not burn it off at normal running temp.

And it is this combination of water and mucky oil that does the damage.

 

How does moisture get into the mucky oil that is trapped in the bearings.

 

So why not drain and fill with new oil, spin the engine with plugs out to get new oil into all the right places.

Then drain the oil whilst the car is in storage. This will keep the water out of the oil. Don;t forget to put the oil back in.

 

It is much easier to running the car through the winter

[Motorsport Mickey]

"Ang on" !

 

Storage for 4-5 months, running it every 6 weeks or thereabouts until warm ! That seems to describe the normal annual use of many classic vehicles !

 

This question is easily answered, leave it alone until after the storage period and resume the normal oil and filter change cycle you would observe.

 

Mick Richards

[Lebro]

Hmmm that's what I was thinking but not wishing to contradict others who know a lot more about these things than moi

 

Bob.

[monty]

"Ang on" !Storage for 4-5 months, running it every 6 weeks or thereabouts until warm ! That seems to describe the normal annual use of many classic vehicles !This question is easily answered, leave it alone until after the storage period and resume the normal oil and filter change cycle you would observe.Mick Richards

I was hoping for a comment from you Mick as I believe you have 'been inside' these tractor engines many times during your rebuilds!

Your thoughts were what I initially thought & proposed when I originally posted the question, in order to clarify the different ideas that people had. With the low mileage on the existing quality oil I did think it to be in order to put it into store as it is & give it a fresh change for the main 2018 season & hopefully better weather. The fact that it was going into a purpose built quality dehumidified facility instead of being left in the cold strengthened my reasoning.

Many thanks.

[monty]

After putting the cat among the pigeons regarding oil changes, can I ask what people think about how much fuel to leave in tanks before storage? Standard fuel tank but almost empty, half full or full or anything else?

Cheers.

[john.r.davies]

With trembling hands, I venture, as little fuel as possible, and to add some storage additive. I use Briggs & Stratton Fuel Fit, sold in lawnmower stores.

https://www.frjonesandson.co.uk/products/briggs-stratton-fuel-additive-250ml/?gclid=Cj0KCQjwoZTNBRCWARIsAOMZHmGTmHpsagJJ-_pyylFXQQnbrsl9F_8p31Pk4IqYMUD1q461XvLDwZIaAjeCEALw_wcB

 

John

[Rob Salisbury]

Another +1 for Stuart, anyone who has a catch tank rather that the recycling system will know all about the acidic watery oil mix discharged from the engine, if you've got a PCV and this discharge is left mixed with the engine oil for 4 or 5 months then you will get corrosion throughout the engine, probably best to change the oil, run it up to full temperature for a few minutes, leave it to go cold, stick some Redex down the bores and leave it alone for the duration, turn the engine over by hand once or twice during the lay-up.

Cheers Rob

[PaulAA]

After putting the cat among the pigeons regarding oil changes, can I ask what people think about how much fuel to leave in tanks before storage? Standard fuel tank but almost empty, half full or full or anything else?

Cheers.

 

You haven't put the cat among the pigeons. You asked a question and then criticised the answer you received from an experienced engineer. I'm probably missing something here, but if, as you say, you wanted Mick's advice, why didn't you just PM him?

[monty]

With trembling hands, I venture, as little fuel as possible, and to add some storage additive. I use Briggs & Stratton Fuel Fit, sold in lawnmower stores.

https://www.frjonesandson.co.uk/products/briggs-stratton-fuel-additive-250ml/?gclid=Cj0KCQjwoZTNBRCWARIsAOMZHmGTmHpsagJJ-_pyylFXQQnbrsl9F_8p31Pk4IqYMUD1q461XvLDwZIaAjeCEALw_wcB

 

John

That's a thought John. Can it be put into the fuel before the 30 mile trip to the storage facility or put it in on arrival?

Cheers.

[john.r.davies]

Since it can't be taken out when you want to run it it again, and needs to be in there before you store it, I'd say put it in first. I don't have a bottle in front of me - or a frontal leukotomy! So buy a bottle and RTFL!

John