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Found 743 results

  1. dpb

    surrey top

    Having just spent 30 minutes trying to get the top on, only succeeding by brute force, swearing and sweat, fortunately in the garage not out in the rain, please god has somebody figured out a better way to do this? cheers Dave ====
  2. . That was a year that was.. This was the year in which Sir Winston Churchill’s funeral took place in London. The same year, Lyndon Baines Johnson had been sworn in as President of the United States following the assassination of John F. Kennedy (an event which had occurred some 14 months earlier). Stanley Mathews played in his last 1st division game, and the unmanned lunar space probe Ranger-8 crashed onto the moon. The USA sent their first 3,500 combat troops to Vietnam and instigates Rolling Thunder (almost 3-years of sustained aerial bombing). While back home in Alabama - State troops lay mercilessly into a peaceful protest march (known as Bloody Sunday). Ironically this happened on the Edmund Pettus Bridge which was named after a former Confederate Brigadier General, and also Grand Wizard of the Alabama Ku Klux Klan. Following graphic television coverage of that event, Lyndon Johnson implemented a Bill of Rights for American Negroes. Russian Cosmonaut Alexei Leonov leaves his spacecraft for 12 minutes to becomes the first man to walk in space. ‘My Fair Lady’ wins 8 Academy Awards, and ‘Mary Poppins’ takes five Oscars. Intelsat-1 communications satellite is deployed - marking a turning point in television, telephone, radio, internet, and military technology. While down on earth - the Pennine Way is officially opened. Racing driver Jim Clark wins the Indianapolis 500, and then goes on to win the Formula one championships. Muhammad Ali knocks out Sonny Liston in a world heavyweight championship rematch, while the Rolling Stones “(I Can't Get No) Satisfaction" is released. The Beatles second movie Help! premieres and they perform the very first ‘stadium concert’ playing before a 55,600 audience at Shea Stadium in New York City. Cigarette advertising is banned on British television, and Singapore is expelled from the Federation of Malaysia. And then recognised as a sovereign nation. After almost two years the Auschwitz War Crimes trials in Frankfurt are concluded. 66 former SS personnel receive life sentences and 15 others receive lesser sentences for their doings. Bob Dylan releases his influential album ‘Highway 61 Revisited’ Incredibly all of the above happened in the first 8 months of that year ..even before Tom & Jerry or the Thunder-Birds were first aired.! But then.., around about this same time a small sports car was sold ..to an American working in England. His name was E. Crawford Morton. And he came from New York State. At that time, he was assigned to work in Britain & Europe for the International Paper Co. of Ticonderoga, NewYork. The year was 1965, and so this particular story starts some 54 years ago. The car he chose was British Racing Green with a light tan coloured hood and leather seats. It was the new independent rear suspension Triumph TR4A. And aside from its Laycock type-A overdrive, and it being a Left hand drive car delivered to a customer in England - it was unexceptional. Well that is as ‘unexceptional’ as any gleamingly brand new TR4 sports car might be ..when owned by a wealthy American living in Britain during the swinging sixties. So, Crawford (as his family liked to call him) took the car to Standard-Triumph’s authorised specialist tuners ; SAH of Leighton Buzzard, Bedfordshire ..for a few ‘enhancements’. Sid A. Hurrell (SAH) had made a name for himself preparing and successfully racing a TR2, indeed his performance tuning parts were used in Triumph’s work’s cars, with aspects of those carried into subsequent production. The Triumph TR2 soon made a name for itself in both club and International racing events, in sprints, hill climbs, and in rallying. SAH had a catalogue of special parts for the Triumph Herald (which made also quite an impact within international rally circles) and Vittesse (competitive in saloon car racing). Parts were developed for the 1300 and 1500cc Triumphs, the Bond, and for the Triumph 2000 and 2500 models. Naturally each model from TR2 onwards were tuned, tweaked and lightened.. If you're not aware of SAH - they later became Triumph-Tune. E. Crawford Morton was a great enthusiast of motor racing and whenever an opportunity arose he would take off to a Grand Prix event ..anywhere across Europe. Apparently he was not only a spectator but according to his nephew Fletch “Crawford never raced that TR, but he was a very fast and skilled driver who used all of the cars capabilities on those lovely New York Adirondack roads” Clearly a man of discernment who also appreciated the advantages of lightweight components in racing &/or in a true seat-of-the-pants sport-cars, because one of the things Crawford really wanted of SAH was a set of their knock-on JA Pearce magnesium-alloy wheels (Magna alloys). A set of these make wire wheels, alloys and even the works perforated-steel wheels appear heavyweight and/or fragile. This is a TR4, so not the same car but coincidentally is in the same colours and with magna wheels. Of course, as the car was to be left with SAH anyway - then the engine might also be tuned, an oil temperature gauge, cooler, and filter fitted. A Girling ‘brake booster’ and addition driving lamps were also fitted. It is believed the engine received a Stage-1 tune : for fast road use. In petrol-head terms that’s raising the TR4A's standard 104bhp to a modest 135bhp - without loosing around town low rev’s driveability. What’s that 30% more power ? This was achieved mainly through camshaft and cylinder-head re-work, carb jetting and filters, ignition electrics, and the standard exhaust manifold being swapped out for SAH’s four branch extractor pipes. It is probable that the engine was also balanced for endurance ..to survive his high-speed jaunts to GP events across Europe. What's certain is that the wheels and tyres selected to transmit this performance potential to the tarmac were of wide profile. And, for road use throughout Europe, that meant the wheel-arches needed extending. Remember we’re talking about a brand new car here. Incredible as it might seem nowadays - Crawford had SAH replace the TR4’s four wings with fibreglass ones. These not only had extended wheel arch brows but I understand saved about 15lb in weight ..off each panel. That weight saving may not seem very much, but from a standing start in a quarter-mile acceleration run ; a 30lb weight saving would equate to 0.1 seconds difference. Again seemingly not worth the effort, but.. with two otherwise identical cars side by side - the lighter one would be 12-foot in front.! And aside from aiding acceleration - such weight saving at the extremities also help to centralise the car’s mass for crisper handling. These Triumphs aren’t a heavy car anyway, the weight distribution is also pretty good on the 4-cyclinder model, and then of course the C of G is very low too. With IRS and a 30% increase in power, and also factoring considerable weight saving in having magnesium-alloy wheels, and a little tweaking of the suspension parts, then we’re beginning to talk about a road car that not only performed exceptionally well but also handled better than most any other on the road at that time. Jaguars and Astons would have had much more power but a lightweight TR might well take the inside track ..and be whole lot more fun as well. Anyway, I’m rambling.. not least because much of this SAH special equipment has been lost to the financial needs of the car’s more recent owner. Unfortunately this car’s history, subsequent to Crawford, is at present a little vague - except that there were three further owners, and what we might gather from a bumper sticker, believed to be a pass to a military installation - dated 1982. So let's fast forward to June 1998 when the present owner - a Mr. Raymond Lucas Hatfield of Little Rock, Arkansas bought this very same TR4A. " I rescued the car from what was basically a junkyard - a garage that had many old cars abandoned behind it. My wife said the I was giving it a 'second chance' at being used, and the name stuck ". Apparently it had been there as junk for years. “ Mr. Crawford passed away before I bought the car, but apparently he told the second owner that he had rallied the car in England for several years before returning to the United States, bringing the car with him. There is evidence on the car that it had been driven hard at some point and suffered some damage ; dents to the frame, some holes and dents in the body. I spoke to the second owner, who states he only drove it on the road until about 1980 when he started tearing it apart to rebuild it. The rebuild stalled and he finally sold it to the individual I bought it from in 1991. There it sat until 1998 when I bought it " The car was bought and so collected from Birmingham, Alabama (some 375 miles away from Little Rock, Arkansas). Unfortunately on the way home, with the car on a tow dolly - it dropped off its rear right wheel. “While loading the TR on the dolly, I noticed that the 'spinner' was missing off the right rear wheel, but thought it of no consequence since I (and the seller) were under the impression that these were bolt-on wheels. In all fairness, I do not recall seeing any part of the spindle showing on that rim to clue any of us to the fact that it was a knock off wheel. … I'm quite sure that all of you know what happened now. I made it from Birmingham, AL to about 50 miles from my home in Arkansas before that wheel came off. As it came off, it tore the fiberglass rear fender off. Fortunately, that was the extent of the damage to the TR, but now I am stuck with the car on the side of the freeway in the middle of the night! " Raymond in his forum posts and in correspondence with myself tells us that the "engine was seized up from being parked in a junkyard for 10 years". In due course the motor was removed from the car and stripped down, with the offending piston released from its bore ..courtesy of a big hammer smashing the cylinder liner. On the four banger TR’s these are wet sleeve (dry on the six cylinder), and rather than simply replace the liners, the owner acquired another short-block TR4 motor. But in his heart of hearts - he hankered for a Triumph TR5 with its smoother and more powerful six cylinder sea anchor. And so is found investigating, on American brit-car forums, the options of a more powerful engine to drop into Chance. V8’s as well as straight-six Toyota and the 2.8 ltr BMW motors were each considered for “a sleeper Vette killer”. At the same time he was also considering selling the overdrive transmission in favour of a modern five-speed box., but after much deliberation he opted to buy a six-cylinder TR6’s engine. In the same transaction came a TR6 chassis - which still appears to be in good shape. The replacement 4-cylinder short-block was sold on, and the original engine remained in bits. Over the past, almost 21 years of present ownership, the car’s Second Chance hasn’t yet come to realisation. The front brake callipers have I’m told been swapped out for Toyota four-pot items, and the rear suspension has modern shock absorbers in place of the original Armstrong lever arm types. Raymond has his own TR enthusiast website which recall some of this car's history (last updated c.2005 ). Unfortunately there is not one photo of the car nor any part of it. Below is a recent photo from the for sale advert to which I replied. The exceptionally lightweight and strong knock-off Magna wheels were sold for $800, to an English guy in 2003. And bolt-on Mustang Bullitt (c.2001 model) aluminium alloys fitted instead. The Englishman who bought the wheels was a Mr. Roger Butt “who then restarted the company and made new wheels on the same pattern. The company he worked for (Rotex Developments) had a factory/warehouse here in Arkansas” Tidbit : Roger Butt was Company Secretary to Osprey Marine Ltd between February ‘94 and March 1998. He was appointed Director of Rotex Developments Ltd (Present Company status : Dissolved) in August ‘05, and again appointed Director of J.A. Pearce Engineering Ltd (Present Company status : Dissolved ) in 2012. The latter is of course the same name as having originally made racing and sports wheels. The car has been stripped out of its interior. I’m told the original leather seats didn’t withstand being out in the elements ..so they have gone in favour of a pair of high-back Mazda Maida seats, not yet fitted. The dashboard timber, light-tan door cards and carpet set have been replaced, but again not refitted. The black steering wheel looks like an SAH one (it’s leather rimmed with slotted aluminium spokes). And little niceties like the SAH embossed ashtray and the engine’s SAH cast-alloy rocker-cover have also gone, as has the car’s oil cooler, temp gauge setup, and quick change filter. Non have been replaced. The fuel tank and under-bonnet space are also stripped out, but most of those parts are with the car, albeit in unknown condition after having been stored for the past 21 years, plus another 10 years " parked in a junkyard". From what I can see in photos and has been discussed in email correspondence with Raymond, around the bulkhead’s battery tray is rusted, as is the lower forward edge of the boot floor and spare wheel well. These have in part been patched by one of the interim owners, as has one sill. Both sills have holes to their inside rear corners, and the floors show sign of nature’s aeration. The paintwork is scruffy, apparently looking better in the photos than in life. And the bumpers, like pretty much everything else, are off the car and have seen brighter days. Most probably there are numerous minor bits missing or beyond repair, but as an optimist - I’ll presume 90% of the car is there and might be reusable, if enough time and money is spent in their recondition. Oh btw., the car is still in Arkansas, which in case you are unaware is 450 miles sorta north of Huston, Texas and similarly from New Orleans. This being west across state from Memphis Tennessee ..so not exactly close to any coastline or shipping port. So, as a largely dismantled non-runner, the overland transport and shipping freight is going to cost £-thousands. However, even factoring in the transport cost - this TR4A is as cheap as I could find (..cheap is a relative term !). And unlike most cars from the States ; it does has an interesting history. Although not at this time paper-documented ; the (three remaining) flared grp wings and other remaining SAH parts, as well as email correspondence from the nephew do confirm the story. Accordingly, a week last Friday I put a bid on it. And then I had a counter offer, which I accepted on condition that he’ll prepare and pack the car (together with the 'spare' chassis) for transport (my proposal below) . Last Monday evening I received an affirmative response. No, I promise to NOT paint this TR4 red.! So there we are, I have to sell a motorcycle or two and my Ami-super but., despite it being ridiculously too small a car for someone as old, or tall and broad as myself (6’-5” with the accumulative effects of gravity for 60++ years) - it is what I hanker for. And if I don’t do it now then I don’t suppose I’ll ever have the 'chance' again. I hope my reckless abandonment of any last remnant of common-sense ..and the consequential issues I’ll have to deal with over the next couple of years will of some passing amusement to you all. Bfg p.s. As a pushed-into-early-retirement individual (former design engineer) ..this restoration / recommissioning will be on a very tight budget. As mentioned - I'm also very tall, so concessions to those factors override any idea of originality. This will not be a car for the purist as I have no qualms at all in using seats out of a Triumph Herald or else an MG or Austin 7 if they are suitably period styled, available cheaply, and better accommodate my freak-sized frame. If anyone chooses to help me out anywhere along the line - then I'd be incredibly grateful - I'm in Suffolk. Cheers to all !
  3. dpb

    4a lubrication

    Doing my car lubrication this morning, the manual shows 5 (5!) lube nipples on each front wheel assembly, whilst mine only has 2. So I did those - one the top ball joint, the other being the trunnion. So where have the other 3 gone? Is this normal? The manual shows one at the end of each steering tie rod - mine has none and no holes for nipples either, and the other two seem to be shown at the bottom of the trunnion - mine has none. I'm guessing this is due to later upgrades or changes and nothing I should worry about. Is it? Cheers Dave ==
  4. Folks, so it started last week with a nasty squeaking from the rear end. I jacked it up this evening and found that the inner RH TA bracket had a fresh failure. The crack is all the way on the left side of the bolts which suggests an outward torsion of the TA. I'm now wondering what is the ulterior cause for it? Yes, the brackets are old and original but 1/ I have a lot of positive camber on both sides resulting in wearing the outer edge of the tires (worn to the rope that is) after 10,000 miles and 2/ the rear suspension has always been very saggy even after replacing the Armstrong. I have ordered a set of new brackets but what am I to look at in priority now? Tires are 165/R80/15 on 5.5 rims. As always S
  5. Hello All, I think have read every post relating to wire wheels and genuine minilites. Although I haven't seen this topic brought up and I am keen to hear people's thoughts. Currently I have 72 spoke 5.5 inch wires on my TR4A although the wheels are in great shape, I am not a huge fan of wires. I am tempted by genuine minilites, however discussion regarding Dunlop's M-Type wheel has stirred my interest enough to raise this topic and seek other members opinions. The thing is that I have always loved the "world" badge that comes with the TR4A and as the steel wheels with hubcaps has this emblem on it they would be my preferred choice over wires or minilites. However the issue is that the steels only come in 4.5 inches width (I am fairly surr you can't get 5.5 inch steel wheels and fit these hubcaps?) and my understanding is that the strength and quality of these steel wheels is questionable, particularly when compared to something like a genuine minilites. So here are my questions... If money was not a consideration, could someone buy Dunlop M-Type Wheels and have the "world" hub caps retro fitted to them? And even if this was possible would they be considered crazy for modifying a wonderful set of alloys? I am really keen to hear people's thoughts on this. Regards. Paul
  6. dpb

    4A catch up

    Hello I've been away from this forum for about two and a half years, mainly ignoring my 4A in the garage, and looking after various relatives' houses, grandchildren etc. Anyway, I've booked to go France in the summer, and now I'm getting the car ready. One success is getting my car radio to work with a Bluetooth speaker - getting rid of some cumbersome speakers I had added behind the radio last time I was using it. I bought a small wi-fi transmitter that plugs in to the amp output (or line-out as it used to be called I think), and a small Bluetooth speaker with volume control. Radio now plays over the Bluetooth speaker, and I can pick that speaker up and use it with other devices as needed. Total cost only about £60. One failure is really the spin-on oil filter conversion. I did this about 3 years ago, it has always leaked a little, and spews oil out on startup. I'm going to convert it back to the original. I seem to recall it should have a spring in it, but I couldn't find it after I took it all out. Anybody done this re-conversion? Does it have a spring in? And one current problem- car will start but is only running on 3 or possibly only 2 cylinders. I took out all the plugs - all sooty, and cleaned em up, no difference. So my next tasks are a)check spark, b)check petrol, c) check timing. Any other ideas? Regards to all, and hopefully I'm back on TR stuff for a while now. Cheers Dave Boswell
  7. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1965-Triumph-TR4A-Dashboard-Facia/401729317248?hash=item5d88eee980:g:uA0AAOSwccdcimeH
  8. Hello, replacing all the bushes on the front suspension on my 4A, I bought the stuff a couple of years ago and only getting round to it now, there is a bag of 8 seals, Superpro part number SPF2496-8K, I can see where two go, between the vertical link and the trunnion, I can find find no sign where the other 6 (I assume a total of 4 per side) are required, am I missing something?, as always, thanks, Andrew
  9. marko

    45 Weber's

    Here is a pair of very rare Weber 45 DCOE 9 Carbs. Made in Italy, not the cheap Spanish or Portuguese ones. Serial numbers 4557 and 3359 so likely 1970's complete with period SAH inlet manifolds (also rare) and linkages for 4 cylinder TR's. Ideal for fast road or competition use. Inspected and valued at £600 for the Carbs, £250 for the inlet manifolds and £100 for the linkages etc. Sensible offers considered. Look on Ebay, there is a single DCOE459 for £1350!! Grab a bargain
  10. Hello, is there a better arrangement than the Securon retractable, I don't like the fixed as you can't lean forward to 'peep' at a junction, the retractables I find very uncomfortable as they lay over my shoulder and across the neck, I am average height so that's not the problem. I have the main body of the seat belt on the wheel arch so the run is up to my shoulder and across to the middle of the car. I have a ROB fitted so could, if thought worthwhile, fit the retractable part at shoulder height with an appropriate bracket, any thoughts, as always, thanks for your help, Andrew
  11. Hi, My grumbling clutch bearing is grumbling to much to the point where it is making grumble. Is there a simple way to get to it? Or, am I engine/gearbox out? Interior strip out to get to the box etc. Just wondered if there was an easier fix than I think there is? Cheers. Paul.
  12. Hi all, my main question is when buying a new ignition switch should I buy complete with new barrel & key or retrofit my existing key and barrel ( preferred as current key also operates doors.) Also if buying complete with key then which is best, original or aftermarket? The reason for new switch is since fitting a new battery about 4 years ago I have also fitted a new solenoid & new earth leads and car has started fine except for a couple of occasions, the last being in a 40 min stop start traffic jam the other day when I stalled the engine and when I turned the key it just clicked, did this twice and then turned starter and car restarted. Have checked system today and battery has 12.48 volts and when cranking drops to 9.8 turning engine over ok, (original starter, reconditioned 5 years ago)
  13. Around 350 miles ago the water pump which had been on the car for at least 10k miles started leaking from the hole underneath & I noticed a loss of coolant from the radiator. I replaced the unit with a freshly rebuilt quality bearing unit which has also now started to leak after only 30 miles, with the same kind of dribble from the same hole. No different symptoms from the first pump. As well as the water dribble I noticed that around a minute or so after stopping the engine there were a couple of spurts of water out of the hole as if under a bit of pressure? The pump supplier has said that the first failure was due to the new bearings not settling in properly due to perhaps some loosened debris from the engine, maybe a little bit of dislodged rusty stuff? The engine was completely rebuilt around 12k miles ago & is fitted with an alloy radiator & the coolant is very clean & has been thoroughly flushed about 2 years ago with no debris appearing then. Any ideas? If these steel items are failing, even so-called quality items, should I go to an expensive billet alloy unit? Has anybody any experience of the alloy pump & how does it react with say a steel housing? Thanks. t
  14. John h

    Rebuild

    Hi to all well getting close to the end of summer so I thought I would put some pictures on so you can see what I have been up to .Chassis has been repaired reinforced and sandblasted then painted.started to put some bits on but may change tack go back to the body over the winter simply because the chassis at the moment will stand up against a wall . whichever way I go I have lots to do.
  15. I have decided that the rattle from the surrey frame cannot be endured any longer. Rattle rattle rattle.... The problem seems to lie with the rivets holding the 5 sections of the surrey frame together. There are 4 solid dome head rivets that hold the frame together and a thin washer between the moving parts. Does anyone know what size the rivets are and best way to remove and replace them. Don't know whether the holes might be slightly too big for the rivets in there or how tight the frame should be. On re-assembly would PTFE washers be any good bearing in mind that PTFE expands a lot with heat so might not be able to move it at all on a hot day and it would rattle on a cold one. Also any thoughts on what original rivets might be made from? Doesn't look like aluminium and doesn't rust and is shiny. Stainless perhaps? Any ideas or advice please before I take the plunge and take it apart. Keith p.s. mine is cream in colour - is this standard?
  16. Well my simple head off project from last year has ended up with a complete engine rebuild and in inline rebore. So I now have the pleasant prospect of putting it all back together with a new sprint cam, unleaded head conversion etc etc. Its been a while since my Webers were tuned and I am sure that all these changes will need some fine tuning. So the question is do I bother with a rolling road or just a good old fashioned tune up? I live near Reading so any recommendation is this area much appreciated. I should also put in a word for Classic and Modern based in Bracknell who dropped everything to get my rebore on the crank and cam finished in three days! Hopefully the car and I will be ready for the trip to the Le Mans Classic.
  17. Has anybody else noticed the huge price increase of Shell V Power fuel? Just got back from a run today & a refuel cost me 147.9ppl! I think Shell are calling it 'new' V Power! I am calling it something else! The price for normal unleaded from the same garage was 131.9 so the extra octane is costing 0.16ppl more! Cheers.
  18. Sorry chaps I know it has come up before but cannot immediately get the answer on past topics. The state of the roads this afternoon made one of the rear Surrey alloy top fixing bolts drop out! Could not locate the thread at side of the road so thought it had stripped but after taking off the top when getting home I found the bolt screwed in perfectly when it was laid on the ground (it would!) but is a real struggle to locate the thread when on the car, as many others have found. I am now going to fit studs to the rear (fronts fit fine). Can somebody who has fitted studs tell me the size & length of stud I would need & where from? What is the best Loctite to use for stud fixing or should they be welded in? Cheers, thanks & apologies.
  19. Gentlemen, Could someone please let me know the size and thread for the very small screw that attaches the trip rest cable to the speedometer. Thanks Graham
  20. Morning. With the engine running and car stationary there is a grumbling from the gearbox/clutch. Push the clutch in and the noise stops. Release the clutch and it starts again. I can describe the noise as sounding like rotating metal against metal with a light touch. Any thoughts? Best. Paul.
  21. Am looking to install a TR4a top and frame to my TR4. As the B-post fitting of the frame is different, can someone put up a picture of their TR4a in that area? There are two bolts each side which mounts the frame to the B-post, any measurements where both holes are in reference to the post would be ideal. The picture shows the TR4a frame provisionally in place, the bottom hole I used is the same as the bottom used for the TR4 frame. As said not sure if this is anywhere where it should be. Should the top of the bracket be horizontal? Many thanks in advance.
  22. Just thought I would share some information regarding voltage stabilisers. Both Moss and Rimmers specify the part number 128484 for both TR4 and TR4A. However this stabiliser is for positive earth only vehicles (i.e. original TR4 spec). As such they will not work on the TR4A. Instead you should fit the TR5 unit part number 148876A which is for negative earth cars (TR4A and later). This is because these later units have solid state internals and need to be connected with correct polarity. The original stabilisers had a bimetal strip with a heating wire coiled around it. Voltage was regulated by the rapid make and break of the bimetal strip. Didn't matter whether positive or negative earth for those types. Would work either way. Earlier Moss solid state units had part numbers 131-555 for negative earth and 131-556 for positive earth if you have one of those. This all came to light this morning when I turned out the spares in the boot to find that my spare voltage stabiliser was a positive earth rather than negative for my 4A. Also discovered the spare spark plugs had gone rusty and were not the same as in the car and the spare radiator cap had disintegrated. Time for a spares spring clean I think to see what other junk I have been driving around with in the boot. Keith
  23. Advice or thoughts please. Just done a compression test on my '67 TR4A with a warm engine using a Gunson tester. Results as follows: Cyl dry wet 1 150 155 2 160 170 3 160 165 4 160 160 I think the dry results are OK? but should I be concerned with the wet results? I am not aware of any engine mods so assume standard compression ratio and size pistons but cannot be sure. What compression would you expect from perfect engine? Thanks for any input, Ian
  24. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/triumph-tr4a-1966/183348382114?hash=item2ab06a49a2:g:uqoAAOSwbaxbXEjI
  25. Not everyones cup of tea I know, but defo the best way to share generic info and photos. As a life long Michelotti fan and friend of the family I felt it was time to start a FaceBook page dedicated to Michelotti and the 1200 designs of his which became cars as although we love our Triumphs he designed Jaguars and all sorts. Did you know he has 192 Ferrari designs that became cars? Anyway for anyone interested in seeing and sharing there is now a FB group called The Michelotti Cars where fans and car owners can join in. https://www.facebook.com/groups/271937770263969/ All the best and look forward to seeing some of you. Tony
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