Graze Posted November 20, 2016 Report Share Posted November 20, 2016 About to refit everything into the engine bay following having it all repainted while the engine is being re-built Would appreciate photos of well sorted engine bays (not concourse) as mine was a U.S. Car originally and was converted to RH drive many years ago (and much fiddling had been done since) so while I have photos of what was installed, this is my chance to create a tidy good looking engine bay Thanks in advance Email is gs at davissommerville dot com if that's easier Graze Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Graze Posted November 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2016 Oh come on guys 200 views and no one has a photo? Really? Graze Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuartmac Posted November 22, 2016 Report Share Posted November 22, 2016 probably nervous of a bit of constructive criticism - eg - you call that well sorted......... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Geko Posted November 22, 2016 Report Share Posted November 22, 2016 Have you tried googling "Triumph TR4 engine bay" and click "image" ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted November 22, 2016 Report Share Posted November 22, 2016 (edited) These are all I have. Edited November 22, 2016 by peejay4A Quote Link to post Share on other sites
david ferry Posted November 22, 2016 Report Share Posted November 22, 2016 I have these three of one of my cars in build. And these of when my race car was in build. David Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Quicksilver Posted November 22, 2016 Report Share Posted November 22, 2016 (edited) @ David, @ racecar. What kind of construction did you have on the radiator tophose? bypass? Marcel Edited November 23, 2016 by Quicksilver Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MichaelH Posted November 22, 2016 Report Share Posted November 22, 2016 (edited) Photos of both sides of the engine The fuse boxes are on the wrong side because I used a TR5 wiring loom (a mistake) you can see the relays above the fuses on the inner wing - for O/D and spots any questions? Hope it helps MichaelH Edited November 22, 2016 by MichaelH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR 2100 Posted November 22, 2016 Report Share Posted November 22, 2016 Thing is - you want to keep your engine bay 'neat' but you don't tell us what fittings/extras you have. What carbs/manifolds/linkage/alternator? And any other extras. Also, I was going to point out that the wiring loom on earlier TR4s had a different routing and didn't want to post that in case it wasn't relevant. So - I think your question was a bit too general. AlanR Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MichaelH Posted November 22, 2016 Report Share Posted November 22, 2016 Further details of the MichaelH engine picks Different things on my engine bay: The block and the rocker cover vent to the oil catch tank (got it from Chris Carter many moons ago but easy to replicate) The air horns on the passenger side - about £10 from any shop The narrow fan belt uses a front pulley from an MGB but Morris Marina will do also available from all specialists - about £112. Needs a collar to fit the oil seal (TREnterprises ) The coil is attached to a bar with two bolts welded to it through holed in the inner wing (the box section) The oil filter has an adapter attached to standard oil filter head (I stopped using an oil cooler as it is a road car) The distributor - old fashioned 123 - hence the extra curlly wires Magnaflux leads (an expensive luxury The water tank for screen washing is from Durite - the push switch on the dash looks normal but is in fact stuck with aradite to a push on/off electrical switch for screen washing is electric The Revotec electric fan came from Europa specialist spares about £112 The aluminium radiator shroud was home made standard radiator recored by Leics radiators £125 The red plastic safety box round the battery terminal comes from Durite auto electrical parts The alternator is an old (I think from Renault 11) but rubber mounted (from the rallying days) Air filters you can see are K&N Manifold and linkages are standard but I don't used gaskets - high temp silicon You can just see the alternative bonnet opening device - home made (details on TR reg Technicalities TR action 188 page 27 Other things to spot are the Top hat of the Kenlow control with copper tube to front of top hose and finally A piece of hack saw blade which is screwed to the side of the master cylinder holding frame which earths the steering column and earths the horn reliably an don't forget the oil all over the place -as usual Hope this is what people want MichaelH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Graze Posted November 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2016 Michael, David, Peejay Many thanks guys, from those I can make some educated choices on how to proceed alanR - fair point about non standard bits, hadn't considered that, sorry Steph - I did try google but wasn't finding anything helpful, also looked through old magazines I am mainly interested in the wiring, fuse box, relays and piping for fuel and brakes as all the rest is pretty much set - alloy radiator, black alloy shroud - air horns on passenger side - coil mounted on passenger side inner guard - mikuni carbs and custom linkage with K &N filters Thanks again guys Graze Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mark1965TR4aBRG Posted December 12, 2016 Report Share Posted December 12, 2016 (edited) The rad' cowl was off and I need to fit my airbox... Edited December 12, 2016 by Mark1965TR4aBRG Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlfredHitchcock Posted January 3, 2017 Report Share Posted January 3, 2017 Did you get sorted Graze? I have some which might help if you still need any. Nick Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR4A1965 Posted January 4, 2017 Report Share Posted January 4, 2017 There's a few pics of mine 'in the build' here:-) http://tr4a.weebly.com/triumph-tr4a-engine-bay.html Best Paul. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Graze Posted January 11, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2017 (edited) Did you get sorted Graze? I have some which might help if you still need any. Nick thanks Nick its now all together - goes to dyno tune on Friday this is the only photo i have at present will post up some pics and details from the dyno Graze Edited January 11, 2017 by Graze Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Graze Posted January 11, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2017 There's a few pics of mine 'in the build' here:-) http://tr4a.weebly.com/triumph-tr4a-engine-bay.html Best Paul. thanks paul Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Graze Posted February 18, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2017 well thanks for the photos here is how she ended up - second time lucky I'm hoping and here it is on the long way home from the engine builder after we changed the oil & tightened up the head Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted February 18, 2017 Report Share Posted February 18, 2017 (edited) Paul (Graze) What did the dyno run tell you ? H Edited February 18, 2017 by Hamish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Graze Posted February 26, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 26, 2017 Hamish The main point for me on the Reno was to get the AFR correct with the Mikuni carbs It showed 104 bhp at the wheels and 420ftlb torque Car is going well but using a lot of fuel - around 20mpg Graze Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR 2100 Posted February 26, 2017 Report Share Posted February 26, 2017 Car is going well but using a lot of fuel - around 20mpg Graze I wouldn't call that ALL that much. Generally similar to mine though I'm using 42DCOEs and 89mm liners - not sure how that compares with your spec., especially if Mikunis give better/worse economy. I can get 22mpg-ish on a motorway run, a lot less if most miles are around town (and they often are). Seems that Webers need to be set a bit rich at low revs to make sure they don't run lean at high revs (with disastrous consequences). I know others claim much better economy - I often wonder . . . . . AlanR Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted February 26, 2017 Report Share Posted February 26, 2017 420ftlb of torque is massive isn't it ? ???? rolling road useful for fuelling set up whatever the type. H Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted February 26, 2017 Report Share Posted February 26, 2017 I wouldn't call that ALL that much. Generally similar to mine though I'm using 42DCOEs and 89mm liners - not sure how that compares with your spec., especially if Mikunis give better/worse economy. I can get 22mpg-ish on a motorway run, a lot less if most miles are around town (and they often are). Seems that Webers need to be set a bit rich at low revs to make sure they don't run lean at high revs (with disastrous consequences). I know others claim much better economy - I often wonder . . . . . AlanR Mine with Dellorto 40`s and 87+20 averages out at 32mpg on distance and at least 25 with a heavy right foot. Jetting if correct should be good over the whole range. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted February 26, 2017 Report Share Posted February 26, 2017 420ftlb of torque is massive isn't it ? rolling road useful for fuelling set up whatever the type. H Yep more than the classic BMW V8 engines which only has 360 lb ft give or take. I think Graze has misquoted there probably meaning 120 lb ft, a 86mm engine on SUs is likely around 130 lb ft when built carefully. Mick Richards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
signalredshaker Posted February 26, 2017 Report Share Posted February 26, 2017 Just to return to the original post, here are some Standard Triumph photos of both TR4 and 4A engine bays which should help those wanting originality. They were sent to me some years ago by a ST employee who worked in the department that did the drawings for the parts books- he was/is a TR4a owner and was very helpful to me when first rebuilding my car back in the late 1970's. I recall some similar photos appearing in display at the annual meeting (The International) when it was held at Donnington on the Melbourne Loop in around (?) 1978. I also have a few more external shots of the TR4, one hardtop (Surrey) and one with soft top, but no hood fitted. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Graze Posted February 27, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2017 (edited) Yep more than the classic BMW V8 engines which only has 360 lb ft give or take. I think Graze has misquoted there probably meaning 120 lb ft, a 86mm engine on SUs is likely around 130 lb ft when built carefully. Mick Richards Mick I thought it was huge too But I have a graph which shows 420lb - unless I'm reading it wrongly (Mick it says Tractive Effort 420lb ) Car does seem to go quite well Graeme Edited February 27, 2017 by Graze Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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