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About signalredshaker

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    Gods own County

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  1. I am embarking on a winter programme of improvement- aren't all TR owners? Don't forget this is a hobby and I need something to do during the winter - and I have scheduled to have a good look at the engine- its running fine but I've noticed some consistent tapping from the camshaft region which can't be remedied by the adjustment of valve clearances- I intend to look a little further so whilst I am at it, I will inspect the cam followers (as you do); hence my interest. The camshaft was replaced ages ago, although not that many miles it seems but at least 20 years ago. I think that rules out me making a claim against the camshaft supplier. You can see an issue with buying the followers to suit the camshaft- those black ones were not available then so that policy just will not work. Of course if the camshaft is damaged then its simple- order them from the same place. But if it isn't? then what? Black or shiny with hole or without? Or, is there really no perceptible difference (which I suspect) as suggested my Mick. James
  2. To be honest, I'm pretty sure that the different types weren't available when I bought by 'Standard' TR4/4A camshaft from Moss. Just fairly shiny ones with no hole in the lower side area. James
  3. I'm planning to replace my cam followers and am wondering which is best- uprated (with drain hole for oil) Tuftrided, which I'm thinking are the black coloured ones I've seen, or 'ordinary'. Any help would be appreciated. James
  4. I had a very similar problem for months- long travel, soft pedal etc - eventually tracked it down to the amount of travel in the master cylinder area. Solved by purchasing an adjustable master cylinder pushrod from Revington TR. Now I have a hard pedal which is much more confidence-building- even with silicone fluid, which many say gives a spongy feel and longer pedal travel. Not so now. James
  5. signalredshaker


    These pictures should be of some help. Cable enters boss and there the outer cable ends- inner cable continues to square shaped projection on carburettor casting (the one with small hole) - cable then held tight by screw through the latter projection. Make sure carb moving bits are well lubricated and free of any drag. Good luck!
  6. Heavens! That trailing edge bonnet shut line is so very tight! - and what's that screw doing in the top RH side of the dash I wonder? Envy strikes perhaps? Nice car though.
  7. fitted five of the 5' twin type into my garage and although they use about the same energy (Fluorescent tubes are quite efficient) they are much brighter that a 6' twin fitting- or so it seems- and no losses at start up in cold conditions. They are ON at full brightness from the word go and there is no deterioration in light output as the fitting ages. I paid about £50 each on line.
  8. I had this oil leakage from the selector shafts a while back, getting progressively worse, and last year decided to follow Rogers advise and install the two part seals from Mayday Seals (01242 241022). They were an "X" section which required a spacer - AE 122 and the seal Q-112. Since fitting them around 24 months ago the leaks from that area have dried up completely. However, the joint from gearbox to overdrive has started leaking much more since- I shall be removing the gearbox next year but in the meantime resorting to attempting to plug the leak with some form of adhesive from outside. I know- sounds dodgy, but it is temporary, hopefully! Does a dry gearbox actually exist?
  9. The fitting of LED headlight bulbs was previously frowned upon for legal reasons- has the position changed? Also, if these bulbs use less juice does that mean we can dispense with the relays that are presently recommended for TR headlight circuitry? It seems so. Overall, these seem a really good idea as my H4 Cibie units are, when compared with my everyday car's LED headlights, somewhat rubbish even with "improved +40% etc" bulbs fitted.
  10. Ah, well. All those pumps sapping all that power- that's a problem I got around by fitting this natty wind generator to my TR4. It needs a little bracing from the heelboard area bit works really well! I cant say I've noticed much power loss either, as the resultant downside is the cars a little slower. J.
  11. Gosh! I didn't realise Triumph were that clever! Good to know that someone else has got flex in his body- my TR has more as it ages- I have less. Much less. In fact it's not only working out how to do any job below waist level- I'm now planning which tools to take with me when I bend down. J.
  12. Yep. Nylon guide etc are new and in place. I agree, the alignment here is critical and yes, they do slide into one another but there is a tiny amount of deflection somewhere that means that sliding-in varies. I'll look at the body mounting immediately beneath the B post and check all is tight. The chassis is sound but I do believe with the sections as designed there is some flex in every chassis. Yes/No? The thing is as the tongue slides in it gets ever tighter as it closes so its absolutely solid- which is fine, but that seems to vary a little- I'm talking a mm or so here, not 10mm. J.
  13. Yes, those on trailing end of the door and B post. James
  14. My TR4's door restraints are causing me a problem in that sometimes they fit and sometimes not. This seems to depend on which way the wind is blowing but in all probability it may be a function of how much load the car has, hence the amount of flex on the body/chassis. These things don't seem to have any way of adjusting them at all other than adding and subtracting packs etc- unlike the doors they are fitted to where there is ample scope for moving things around. Am I right- is this really a bit of a pig in a poke? Should I forget all about them? James
  15. Price isn't the issue here - quality is. Didn't Mr Royce say "Quality remains long after the price is forgotten" Oh, and the ability of a product at whatever price to perform for a reasonable period of time under present legislation which I think may be 2 years. James
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