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About signalredshaker

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  1. I had a very similar problem for months- long travel, soft pedal etc - eventually tracked it down to the amount of travel in the master cylinder area. Solved by purchasing an adjustable master cylinder pushrod from Revington TR. Now I have a hard pedal which is much more confidence-building- even with silicone fluid, which many say gives a spongy feel and longer pedal travel. Not so now. James
  2. signalredshaker


    These pictures should be of some help. Cable enters boss and there the outer cable ends- inner cable continues to square shaped projection on carburettor casting (the one with small hole) - cable then held tight by screw through the latter projection. Make sure carb moving bits are well lubricated and free of any drag. Good luck!
  3. Heavens! That trailing edge bonnet shut line is so very tight! - and what's that screw doing in the top RH side of the dash I wonder? Envy strikes perhaps? Nice car though.
  4. fitted five of the 5' twin type into my garage and although they use about the same energy (Fluorescent tubes are quite efficient) they are much brighter that a 6' twin fitting- or so it seems- and no losses at start up in cold conditions. They are ON at full brightness from the word go and there is no deterioration in light output as the fitting ages. I paid about £50 each on line.
  5. I had this oil leakage from the selector shafts a while back, getting progressively worse, and last year decided to follow Rogers advise and install the two part seals from Mayday Seals (01242 241022). They were an "X" section which required a spacer - AE 122 and the seal Q-112. Since fitting them around 24 months ago the leaks from that area have dried up completely. However, the joint from gearbox to overdrive has started leaking much more since- I shall be removing the gearbox next year but in the meantime resorting to attempting to plug the leak with some form of adhesive from outside. I know- sounds dodgy, but it is temporary, hopefully! Does a dry gearbox actually exist?
  6. The fitting of LED headlight bulbs was previously frowned upon for legal reasons- has the position changed? Also, if these bulbs use less juice does that mean we can dispense with the relays that are presently recommended for TR headlight circuitry? It seems so. Overall, these seem a really good idea as my H4 Cibie units are, when compared with my everyday car's LED headlights, somewhat rubbish even with "improved +40% etc" bulbs fitted.
  7. Ah, well. All those pumps sapping all that power- that's a problem I got around by fitting this natty wind generator to my TR4. It needs a little bracing from the heelboard area bit works really well! I cant say I've noticed much power loss either, as the resultant downside is the cars a little slower. J.
  8. Gosh! I didn't realise Triumph were that clever! Good to know that someone else has got flex in his body- my TR has more as it ages- I have less. Much less. In fact it's not only working out how to do any job below waist level- I'm now planning which tools to take with me when I bend down. J.
  9. Yep. Nylon guide etc are new and in place. I agree, the alignment here is critical and yes, they do slide into one another but there is a tiny amount of deflection somewhere that means that sliding-in varies. I'll look at the body mounting immediately beneath the B post and check all is tight. The chassis is sound but I do believe with the sections as designed there is some flex in every chassis. Yes/No? The thing is as the tongue slides in it gets ever tighter as it closes so its absolutely solid- which is fine, but that seems to vary a little- I'm talking a mm or so here, not 10mm. J.
  10. Yes, those on trailing end of the door and B post. James
  11. My TR4's door restraints are causing me a problem in that sometimes they fit and sometimes not. This seems to depend on which way the wind is blowing but in all probability it may be a function of how much load the car has, hence the amount of flex on the body/chassis. These things don't seem to have any way of adjusting them at all other than adding and subtracting packs etc- unlike the doors they are fitted to where there is ample scope for moving things around. Am I right- is this really a bit of a pig in a poke? Should I forget all about them? James
  12. Price isn't the issue here - quality is. Didn't Mr Royce say "Quality remains long after the price is forgotten" Oh, and the ability of a product at whatever price to perform for a reasonable period of time under present legislation which I think may be 2 years. James
  13. No, No. Just "standard" coils- intended to be very much like those from the 60's and the original fitment. Nothing to do with ballast resistors. On the subject of naming names I see that it seems to be not the done thing on this forum. That may be to stop some from unfairly rubbishing companies that don't deserve it. I am of the opinion that the TR Register operates for the benefit of its members, not a few (or any) advertisers in our magazine. If that's not the case then we my as well pack up and go home. Therefore,the coil was from TR Revington as it happens, but I have to say this is the first time I have had any reason to send anything back to them that is faulty. Their stuff is generally a cut above the rest although slightly more expensive, its worth it- normally- but not in this case. As I said, they have been first class in dealing with the issue. James
  14. My experience is of partial failures from two major suppliers- M*** and R******'*. The total failure came from T*R*******. I have no doubt that all are from the same wholesaler and that those who supply TR owners need to get together (probably impossible as they are competitors) and give their supplier a sound talking to. The longevity of older coils from the 1960's for example does tell a story doesn't it! Anyway, my replacements are in the process of being fitted- just need to choose a location that makes the second coil less obvious. Will keep you posted. James
  15. I think I am right in saying that all suppliers are aware of the quality shortfall of many components these days (and so are most TR users). Its just a shame that nobody seems to be willing to put some of their profits into developing a decent standard coil that is reliable. My experience was highly dangerous- no chance of limping along when the coil fails totally- it just stopped. I shall be mounting a spare in a position a little cooler than the normal mounting and hoping that I get a few more miles out of the new ones. I am aware btw that I was unlucky, but that's not really the point. Other users be aware! James
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