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About signalredshaker

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  1. On a linked point- has anyone a recommendation as to a supplier of new vinyl type (not double duck) surrey tops. Mine is a poor example from a major supplier which just is so thin and flappy even though its a tight fit. Mine's in white but I guess any manufacturer should be able to supply that colour- its just the quality I'm after. James
  2. If you want to just clean out those crank oilways (and those others in the block) try these- pipe cleaners- about 250mm long from The Range at £1.00 per pack. You can double them up, swap directions to make sure everything is as clean as you can get it and the wire is thin enough to get into that tiny hole on the con rods. Just be careful to not leave anything behind! They are surprisingly effective. And really jazzy colours to brighten up anyone's garage! James
  3. From memory there are two types of seat belt anchor- the one shown in Stuart's photo (and exploded view above) is "late" the other "Z" shape is "early" - both TR4/4A mind, although its fair to suspect that the late type was carried over to the '5. James
  4. I have had a few of mine refurbished by this company- not inexpensive, but one has to pay for a quality job I think. They also were able to supply new chrome bezels of the correct profile for those I have yet to get sorted. Best time to send them is October of course, when their turn around is a bit shorter. My fuel, temperature (send them the sender bulb with your instrument and it will come back calibrated properly) all around £60-70 pounds. My oil temperature instrument was a little dearer but they did replace the whole of the sender "wire"- it came back looking new- and it now works. All those prices were a couple of years ago so may have changed a little. www.speedograph-richfield.com
  5. signalredshaker

    FUL 1C

    Great result for the owner- and the Forum!
  6. I have the following which are all TR4 86mm head gaskets- and all have worked. Marked as follows:- AE330 205481- also marked STANPART and TR3 86mm 2no Completely unmarked but sold as 205481 by a major TR supplier. 2No ditto but supplied by J&M Gaskets & Seals Ltd- much cheaper than any I've previously found, look identical, work fine and around half the cost from memory. 01924 406088. www.jmgaskets-seals.co.uk -no relationship or connection- just fairly near (around 15 miles) to me. James
  7. Well, if you don't have bump stops in place due to there being little room and you then drop a wheel into a pothole- there's your loud bang. Trust me, it is surprisingly loud- and it can happen when there is a raised bump in the road on the downward travel of the suspension. Now, if you ask why thee is so little room I don't actually know except that the springs were new, bought in the early '80's from a shop in Birmingham from Mr C*x. In those days there was no question of whether parts were "right"- it was more a case of getting them at all- and you has to go 100 miles each way to fetch them, there being no 'phone up and deliver them please' service! It will be interesting to see if MikeyB1's shockers are loose or not in any case. James
  8. Well, I did think about this - the car is lowered therefore the chassis is lowered. The wheels largely stay where they are- on the ground. That gives a larger gap between the solid axle and the chassis, therefore less chance of the axle dropping onto the top of the chassis rails and banging. It actually improves the suspension movement and it did work on my car for little cost and effort. The advice about checking the shocker mounting as above is sound as its a very common problem and does make some pretty loud banging. Good luck! James
  9. My guess is that your axle is too close to the chassis. I had exactly the same issue when the wheel dropped down after a hump. My solution was to add a lowering pack set from Revington- one or two shims of around 6mm thickness. I added added two to each side and the problem was gone. U bolts were plenty long enough. The car sits lower but the ride is much better- my car has the springs without the aluminium spacer block by the way. Much better. James
  10. Hey, this must be the thing to do! Went for the chilled iron followers- with hole for extra lubrication and very reasonable cost. Cam is PH1 type- I think the number is Newman list number. James
  11. Penrite GB40 every time. TR Register shop used to sell it but I'm not sure of the present situation. Which was very handy- I could pick some up at the NEC, Stoneleigh etc. and save P+P.
  12. It may be you have the layshaft gears in the wrong way around. It can be done!! James
  13. Actually, I was wrong. Having checked the parts book it fits to the base of the passengers seat using a "lift-the-dot" base- not the tunnel. Don't ask me why. Simple really and very handy to stop a lot of flapping! James
  14. Agree with Bob here- no better experience than driving with a half-open tonneau, which is how they are meant to be used when moving, hence strap from tonneau that fits to transmission tunnel as anti-flapping device. With the heater on full it can get quite cosy beneath that cover! James
  15. What you see in this photo is almost certainly the tonneau cover. The TR4 does not have a hood bag, the hood cover stows in the boot and the hood sticks stay with the car. Great idea if you like getting drenched when putting on the hood cover. James
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