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Everything posted by signalredshaker

  1. I am embarking on a winter programme of improvement- aren't all TR owners? Don't forget this is a hobby and I need something to do during the winter - and I have scheduled to have a good look at the engine- its running fine but I've noticed some consistent tapping from the camshaft region which can't be remedied by the adjustment of valve clearances- I intend to look a little further so whilst I am at it, I will inspect the cam followers (as you do); hence my interest. The camshaft was replaced ages ago, although not that many miles it seems but at least 20 years ago. I think that rules out me making a claim against the camshaft supplier. You can see an issue with buying the followers to suit the camshaft- those black ones were not available then so that policy just will not work. Of course if the camshaft is damaged then its simple- order them from the same place. But if it isn't? then what? Black or shiny with hole or without? Or, is there really no perceptible difference (which I suspect) as suggested my Mick. James
  2. To be honest, I'm pretty sure that the different types weren't available when I bought by 'Standard' TR4/4A camshaft from Moss. Just fairly shiny ones with no hole in the lower side area. James
  3. I'm planning to replace my cam followers and am wondering which is best- uprated (with drain hole for oil) Tuftrided, which I'm thinking are the black coloured ones I've seen, or 'ordinary'. Any help would be appreciated. James
  4. I had a very similar problem for months- long travel, soft pedal etc - eventually tracked it down to the amount of travel in the master cylinder area. Solved by purchasing an adjustable master cylinder pushrod from Revington TR. Now I have a hard pedal which is much more confidence-building- even with silicone fluid, which many say gives a spongy feel and longer pedal travel. Not so now. James
  5. signalredshaker


    These pictures should be of some help. Cable enters boss and there the outer cable ends- inner cable continues to square shaped projection on carburettor casting (the one with small hole) - cable then held tight by screw through the latter projection. Make sure carb moving bits are well lubricated and free of any drag. Good luck!
  6. Heavens! That trailing edge bonnet shut line is so very tight! - and what's that screw doing in the top RH side of the dash I wonder? Envy strikes perhaps? Nice car though.
  7. fitted five of the 5' twin type into my garage and although they use about the same energy (Fluorescent tubes are quite efficient) they are much brighter that a 6' twin fitting- or so it seems- and no losses at start up in cold conditions. They are ON at full brightness from the word go and there is no deterioration in light output as the fitting ages. I paid about £50 each on line.
  8. I had this oil leakage from the selector shafts a while back, getting progressively worse, and last year decided to follow Rogers advise and install the two part seals from Mayday Seals (01242 241022). They were an "X" section which required a spacer - AE 122 and the seal Q-112. Since fitting them around 24 months ago the leaks from that area have dried up completely. However, the joint from gearbox to overdrive has started leaking much more since- I shall be removing the gearbox next year but in the meantime resorting to attempting to plug the leak with some form of adhesive from outside. I know- sounds dodgy, but it is temporary, hopefully! Does a dry gearbox actually exist?
  9. The fitting of LED headlight bulbs was previously frowned upon for legal reasons- has the position changed? Also, if these bulbs use less juice does that mean we can dispense with the relays that are presently recommended for TR headlight circuitry? It seems so. Overall, these seem a really good idea as my H4 Cibie units are, when compared with my everyday car's LED headlights, somewhat rubbish even with "improved +40% etc" bulbs fitted.
  10. Ah, well. All those pumps sapping all that power- that's a problem I got around by fitting this natty wind generator to my TR4. It needs a little bracing from the heelboard area bit works really well! I cant say I've noticed much power loss either, as the resultant downside is the cars a little slower. J.
  11. Gosh! I didn't realise Triumph were that clever! Good to know that someone else has got flex in his body- my TR has more as it ages- I have less. Much less. In fact it's not only working out how to do any job below waist level- I'm now planning which tools to take with me when I bend down. J.
  12. Yep. Nylon guide etc are new and in place. I agree, the alignment here is critical and yes, they do slide into one another but there is a tiny amount of deflection somewhere that means that sliding-in varies. I'll look at the body mounting immediately beneath the B post and check all is tight. The chassis is sound but I do believe with the sections as designed there is some flex in every chassis. Yes/No? The thing is as the tongue slides in it gets ever tighter as it closes so its absolutely solid- which is fine, but that seems to vary a little- I'm talking a mm or so here, not 10mm. J.
  13. Yes, those on trailing end of the door and B post. James
  14. My TR4's door restraints are causing me a problem in that sometimes they fit and sometimes not. This seems to depend on which way the wind is blowing but in all probability it may be a function of how much load the car has, hence the amount of flex on the body/chassis. These things don't seem to have any way of adjusting them at all other than adding and subtracting packs etc- unlike the doors they are fitted to where there is ample scope for moving things around. Am I right- is this really a bit of a pig in a poke? Should I forget all about them? James
  15. Price isn't the issue here - quality is. Didn't Mr Royce say "Quality remains long after the price is forgotten" Oh, and the ability of a product at whatever price to perform for a reasonable period of time under present legislation which I think may be 2 years. James
  16. No, No. Just "standard" coils- intended to be very much like those from the 60's and the original fitment. Nothing to do with ballast resistors. On the subject of naming names I see that it seems to be not the done thing on this forum. That may be to stop some from unfairly rubbishing companies that don't deserve it. I am of the opinion that the TR Register operates for the benefit of its members, not a few (or any) advertisers in our magazine. If that's not the case then we my as well pack up and go home. Therefore,the coil was from TR Revington as it happens, but I have to say this is the first time I have had any reason to send anything back to them that is faulty. Their stuff is generally a cut above the rest although slightly more expensive, its worth it- normally- but not in this case. As I said, they have been first class in dealing with the issue. James
  17. My experience is of partial failures from two major suppliers- M*** and R******'*. The total failure came from T*R*******. I have no doubt that all are from the same wholesaler and that those who supply TR owners need to get together (probably impossible as they are competitors) and give their supplier a sound talking to. The longevity of older coils from the 1960's for example does tell a story doesn't it! Anyway, my replacements are in the process of being fitted- just need to choose a location that makes the second coil less obvious. Will keep you posted. James
  18. I think I am right in saying that all suppliers are aware of the quality shortfall of many components these days (and so are most TR users). Its just a shame that nobody seems to be willing to put some of their profits into developing a decent standard coil that is reliable. My experience was highly dangerous- no chance of limping along when the coil fails totally- it just stopped. I shall be mounting a spare in a position a little cooler than the normal mounting and hoping that I get a few more miles out of the new ones. I am aware btw that I was unlucky, but that's not really the point. Other users be aware! James
  19. If you buy a coil from any of the usual suppliers these days (including ones which I trust more than others) don't expect it to last more than around a week! I had to take advantage of the breakdown cover I have last Sunday when returning from TRR International at Lincoln. My new coil had covered around 120 miles before total failure- and yes, condenser, points etc were all new (from Distributor Doctor) and correctly set up at the same time. The supplier in question has apologised profusely and made an acceptable offer of a free replacement. I shall be fitting a second coil close by just in case.
  20. Is there any risk of a spark (static electricity from clothing and and all that when the key hits the lock) causing a bang?
  21. Don't you feel such a twit when you forget an attachment!
  22. Just to say I have just fitted one of these from Racetorations. Pricey, but a great fit. Somewhat thin in a few places and almost see through in one or two. No detriment as I have covered the lot with 3mm Silent-Coat in the hope this will stop the noise a bit. Mine came without rubber bungs for the three holes that were pre-cut (propshaft, O/D operating shaft and gearbox filler) but they soon followed at no cost. All looks good so far but yet to try removal of either part. James
  23. This has got completely out of hand. Wake me up when its all over will you? I blame the EU. Oh, and that woman from Kraft who ruined my enjoyment of Cadbury's chocolate! James
  24. Have the AA or RAC been asked about this I wonder? Would they know?
  25. I think I made it clear from my post that I am a supporter of better safety by retaining those LED's which work and only sending back those that don't. If that means risking a fine for having these then so be it. I'm pretty sure that not all the safety-critical parts we fit to our classics are "type approved" or whatever. The link I posted is factual. James
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