rog1 Posted September 30, 2016 Report Share Posted September 30, 2016 Having finally gotten round to removing gearbox & replacing my clutch last week (thanks Neil aka ntc, for your advice) I've moved onto the front suspension. I had in mind to be changing shocks/springs and bushes but now, having read a few posts (and a bit more focused on this now the clutch is sorted) I realise there are potentially a lot of other items/issues to address while I'm there. Would be good to hear any tips/suggestions/links to useful posts/articles etc. and probably more importantly, best source of replacement parts etc. I know these questions have been asked b4 but current parts quality issues would potentially concern me. The car last had an MOT in 2000 (garage stored since) I've got new standard shocks/springs and superflex bushes and have already angle ground the shock top nut and arb link bottom bolt off the nearside, so I guess I can expect to find more rusty/seized elements as I progress. Don't really want to be revisiting this too often and I haven't done the rear yet either! Thanks Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
pfenlon Posted September 30, 2016 Report Share Posted September 30, 2016 If your using super pro they seem to be the preferred bushes to use, the trunnions are the only other bit to look at as far as wear is concerned. Rubber products just crack and are useless before your restoration is finished, don't ask how I know. Others may pitch in with more useful advice, I am renovating mine too so shall await the results with interest. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rog1 Posted September 30, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 30, 2016 Thanks Pete. Super Pro as opposed to Superflex is one concern already, Alec & Stuart have mentioned this on quite a few posts, same thing different name and price? Best source of trunnions to date etc.? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DaveN Posted September 30, 2016 Report Share Posted September 30, 2016 If there's no wear in the trunnions I wouldn't replace them! Clean them up, polish them too if you want them all blingy. Close visual inspection with a x10 magnifying glass on the threaded portion of the vertical link to check for corrosion, followed by crack checking. Relube and refit. If they are u/s go for quality over price, forged rather than cast. There are some nasty cheap ones about. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sapphire72 Posted October 1, 2016 Report Share Posted October 1, 2016 This is an amazingly useful tool, recently purchased. It is a trunnion oiler. Unscrew the top, pour in your fresh 85w/90 gear oil, fit the end over the trunnion nipple, and push in on the top end. The oil is forced into the trunnion. The old yucky lube is forced out the bottom, followed by the excess new oil. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richard71 Posted October 1, 2016 Report Share Posted October 1, 2016 Hi Roger, I recently overhauled my front suspension. Stuart advised me to pay some attention to the outboard ends of the lower wishbones and check for ovality, I did and mine were all scrap. I sourced 2nd hand and NOS replacements and rebuilt the suspension with Nylatron bushes which I can't yet give an opinion on as the car still isn't driveable. Richard. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR NIALL Posted October 1, 2016 Report Share Posted October 1, 2016 Roger,if replacing Springs please use the correct type of Spring Compressor/Threaded Bar as anything else is Dangerous,also don't get your Top Arms mixed up,Front and Back are different. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waldi Posted October 1, 2016 Report Share Posted October 1, 2016 I'm working on the frontsuspension too. My lower wishbone outer ends are oval too, about 1 mm, probably because the nylon bushes were worn out, resulting in the metal bushes wearing out the wishbone arms. Since there appears enough metal left on the arms, I was considering using liquid metal to fill the bores and make them round. After this is hardened out it would not add to the strength off course, but would make the new nylon bushes seat properly. Road use only, no racing plans. Any experienced with this method? Cheers, Waldi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted October 1, 2016 Report Share Posted October 1, 2016 I'm working on the frontsuspension too. My lower wishbone outer ends are oval too, about 1 mm, probably because the nylon bushes were worn out, resulting in the metal bushes wearing out the wishbone arms. Since there appears enough metal left on the arms, I was considering using liquid metal to fill the bores and make them round. After this is hardened out it would not add to the strength off course, but would make the new nylon bushes seat properly. Road use only, no racing plans. Any experienced with this method? Cheers, Waldi I dont know if they still do it but Revingtons used to offer a bushing service for the arms. It surprising how many are oval due to people not replacing the plastic bushes in time. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TRsixchris Posted October 1, 2016 Report Share Posted October 1, 2016 I used Superflex throughout when I restored my GT6 and found them to be excellent fit and quality. I will be fitting them to my TR as required. Certainly wouldn't be concerned about using them or going to the expense of replacing with a different make. Chris Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rog1 Posted October 1, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 1, 2016 Thanks all. Will have a good look at the lower wishbones. I've bought M12 high tensile studding and long nuts for the spring compressor tool. If, as I see some folks have, use steel box section to go under the spring pan, what thickness is recommended if using mild steel? Regards Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waldi Posted October 1, 2016 Report Share Posted October 1, 2016 Stuart, Thanks. I notice Revington sells secondhand inspected and powdercoated arms for 50 pound each, not too bad, but I need 4. Think I will try the liquid metal repair first. Waldi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richard71 Posted October 1, 2016 Report Share Posted October 1, 2016 I dont know if they still do it but Revingtons used to offer a bushing service for the arms. It surprising how many are oval due to people not replacing the plastic bushes in time. Stuart. Stuart, I spoke to Revingtons at the time I was refurbishing, they no longer provide the service and when they did I'm sure they told me it was for 2's & 3's only??? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Clarkey Posted October 1, 2016 Report Share Posted October 1, 2016 (edited) Thanks all. Will have a good look at the lower wishbones. I've bought M12 high tensile studding and long nuts for the spring compressor tool. If, as I see some folks have, use steel box section to go under the spring pan, what thickness is recommended if using mild steel? Regards Roger Roger Be very very very careful, try and see if you can find some one with the proper tool, ask around your local group. there is a hell of a lot of stored pressure in a spring under tension, unless you can be sure of the correct rating of the threaded bar and the nuts you would be advised to stay clear. there are some really really **** nuts and threaded bar around, some of it has if your lucky the strength of toffee I am about to embark on this journey and had thought about doing the threaded bar route.(very very very knowledgable member of this forum told me not even to think about it ) thankfully my local garage have said tool and are lending it to me . I am sure some of our more qualified engineers will be able to add more info Edited October 1, 2016 by Clarkey Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waldi Posted October 1, 2016 Report Share Posted October 1, 2016 Roger, If you need to remove the springs buy a set of spring-(de)compressors, they are not expensive and enable you to do a safe job. Safety first! Below is a link to a Dutch shop, I'm sure there are similar shops where you live. Waldi https://www.hbm-machines.com/producten/werkplaatsinrichting/schobreker-de-montagesets/hbm-veerspanner-set-van-2-stuks Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted October 1, 2016 Report Share Posted October 1, 2016 The only way end of Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ptjs1 Posted October 1, 2016 Report Share Posted October 1, 2016 Roger, I'm also following your thread as I'm about to start the re-strip and re-build of my front suspension following its rebuild and 26-year layup. I'm also interested in views on quality of parts, choice of 'urethane bushes etc. I'm going to replace the rubbers with 'urethane but may try and re-use the trunnions and balljoints once I've cleaned and re-greased them. I'm very nervous about the quality of parts available today compared to when i bought new items 26 years ago. If you do a search, you'll know that there are many threads on spring compressor tools. If you're going to make one, I would suggest going over the top on specification. You just can't use the type of compressors that Waldi has suggested; they don't fit. I have made a tool but I've used M16 high-tensile threaded rod (use at least Grade 8.8 whatever size rod you use), two large nuts on each end, min of two large washers to allow slip, a 1/4/" steel plate that is shaped to fit the lower spring pan with holes for the studs + oval slot for the bar to pass through, a large shaped hemispherical washer to allow as flat alignment as possible on lower plate. I've then drilled each end of the rod and inserted R-clips to give some little contingency if it does strip. With the rod readily greased, that's the minimum that I now feel comfortable with. 26 years ago, I did it, as per the brown book just using a trolley jack, and won't be risking that again! I'm still amazed that the book recommended this approach! Have you thought about upgraded hubs and shafts or are you staying with original? Good luck Paul Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rog1 Posted October 1, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 1, 2016 Thanks Paul. Have sent you a PM. Interested in your bottom plate. I bought the high tensile rod from Namrick so would expect it to be of good quality. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Quicksilver Posted October 1, 2016 Report Share Posted October 1, 2016 Roger it is easy, How to ... see link; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7js8y9rMXzk Marcel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted October 1, 2016 Report Share Posted October 1, 2016 Roger, If you need to remove the springs buy a set of spring-(de)compressors, they are not expensive and enable you to do a safe job. Safety first! Below is a link to a Dutch shop, I'm sure there are similar shops where you live. Waldi https://www.hbm-machines.com/producten/werkplaatsinrichting/schobreker-de-montagesets/hbm-veerspanner-set-van-2-stuks Do not even think of using these they do not work on a TR and would likely kill you if you tried to use them. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted October 1, 2016 Report Share Posted October 1, 2016 If you have to renew your trunnions while you have it all stripped then buy the more expensive Moss ones, they are very good unlike the offerings from others. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rog1 Posted October 1, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 1, 2016 (edited) Thanks Stuart, well aware of that. (spring compressor) Don't wish to be passing the car on through my will before I've finished it! Cheers Edited October 1, 2016 by rog1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waldi Posted October 2, 2016 Report Share Posted October 2, 2016 Hi Stuart, What is wrong with the springcompressor I referred to? I have used it several times, last time on a Healey. Like to understand why. Thanks, Waldi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted October 2, 2016 Report Share Posted October 2, 2016 (edited) The TR spring coils are too close together to allow them to grip properly and they tend to move around the spring as you tighten them. Dangerous. Avoid. Edited October 2, 2016 by peejay4A Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waldi Posted October 2, 2016 Report Share Posted October 2, 2016 Ah ok, I will buy/make the single bar compressor that sits in the middle, of proper diameter and tensike strenght. Thanks for the warning. Again shows the value of this forum. Waldi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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