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Interesting Simon, i actually recently did a nut and bolt check on a new build, alot of them needed attention !

 

When will we see Nordlock on the shelves ?

Cheers,

Conrad.

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Don they skirt round lock tabs and wire locking as their implementation is ctime costly and requires skills

Conrad they are on the bay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/181640054072?adgroupid=13585920426&hlpht=true&hlpv=2&rlsatarget=pla-131843260866&adtype=pla&ff3=1&lpid=122&poi=&ul_noapp=true&limghlpsr=true&device=c&chn=ps&campaignid=207297426&crdt=0&ff12=67&ff11=ICEP3.0.0-L&ff14=122&viphx=1&ops=true&ff13=80

 

do the bolt/nut threads stretch as you undo the things?

 

Peter W

 

PS Bellville washers anyone? http://www.bellevillesprings.com/

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I've used Nordlocks under extreme conditions on aircraft test rigs and they perform as advertised.......and disassemble with a heck of a crack.

Tab washers and wire locking prevent loss of the nuts but even the best installation allows enough movement to considerably reduce clamping force.

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Like Andrew, I'm not happy with tab washers and wire-locking because they cannot prevent a small movement and hence a loss of clamping force.

Wire locking is useful to prevent loss of the nut/bolt - I use it on the very large hexagon on the underside of the overdrive, and the bolts securing the generator bracket to the cylinder block (because one of the bolt hole goes direct to the inside of the block and can empty a lot of oil if it goes AWOL - happened on my brother's TR3).

I prefer nyloc nuts (where a nut is used), or a spring washer or Lock'N'Seal (or both) where a bolt is going into a tapped hole.

Ian Cornish

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I wonder in how far the modern nylocs are heat resistant. In the 70 I removed a lot of nuts and bolts from a DC7C aircraft and I noticed that the inserts on the nuts were all made of fibre or they were fitted with a split top section. They were probably designed to accept quite an amount of heat input.

 

Some of the small bolts are used on my 6... some came from underwing inspection doors/panels and probably have seen the whole world from above.. :D

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Hi Jean,

the split lock nut (nylok without the plastic) are really good but nobody on the high street sells them. They can withstand any temp.

The ordinary nylok does not like too much heat at all.

 

There are a number of aircraft fasteners that would work well on out cars.

 

Roger

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Hi Jean,

the split lock nut (nylok without the plastic) are really good but nobody on the high street sells them. They can withstand any temp.

The ordinary nylok does not like too much heat at all.

 

There are a number of aircraft fasteners that would work well on out cars.

 

Roger

That'll be Aerotight nuts Roger from LAS or the local exhaust centre where down pipes are often attached by all steel stiff nuts - beware of metric!

 

Moss sell the Philidas type steel lock nuts GHF241 = 1/4, GHF242 = 5/16, GHF243 = 3/8, GHF242 = 7/16 - get the sequence?

 

Cheers

Peter W

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...Moss sell the Philidas type steel lock nuts GHF241 = 1/4, GHF242 = 5/16, GHF243 = 3/8, GHF242 = 7/16 - get the sequence?...

 

Ummm... no, actually, I don't! :)

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Hi Graeme,

I wish I had looked at the Moss Cat before posting. But the Moss ones are slightly different to the Aerospace ones.

 

Roger

 

Hi Roger,

 

Ha ha, yes, I realise that, as I have a number of very expensive nuts from RR Avon engines in the garage. It's funny how if you put things in a plastic bag with a RR badge on it they suddenly multiply in value.

 

But, the Moss ones should do the job for a TR. :)

 

Cheers

 

Graeme

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Ha

 

For price inflation check out anything made of stainless steel for the marine industry, A2 or A4!

 

Phil

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