Percy TR6 Posted June 24, 2015 Report Share Posted June 24, 2015 Took Percy for his MOT yesterday. He passed with one advisory - slight play in both rear hubs. I have no idea what would cause play in my rear hubs but was wondering if this is something that might be easy to address? I've had a look through the Brown book and a Haynes manual but can't see any obvious references. Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobinTR6 Posted June 24, 2015 Report Share Posted June 24, 2015 Generally if they have play in them it will get worse over time and eventually need replacing. Its a bit of a rats nest this as quite a few have had rebuilt hubs that havent been much better than their old ones. Dont think thers anything you can do to fix as it needs a 20 ton press and even then most say it needs an expert to do. They arent too difficult to replace and you need to be careful that you dont strip the ally housing in the trailing arm. Have a search on here as thers plenty of info about issues, replacing and not very good reconditioned ones. You can buy uprated hubs etc from the usunal suspects but that not a cheap option. It may not be obvious but you dont want them failing as you can lose a wheel in the process so I'd be researching where to get decent replacements sooner rather than later. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted June 24, 2015 Report Share Posted June 24, 2015 Hi Steve, the hubs do eventually wear out. Some posters have reported to say they have tweaked the big nut on the back of the hub (one tightens, the other locks) but this is contrary to the workshop manual - you only have one go at tightening and that is during a rebuild. Various garages can press the old bearing out for you (Engunuity in London is one). Replacement hubs can be obtained - TRshop do some good ones at a fair price. As Robin says - becareful of the trailing arm when tightening the hub nuts. If the studs pull out or the toruqe loading can't be achieved then fit Helicoils. Regarding the play - make sure it is the hub bearings and not loose hub nuts or wheel nuts etc. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Percy TR6 Posted June 24, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2015 Regarding the play - make sure it is the hub bearings and not loose hub nuts or wheel nuts etc. Roger Thanks for the feedback chaps. I will check the hub nuts & wheel nuts as well as researching replacements. I have noticed an occasional knocking sound from the area of the offside rear wheel when going over bumps.......I'm now wondering if something is more loose than the MOT picked up?!? Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
250 Posted June 24, 2015 Report Share Posted June 24, 2015 Sure its not the UJ's rather than the hub? Mark. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kevo_6 Posted June 24, 2015 Report Share Posted June 24, 2015 Thanks for the feedback chaps. I have noticed an occasional knocking sound from the area of the offside rear wheel when going over bumps.......I'm now wondering if something is more loose than the MOT picked up?!? Steve Hi Steve I had a similar knocking noise, have a look at the thread that I started. http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/52581-diff-bushes/ Not sure if it's cured the knocking noise yet though. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sapphire72 Posted June 24, 2015 Report Share Posted June 24, 2015 (edited) You can test the rear hubs, quite easily. Raise the TR6 rear wheels off the Earth. A few inches is enough. Grasp the tire at opposite sides (9 o'clock & 3 o'clock, for example). Try to shake the tire, or rock it back & forth. If there is any movement, you better get new hubs pronto. Loosing a rear wheel at speed can spoil your day. Edited June 24, 2015 by Sapphire72 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andy Moltu Posted June 24, 2015 Report Share Posted June 24, 2015 Be careful who you get to change the hub bearing. Ideally a Triumph specialist (they are the same on the Stags and 2000/2500s) who do it themselves. There is a knack and if you don't know it and use brute force the stub axle can be terminally weakened. The risk of an exchange unit is that it will have been sent off and had the old bearing pressed out by a YTS using a huge press. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Percy TR6 Posted June 24, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2015 Hi Steve I had a similar knocking noise, have a look at the thread that I started. http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/52581-diff-bushes/ Not sure if it's cured the knocking noise yet though. Kevo - I am under the impression that the bushes are all poly....but wouldn't swear by it. I guess its time to have a wee play and looksee. Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Percy TR6 Posted June 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2015 Well, the only thing worse than a problem is a problem you can't identify. Checked the wheel nuts this morning - all good and tight. So, jacked it up and wiggled the wheels. No apparent movement unless I wiggle them so hard the whole car shakes. Took the wheels off. Hub nuts seem fine and a visual inspection round about revealed nothing more than a worn rubber bush on the offside rear damper link. No further forward. I guess the next step is to go back to the guy who did the MOT and quiz him about how he came to the conclusion there is slight play in the rear hubs and see if that helps. I mentioned noises coming from the rear quarter yesterday. Having read a few other posts I thought I should say that the noises I hear are not squeals or squeaks of a bearing nature but occasional clunks - only heard when going at low speed over bumps/potholes. It sounds as if something solid is bashing into something else solid but everything down below seems to be secure. I'm wondering if it may be the jack or tools bouncing in the boot - sounds a bit far fetched, I know, but I will empty the boot and see if it goes away. Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR NIALL Posted June 25, 2015 Report Share Posted June 25, 2015 Check rear Diff Bushes,the Centre Bush pulls out of the Rubber. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted June 25, 2015 Report Share Posted June 25, 2015 also check the exhaust is not touching anywhere. Tools in the boot often go clunk. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Percy TR6 Posted September 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 30, 2015 Hi all, After rooting around for possible causes to this, I am not much further forward. The sound sounds as if its coming from the area around the bottom rear end of the drivers door. Its only noticeable at low speeds when going over potholes (its probably there at higher speeds too but masked by other noises). The nearest bit of moving structure I can identify is the rear trailing arm. Could it be worn bushes? Is that a place to start? Any suggestions would be gratefully received! Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted September 30, 2015 Report Share Posted September 30, 2015 What's the condition of the chassis at that point? It's a favourite rot spot. Also check that the TA brackets are tightly fixed. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted September 30, 2015 Report Share Posted September 30, 2015 Hi Steve, before my MOT this year (August) I thought I could feel a slight play in the rear offside hub. Spun the wheel and it was OK. The MOT man also thought he could feel play (no input from me) - advisory issued. When I got home I gave it a TRy and nothing was noted - no play no noise. However occasionally I am aware of a noise - slight rumble, may be not. Recheck for play - nothing. My conclusion is that the hub is on its way out. As the hubs are apprx 50 years old I am going to change both for NEW items. Dodgy bearings I can live with but snapping stub axles is another thing. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jemgee Posted September 30, 2015 Report Share Posted September 30, 2015 Back in 2004 I had a rythmic clunk which happened only at about 40mph from the nearside rear. I had changed to telescopics with CTM brackets and had changed all the UJ's At Malvern I jacked the wheel up and could feel no play or anything else. After the horror stories of stub axles breaking I managed to get a good recon hub from a RedRose member. Back home after a worried drive, i took the hub off. Turning it the feeling was like the bearing was a threepenny bit so I suggest getting it off to really feel if its ok Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dingle Posted September 30, 2015 Report Share Posted September 30, 2015 The knocking when going over bumps could be caused by loose shock absorber mounting bolts. Even a slight looseness can cause very worrisome noises. Some people even add jam nuts after tightening. Berry Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bodiam Posted September 30, 2015 Report Share Posted September 30, 2015 Steve, I had a low speed knock when going over rough surfaces and, like you, spent ages checking and tightening every nut and bolt I could find. In the end, adjusting the driver's door striker plate fixed it! A bit simplistic, I know, but occasionally the solution doesn't need an arm and a leg spent on it (though it usually does, as I know to my cost!) Good luck with it, John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tim D. Posted September 30, 2015 Report Share Posted September 30, 2015 Definitely inspect tubular shock mounts. Mine gave me repeated trouble this year until I fitted longer bolts and a nylock. Other possibility is that the rear chassis mounts have come adrift. Mine loosened when the new chassis settled and I got a nice clunk Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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