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Percy TR6

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  • Location
    Edinburgh, Scotland
  • Cars Owned:
    Rugby, Cars & Beer - not always in that order and not all at the same time!

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  1. Hi All... following a nice day out in the car last week, I stopped for a coffee and when I came back out it wouldn’t start. The key was simply turning in the ignition switch! Looking at the back of the switch I could see that the brown wire had melted the insulation at the spade connector. This must have been an issue for a while as the innards of the switch had perished too! New switch ordered but 2 questions: 1) What would cause this to overheat? A bad connection I assume but is it safe to assume that was down to a failing switch or problem elsewhere? 2) In replacing the
  2. Thank you RobH - will take a look now It is on both dipped and high so will start with the Earth. Steve
  3. Hi All.... been a while since I was on here but need some advice on what I am sure is an easy question (if you know the answer!) My passenger side headlight went really dim a couple of days ago. I assumed the bulb was on its way out so replaced it - but the replacement(s) are just as dim. Given that, my next assumption is that it must be a loose/poor connection somewhere. Does that sound reasonable? If not, can anyone shed any light on the subject?
  4. Worked a treat. Now on to the other side. Every days a school day. Thanks again guys.
  5. Thanks for the prompt replies. Now to try and get the half installed nyloc off!
  6. Help! ive removed the front offside ball joint as the gaiter was perished and the joint itself wasn’t in great nick Attempting to install the replacement which I thought should be easy enough but I can’t tighten the nyloc which holds the ball joint to the vertical link - the joint itself turns as well as the nut! I had assumed the fitting was tapered and would self grip - an I doing something wrong or could I have been sent the wrong part? I bought it from ANG classic car parts and it claims to be for a TR6 - part number GSJ131 (same as Rimmers) Any suggestions gratefully
  7. Final update... the screws which arrived from Rimmers are indeed M4, as is the new locking peg which they also supplied. However, the original locking peg is definately not M4 - Perhaps M3 if metric but more than likely UNC as previously suggested. Thanks again for all the thoughts and input along the way. Steve
  8. I’ve removed the screw from the other side and I would guess it is 3mm not 4mm if metric. However, as I have been unable to remove the sheared screw from the pin/lock I have ordered a replacement pin & 2 screws from Rimmers. Thanks for all the input. Steve
  9. However, further examination has shown the original screw/bolt has sheared inside the latch mechanism so will try the other side and see how that goes.
  10. Tried M4 but no joy ☹️
  11. Percy TR6

    Screw Size

    One of the screws that connect the handle of the roof locking mechanism to the "lock" has rattled free and is now lost (1973 TR6) According to Rimmers its a metric screw and I could order one from them but given it will cost several times more for postage than the price of the screw itself, and will take 3 days to get to me, I thought I might just go buy one locally. However, I can't find anything to tell me what size it is. Does anyone know? Screw - Countersunk - Metric - SF104123 Thanks, Steve
  12. My OD (J type) shares a fuse with the indicators and the fuel gauge. An exposed wire on the indicator mechanism within the steering column was causing a short and blowing the fuse - which meant I lost fuel gauge, indicators and OD - so a check of the fuses would be my first point of call.
  13. Just a quick update on this...have replaced the diff & rear hubs, last week we drove the car from Edinburgj to Lands End to John O’Groats and back to Edinburgh without a hitch. The journey was 1659 miles and took us 33 hours door to door, with just under 30 of those actually driving. The only casualty was a cracked headlight lens. A real testament to these old cars. Steve
  14. Well, Ive drained the tank & forced out as much as I can with compressed air, stuck a little unleaded in & drained that too. Cleaned the pre-filter and filled up with unleaded. Couple of puffs of smoke in the first half mile but nothing thereafter, so hopefully disaster averted.
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