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Location
Edinburgh, Scotland
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Cars Owned:
Rugby, Cars & Beer - not always in that order and not all at the same time!
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Percy TR6 started following Installing Front Ball Joints, Ignition Switch and One dim headlight
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Hi All... following a nice day out in the car last week, I stopped for a coffee and when I came back out it wouldn’t start. The key was simply turning in the ignition switch! Looking at the back of the switch I could see that the brown wire had melted the insulation at the spade connector. This must have been an issue for a while as the innards of the switch had perished too! New switch ordered but 2 questions: 1) What would cause this to overheat? A bad connection I assume but is it safe to assume that was down to a failing switch or problem elsewhere? 2) In replacing the
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Sorted! Thanks for the help
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Thank you RobH - will take a look now It is on both dipped and high so will start with the Earth. Steve
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Hi All.... been a while since I was on here but need some advice on what I am sure is an easy question (if you know the answer!) My passenger side headlight went really dim a couple of days ago. I assumed the bulb was on its way out so replaced it - but the replacement(s) are just as dim. Given that, my next assumption is that it must be a loose/poor connection somewhere. Does that sound reasonable? If not, can anyone shed any light on the subject?
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Worked a treat. Now on to the other side. Every days a school day. Thanks again guys.
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Thanks for the prompt replies. Now to try and get the half installed nyloc off!
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Help! ive removed the front offside ball joint as the gaiter was perished and the joint itself wasn’t in great nick Attempting to install the replacement which I thought should be easy enough but I can’t tighten the nyloc which holds the ball joint to the vertical link - the joint itself turns as well as the nut! I had assumed the fitting was tapered and would self grip - an I doing something wrong or could I have been sent the wrong part? I bought it from ANG classic car parts and it claims to be for a TR6 - part number GSJ131 (same as Rimmers) Any suggestions gratefully
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Final update... the screws which arrived from Rimmers are indeed M4, as is the new locking peg which they also supplied. However, the original locking peg is definately not M4 - Perhaps M3 if metric but more than likely UNC as previously suggested. Thanks again for all the thoughts and input along the way. Steve
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I’ve removed the screw from the other side and I would guess it is 3mm not 4mm if metric. However, as I have been unable to remove the sheared screw from the pin/lock I have ordered a replacement pin & 2 screws from Rimmers. Thanks for all the input. Steve
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However, further examination has shown the original screw/bolt has sheared inside the latch mechanism so will try the other side and see how that goes.
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One of the screws that connect the handle of the roof locking mechanism to the "lock" has rattled free and is now lost (1973 TR6) According to Rimmers its a metric screw and I could order one from them but given it will cost several times more for postage than the price of the screw itself, and will take 3 days to get to me, I thought I might just go buy one locally. However, I can't find anything to tell me what size it is. Does anyone know? Screw - Countersunk - Metric - SF104123 Thanks, Steve
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My OD (J type) shares a fuse with the indicators and the fuel gauge. An exposed wire on the indicator mechanism within the steering column was causing a short and blowing the fuse - which meant I lost fuel gauge, indicators and OD - so a check of the fuses would be my first point of call.
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Just a quick update on this...have replaced the diff & rear hubs, last week we drove the car from Edinburgj to Lands End to John O’Groats and back to Edinburgh without a hitch. The journey was 1659 miles and took us 33 hours door to door, with just under 30 of those actually driving. The only casualty was a cracked headlight lens. A real testament to these old cars. Steve
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Well, Ive drained the tank & forced out as much as I can with compressed air, stuck a little unleaded in & drained that too. Cleaned the pre-filter and filled up with unleaded. Couple of puffs of smoke in the first half mile but nothing thereafter, so hopefully disaster averted.