Percy TR6

Worked a treat. Now on to the other side. Every days a school day. Thanks again guys.

Thanks for the prompt replies. Now to try and get the half installed nyloc off!

Help! ive removed the front offside ball joint as the gaiter was perished and the joint itself wasn’t in great nick Attempting to install the replacement which I thought should be easy enough but I can’t tighten the nyloc which holds the ball joint to the vertical link - the joint itself turns as well as the nut! I had assumed the fitting was tapered and would self grip - an I doing something wrong or could I have been sent the wrong part? I bought it from ANG classic car parts and it claims to be for a TR6 - part number GSJ131 (same as Rimmers) Any suggestions gratefully received. Steve

Final update... the screws which arrived from Rimmers are indeed M4, as is the new locking peg which they also supplied. However, the original locking peg is definately not M4 - Perhaps M3 if metric but more than likely UNC as previously suggested. Thanks again for all the thoughts and input along the way. Steve

I’ve removed the screw from the other side and I would guess it is 3mm not 4mm if metric. However, as I have been unable to remove the sheared screw from the pin/lock I have ordered a replacement pin & 2 screws from Rimmers. Thanks for all the input. Steve

However, further examination has shown the original screw/bolt has sheared inside the latch mechanism so will try the other side and see how that goes.

Tried M4 but no joy ☹️

One of the screws that connect the handle of the roof locking mechanism to the "lock" has rattled free and is now lost (1973 TR6) According to Rimmers its a metric screw and I could order one from them but given it will cost several times more for postage than the price of the screw itself, and will take 3 days to get to me, I thought I might just go buy one locally. However, I can't find anything to tell me what size it is. Does anyone know? Screw - Countersunk - Metric - SF104123 Thanks, Steve

My OD (J type) shares a fuse with the indicators and the fuel gauge. An exposed wire on the indicator mechanism within the steering column was causing a short and blowing the fuse - which meant I lost fuel gauge, indicators and OD - so a check of the fuses would be my first point of call.

Just a quick update on this...have replaced the diff & rear hubs, last week we drove the car from Edinburgj to Lands End to John O’Groats and back to Edinburgh without a hitch. The journey was 1659 miles and took us 33 hours door to door, with just under 30 of those actually driving. The only casualty was a cracked headlight lens. A real testament to these old cars. Steve

Well, Ive drained the tank & forced out as much as I can with compressed air, stuck a little unleaded in & drained that too. Cleaned the pre-filter and filled up with unleaded. Couple of puffs of smoke in the first half mile but nothing thereafter, so hopefully disaster averted.

Having finally got the car back up and running (new diff, new rear hubs) I was delighted to wake up to a glorious spring morning - the perfect opportunity to fill the tank and take the car for a good run. As I imagined the wonderful roads I could take, I realised I had just filled up with diesel. I didn't start the car and got a recovery truck to take us home when I now plan to drain the tank. Having done so, my plan will be to fill it with petrol, not letting it drop below half full for a few tankfuls in order to dilute any residue as much as possible. However, I was wondering if anyone would suggest any other steps to clean the tank etc? Steve

Roger - as long as they don't make the same noise, I'll be happy!!!

Looking at new ones from Moss, Roger I have no idea how old the diff is - its definitely not original - but I'm guessing I missed the early signs and one thing led to another. As GT6M pointed out, it could have been a lot worse if some of the sizeable chunks of metal floating around in there got caught up where they shouldn't have been. Trying hard to count my blessings!

New (recon) diff now received, installed & fed with oil Started car and all sounded healthy. Reconnected the hubs, started up again and back to sounding rough - not nearly as bad as before but the hubs are notchy when rotated by hand. Now removing the hubs and ordering replacements ...hopefully that will be the end of it. Hey Ho.