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I suggest that you'll find decent folks for and against each of the possible bearing options . . . .

 

Do check the dates on some of the articles, comments from a decade or more ago are not necessarily accurate in the context of current production.

 

B&B covers evolved over the years, chassis and diaphragm alike, and I find the original type from the late 60s/early70s seem to perform better than the subsequent (TR7 type) covers in the IRS TR application.

 

US and German measurements of clutch poundage that I've seen in the past have referred to used covers . . . . whereas my own comments over the years have referred to measurement of new unused old stock covers. I am not therefore surprised that my past findings do not align with some of the observations from North America.

 

I still reckon the fine detail of installation practice is more relevant than the actual bearing . . . .

 

Cheers

 

Alec

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You may be right Alec, but my RHP experience is a bearing supplied six months ago and used for the first time this last week, squealing like a pig.

 

My Koyo, installed correctly in my TR4A about five years ago and inspected two years ago when the engine was stripped, is showing no signs of wear on the B&B cover plate.

 

It is important that the bearing is not left to rub against the cover and a spring fitted to the slave cylinder to pull the bearing away.

 

Cheers

 

Graeme

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Roger, I have used Koyo bearings twice without issue, good luck.

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Coming a bit late to this thread, but my 5 had a B &B friction plate under a Laycock cover courtesy of the PO. While it gave a lovely soft action and was pleasure to drive, it didn't make 30,000 miles.

 

And before anyone says it's down to driving style, on the daily drivers I have used, I have never actually had a clutch change in 25 years and have never done less than 60,000 miles in any car I have owned and over 100,000 in two cases.

 

I concur with Alec on this one (and am most grateful for the time he spent on the phone with me a few months back telling me the facts of life re clutches).

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  • 4 weeks later...

Hi Chris,

having found that the rear labarynth seal was doing its job quite nicely I decided not to disturb anything. So, I didn't fit the CM seal.

 

I may remove the engine during the winter and if I do I'll attack the seal then.

 

Roger

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Rodger just check that your Laycock pressure plate fits over the bearing carrier with enough clearance for the fingers to opperate,fitted mine other week and clutch went solid when opperated,box back out and found pressure plate fingers were digging into bearing carrier,checked it out and found i was sold a saloon one which is quite a bit smaller in diameter.

Ps autojumble clutch bloke will be eating it next jumble.

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:wacko::wacko:

 

I noticed that the bearing sticks slightly forward of the carrier body.

When the bearing is pushed forward it would push the diaphragm fingers - the carrier would be well out of the way.

 

Went to Harrogate and back with not problems at all.

 

I think all is OK.

 

Roger

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  • 1 year later...

Sorry to drag this one up again, but in reading it I don't see what is the best to use.

I have the gearbox out at the moment, seemed to have fixed that now, and on to the clutch now, but the clutch plate I ordered from Moss GCP143, is too large for my splines although it is 10 splines, my input shaft is a 1" dia, but I cannot seem to find the plate to fit, I will have to call them.

Now the release bearing, its been fitted with the Toyo one, and has worn the B&B fingers as in the Buckeye article, but was never noisy, so which release bearing is best to use with the B&B cover? It does have the bronze carrier already fitted.

Any thoughts of newer parts/quality would be appreciated.

John

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Hi John,

 

your gearbox is a saloon version, or at least has a saloon input shaft - which amounts to the same thing. 1" as opposed to 1.25" 10-spline.

 

So you need the saloon clutch.

 

As for the bearing, as ever there's more than one way to skin a cat, but I still prefer the OE spec RHP item.

 

Cheers

 

Alec

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Anyone in difficulty finding a suitable friction plate can consider having the friction material renewed, rather than buy a new one.

There may be other concerns that do this, but Questmead http://www.questmead.co.uk/are the experts.

 

John

(No connection other than as a satisfied customer)

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John- their site states that they are a trade-only supplier and do not do retail - how did that work for you?

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RobH,

I rang them, had a chat, went round there because I like to do that with a new supplier, if it's not across the country, had another chat and got it back by post.

I don't think the personal visit had much to do with it - of course my charisma and magnetism might have!

 

I was given their name by a friend in rallying, who uses them for his parts, but did not have to use friends name to get the help of Questmead.

The guy I spoke to was keen to help.

Bush telegraph may have told him that I was looking for that help, but worth a try.

 

John

Edited by john.r.davies
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(I don't think the personal visit had much to do with it - of course my charisma and magnetism might have!)

 

:P :P

 

Thanks John - useful to know that they will listen.

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There are some SAAB clutch covers which will do the job nicely, from 900 series variants, but you do need to be very cautious as there are multiple specifications and interchange lists are not always accurate - as in, just because an assembly physically fits doesn't mean it will handle the power and torque of a TR, or offer a decent pedal.

 

Cheers

 

Alec

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