tr6wilts Posted March 14, 2014 Report Share Posted March 14, 2014 AS I am getting to be an old fart, I keep forgetting to cancel my Indicators, when they dont self cancel.... The bulb in the dash is too dim to see in sunlight (what sunlight you may say), and the tick cant be heard unless stationary with engine off.. Is there any hints tips quick fixes?? Thanks Rich Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted March 14, 2014 Report Share Posted March 14, 2014 (edited) Buy a small 12V pizo beeper (from Maplins, RS etc.) wire across the pilot light, & then hide it under the dash. It will beep at you when you are indicating. I have done this on my old Hillman which has a pilot light, but I can't usualy see it, because it is behind the steering wheel rim !. Also the indicators don't self cancel. Bob. Edited March 14, 2014 by Lebro Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted March 14, 2014 Report Share Posted March 14, 2014 (edited) That works in some cases but I think from memory that the polarity across the bulb on the TR6 setup changes according to which direction you're indicating so a buzzer which is polarity conscious will only work in one direction. You can put a bridge rectifier in front of the buzzer to overcome that. The electronic Durite flasher I have in the TR4A is quite audible so I haven't found the need for a buzzer yet. Edited March 14, 2014 by peejay4A Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RonA Posted March 14, 2014 Report Share Posted March 14, 2014 It might be worth a search, someone used to make and sell a little unit that replaces the warning bulb with a small bleeper and an LED, I think they used to post on this forum RonA Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Geko Posted March 14, 2014 Report Share Posted March 14, 2014 I believe the solution is rather mechanical through playing with the return spring tension Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kevo_6 Posted March 14, 2014 Report Share Posted March 14, 2014 Hi Rich This is the thread that RonA refers to http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/42217-diy-trafficator-mod/?hl=trafficator Hope this helps (as long as your ok with a soldering iron) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Graze Posted March 14, 2014 Report Share Posted March 14, 2014 Insert a LED bulb Plenty bright enough to see in sunlight Cost about 50p from eBay Graze Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted March 14, 2014 Report Share Posted March 14, 2014 LEDs are polarity conscious so I can't see how that will work on a 6. They certainly can be bright though and an annoyance at night I should think. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tr6wilts Posted March 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2014 Thanks all, will go the "Trafficator" route as suggested in the link above, thanks for the link. Thanks for the PM RodBR you have a PM in return. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ShaunC Posted March 14, 2014 Report Share Posted March 14, 2014 I bought one of these:- http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-Pin-Electronic-Flasher-Relay-TRIUMPH-TR3-TR4-TR5-TR6-/200645668046?ssPageName=ADME:X:RTQ:GB:1123 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dave Larnder Posted March 15, 2014 Report Share Posted March 15, 2014 ShaunC That´s O.K. so long as the stalk switch is earthed, if not you will need a 3 pin one from Vehicle Wiring, as I have used on my TR3A., much more positive unlike that stupid original can type. Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ijonsson Posted March 22, 2014 Report Share Posted March 22, 2014 That works in some cases but I think from memory that the polarity across the bulb on the TR6 setup changes according to which direction you're indicating so a buzzer which is polarity conscious will only work in one direction. You can put a bridge rectifier in front of the buzzer to overcome that. The electronic Durite flasher I have in the TR4A is quite audible so I haven't found the need for a buzzer yet. Aha, "change of polarity" that might explain why I only get one of the indicator lights in speedo to work after I exchanged to LED lamps! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
johnny250 Posted March 24, 2014 Report Share Posted March 24, 2014 Aha, "change of polarity" that might explain why I only get one of the indicator lights in speedo to work after I exchanged to LED lamps! .....i did tell you Quote Link to post Share on other sites
acaie Posted March 24, 2014 Report Share Posted March 24, 2014 You can also put a piezo buzzer across the flasher unit. It will beep when the lights are off rather than on, but because it needs so little current the lights stil work as intended. No messing about with diodes. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
V8 Lady Posted March 25, 2014 Report Share Posted March 25, 2014 (edited) Try driving the panzer with most of the electronics not working - makes for improving the memory and learning to judge speed ! Just soo relieved to have my replacement Rover 800 - it's gorgeous ! Edited March 25, 2014 by V8 Lady Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlanT Posted March 25, 2014 Report Share Posted March 25, 2014 I must have posted here many times that electronics is the weak point in vehicle life now. Think about this when fitting a swanky electronic ignition. Basically electronics is a means of cheaply copying a complex machine, you get loads of functions, but not for very long. Its ideal mass-production ****. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John L Posted December 12, 2014 Report Share Posted December 12, 2014 I thought that I could make this up, so I went to Maplins and got the parts, but they queried the Bridge Rectifier, as they said that was usually used for converting AC to DC, so I'm a little confused now, I'm not that ofay with electrics but felt I could follow the excellent video to make this little gadget up. Do I still need this bridge rectifier, the maplin part number is code is AQ98 KBPC1005 RoHS? or have they given the wrong thing? John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted December 12, 2014 Report Share Posted December 12, 2014 Yes, if your TR6 has the warning lamp wired between the two sides, rather than from a dedicated terminal on the flasher unit, then the polarity across the lamp will change, depending on whether you are indicating left, or right. The bridge rectifier sorts this out. Connect the LED lamp / buzzer (or both) +ve to the +ve marking on rectifier, & the -ve to -ve marking. Connect the existing warning lamp wires to to the AC input pins on the rectifier. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted December 12, 2014 Report Share Posted December 12, 2014 (edited) John - the bridge rectifier is actually just four diodes. These act to 'steer' the output to the same polarity irrespective of the polarity of the input - that is how they 'rectify' AC to DC. As Bob says, connect the lamp or buzzer to the respective + and - terminals and the inputs go on the ones with the sideways S symbol. It does not matter which way round you connect the input pair. Rob Edited December 12, 2014 by RobH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John L Posted December 12, 2014 Report Share Posted December 12, 2014 Thanks Rob and Bob, Mine is actually a TR5 with a 2 pin electronic flasher unit, so I supposing its the same as the 6? John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted December 12, 2014 Report Share Posted December 12, 2014 I can't find a TR5 schematic on-line to check John, but if there is only one dashboard tell-tale lamp and a 2-pin flasher unit it must be connected the same as on a 6. Rob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted December 13, 2014 Report Share Posted December 13, 2014 Agree with above. Of course, there is another way of doing it - You can substitute 2 X diodes for the bridge rectifier: 1N4004 would do the job. Connect the annode (unmarked end) of each diode to the original wires supplying the lamp. Connect the cathode (marked ends) of the diodes together, & connect to +ve side of LED / Buzzer Connect -ve side of LED / Buzzer to ground. This does assume you are -ve earth. This is probably how I would do it if I had to - but I have a '3, which has a separate feed for the warning lamp. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Flying_Demon Posted December 13, 2014 Report Share Posted December 13, 2014 I thought that I could make this up, so I went to Maplins and got the parts, but they queried the Bridge Rectifier, as they said that was usually used for converting AC to DC, so I'm a little confused now, I'm not that ofay with electrics but felt I could follow the excellent video to make this little gadget up. Do I still need this bridge rectifier, the maplin part number is code is AQ98 KBPC1005 RoHS? or have they given the wrong thing? John Hi John, I made one of these up just a few weeks ago, sourcing all the parts from Maplin, the parts I used are; N27FN 5MM LED Warm White CR34 DC Piezo Buzzer AQ99 KBPC1004 RoHS Bridge Rectifier. This has worked fine in my '75 TR6. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted December 13, 2014 Report Share Posted December 13, 2014 Just to clarify this a bit, the attached sketch shows the two arrangements (for negative earth). The top circuit is Bob's one using just two diodes. The diodes are the arrow symbols and these only conduct current one-way, in the direction of the arrow. If the LH flasher connection is at +12v then the top diode will conduct current to the lamp and buzzer. The second diode prevents any current being fed back to the right-hand flasher circuit as otherwise all four lamps will operate at once. The same thing happens in reverse if the RH flasher is operated, the bottom diode conducts and the top one blocks current. This circuit arrangement needs a separate earth connection for the LED and buzzer. The lower diagram is for the bridge rectifier. There are now four diodes connected nose-to-tail. If the LH flasher is operated, the top right diode conducts current as just described. Note however that the negative end of the LED and buzzer are connected to the - terminal on the bridge. The bottom left diode will also conduct and allow current to flow from the negative end of the LED to the R connection. This allows the current to flow to earth through the RH indicator lamps but since the LED and buzzer current is so low, these do not light. The same thing happens in reverse when the RH indicator is operated, the bottom right and top left diodes conduct. In each case the two other diodes in the bridge block a direct connection of current to the non-operating flasher lamps. The bridge circuit does not need a separate earth connection. Hope that helps. Rob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted December 14, 2014 Report Share Posted December 14, 2014 Thanks Rob, I did think about doing a diagram, but you beat me to it ! Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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