North London Mike Posted April 3, 2013 Report Share Posted April 3, 2013 Covered all the bases here haven't we, I've also made all the mistakes LNK has 18 ACR alternator conversion, so 45amp, plenty, I can run the flame throwers in the rain and charge my phone Fried it, twice in fact, doh! Now have one of Roger's SS heat shields With a euro tour 2 days away purchased a replacement which was sided (the wrong way) As Mike says, you simply undo the ENORMOUS nut, strip down and turn, reassemble (had to buy a BIG socket and use two extension bars) Ditched the ammeter in favour of a custom voltmeter that 'looks' like a ammeter !! (all reversible, honest, still have the original) Good modern battery is essential through, biggest amp hours/ max crank you can find (but take the stickers off!) Alternator, no brainer for modern use, apologies to the purists Quote Link to post Share on other sites
littlejim Posted April 3, 2013 Report Share Posted April 3, 2013 I fitted the Moss alternator with original thickness belt. (no water pump on mine) The ammeter is wired in same as when the car had a dynamo, despite what the gurus said. if the battery gets near flat the needle disappears for a while, but normally just sits down near the middle on the plus side. heat shield fitted as the alternator sits under the front of the exhaust manifold. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rodbr Posted April 3, 2013 Report Share Posted April 3, 2013 Get one while it's hot!!!! Dynomater http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Stealth-Dynamator-Dynamo-Alternator-conversion-45amp-as-Lucas-C39-C40-/390546105048?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item5aee5ca2d8 I have a LUCAS C40 DYNAMO 35 AMP fitted with regulator and does everything I need and looks the same as original, so why not. rgds Rod Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted April 4, 2013 Report Share Posted April 4, 2013 Hi Anthony/Menno, the oil filler/breather on the rocker changed when the TR4 came out as the bonnet at the front is lower. if you want a heat shield I could knock one up for you. What car (4/4A) what carbs (SU/Strom) Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PaulAnderson Posted April 4, 2013 Report Share Posted April 4, 2013 (edited) You could go for an E310Comp 40 Amp alternator from Bastuck http://www.bastuck.de/shop/index.php?cat=10000&hg=10600 (believed to be a Denso unit) and not need a heat shield due to the location of the diodes well away from the hot exhaust and - a recommendation by TR4Tony which I followed, along with a thin belt conversion with dampened bottom pulley. But, I'd fit a heat shield if fitting an extractor manifold. I suspect the Revington heat shield mentioned is to partner with their own exhaust manifold as from memory it has a lug welded on just for fastening the heat shield to. both alternator fitting and heat shields have been mentioned several times on the forum and a search will find them e.g. http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/25274-heat-shield-for-alternator/ http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/14511-anyone-using-exhaust-manifold-heat-shield-or-wraps/ and one I started myself http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/14225-alternator-heat-shield/ several photographs are included to give you some ideas of what people have 'created'. Paul Edited April 5, 2013 by PaulAnderson Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianc Posted April 5, 2013 Report Share Posted April 5, 2013 On the Works' Rally TR4s, which used the SAH 4-branch exhaust manifold and uprated dynamo, a heat shield was fitted - it's visible in a couple of the photos I have from 1962/3. When 4VC was re-built some 20 years ago, I had the dynamo replaced with a 35 amp alternator (as used on the TR7), and retained the heat shield. When Neil Revington swapped 6VC to alternator, he didn't bother to fit a heat shield - so the alternator got cooked! Realising his mistake, he copied the heat shield from 4VC and fitted it, then made some more for his customers. Although one might not cook the alternator if the cast exhaust manifold is used, is it worth taking the risk? Ian Cornish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Paul Harvey Posted April 6, 2013 Report Share Posted April 6, 2013 The Revington heat shield is easy to fit, using a metal cable tie to the exhaust manifold if it doesn't have a stud. No doubt just as easy to make one if you have the facilities. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted April 6, 2013 Report Share Posted April 6, 2013 ... alas not so easy to fit if you have a Dynalite or equivalent. I gave up on it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Superaquarama Posted April 6, 2013 Report Share Posted April 6, 2013 if you want a heat shield I could knock one up for you. What car (4/4A) what carbs (SU/Strom) Thanks for the kind offer, Roger - well, if it looks like the Revington one as mentioned by Menno http://www.revington...oductID=RTR2067, then please do so. But don't go to any trouble, it looks so simple that even I could manage to make one ! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
anotheralan Posted May 2, 2017 Report Share Posted May 2, 2017 This is quite an old topic now. What is the experience of the Stealth Dynamator so far? I am thinking of fitting one. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rob Salisbury Posted May 2, 2017 Report Share Posted May 2, 2017 Yes, I thought that too!!, especially with a comment or two from beyond the grave (Badfrog, sadly missed), ... the Dynamator has been fit and forget (carefully constructed, and positioned heat-shield made from embossed Ali sheet and a plumbers heat pad), ........ so it's been good, well worth the money. Cheers Rob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted May 2, 2017 Report Share Posted May 2, 2017 Mine failed presumably due to overheating cooking the regulator pack. I wouldn't have another after I dismantled it to find that it was effectively a Denso lookalike squeezed into a Lucas like tube thus blocking most of the cooling vents. YMMV. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
anotheralan Posted May 2, 2017 Report Share Posted May 2, 2017 thanks both Pete I have abandoned the idea of a faux dynamo now and plan to fit an honest alternator and remove the regulator! What did you use to replace the failed Dynamator? any fitting problems? My thin-belt conversion places the belt centreline 37.5mm in front of the mounting. Can this be an issue? Alan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted May 2, 2017 Report Share Posted May 2, 2017 I got a 60A Denso from eBay and used the Bastuck mounting kit. I have a thin belt conversion and it fits fine. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Paul J Posted May 3, 2017 Report Share Posted May 3, 2017 When selecting a alternator from the many available are they rotation direction sensitive, I have seen some marked as anti clockwise rotation but the direction is not always stated. I understand they can be handed left or right but the direction of rotation must be important. Paul Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stillp Posted May 3, 2017 Report Share Posted May 3, 2017 Yes, if it rotates the wrong way it'll suck all the charge out of your battery... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted May 3, 2017 Report Share Posted May 3, 2017 When selecting a alternator from the many available are they rotation direction sensitive, I have seen some marked as anti clockwise rotation but the direction is not always stated. I understand they can be handed left or right but the direction of rotation must be important. Paul If there's a cooling fan incorporated that might affect rotation but electrically I don't think it matters. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Paul J Posted May 3, 2017 Report Share Posted May 3, 2017 Yes, if it rotates the wrong way it'll suck all the charge out of your battery... Some answers are just not worthy of a genuine question.Thanks Pete so the direction indicated only really relates to the cooling fan and the retaining nut as it could possibly undo being driven wth the thread. Paul Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nigel C Posted May 3, 2017 Report Share Posted May 3, 2017 keep the ammeter and wire the alternator output back to the battery side of the solenoid. Ammeter will show discharge only, but it saves having to upgrade wiring/ gauge or replace with voltmeter Cheers Ade PS: Badfrog's idea of gauge under bonnet is a sneaky alternative! this is what I have now. Not sure (from memory) what I had about ten years ago when I was tanking up the A40 out of London at about 10pm and the ammeter blew out of the dashboard and showered me in broken glass! After I had filled my shorts I managed to get across three lanes with no lights etc and rub along the kerb, jumped out to start pushing (towards the Target Island for the inquisitive amongst you) and realised I'd kicked my shoes off for the long haul home! Sore footed I ended up in the central reservation between the two lanes going uphill towards the island and the two lanes heading north. After calling a friend (I'd already gone 50/50 with the gauge and lost!) I bridged the remains of the clock and drove it onto the McDonald's car park and got a beaver tail home....and that's another story! the outcome from this is that the Alternators regulator had AWOL and dumped a huge amount through the gauge, using it as a fuse, hence bang. talking to a few people afterwards they all said I should have fitted an inline fuse to protect the car (and me!) This I have done by buying a "bad-boy largin it up boombox" inline 60amp fuse holder and fuse. cant really see it down near the alternator and fingers crossed..... on the gauge side of things I'm in the throws of designing a drop on face for a volt meter to "look" like a period ammeter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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