pfenlon Posted March 15, 2009 Report Share Posted March 15, 2009 Having bought a new rear perspex window for my Hard top, I am having a very hard time trying to get it to fit. Has anyone any tips, I managed to get 3 corners in yesterday, but the last one seems so out of kilter, I am putting the seal in the top first, and then trying to get the window in, Or do you have to trim the plastic down, it was a Moss item, new 6 months ago, not as good as the original which I sadly drove over! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richardtr3a Posted March 15, 2009 Report Share Posted March 15, 2009 I found that you place the seal in the hard top around all the edges at once, and then use the stiff cord you have placed in the glass recess to lever the rubber over the perspex in the usual way. Mine was a difficult fit until I gave it a bit of rough handling and a bang with my fist. I had 6 elliptical clamps made up to clamp the glass in because I had lost 2 rear windows at speed in the past. Now we can test the engine without any problems and the window stays firm. Good luck, Richard Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted March 15, 2009 Report Share Posted March 15, 2009 Having bought a new rear perspex window for my Hard top, I am having a very hard time trying to get it to fit. Has anyone any tips, I managed to get 3 corners in yesterday, but the last one seems so out of kilter, I am putting the seal in the top first, and then trying to get the window in, Or do you have to trim the plastic down, it was a Moss item, new 6 months ago, not as good as the original which I sadly drove over! Peter they are always a pain to fit and the 3 corners in and one the other side of the workshop is about right I put the last one in with the rubber round the window and then the cord around the out side of the rubber and pulled it in that way.(Though you do need to be careful of the head lining, it should be ok if you have it lipped around the aperture.) Took a lot of strong language, two goes and more than a few heavy slaps to get it in. (its actually easier to put the window in a fibreglass version than a steel one.) Stuart Quote Link to post Share on other sites
pfenlon Posted March 16, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2009 Well, in the end I took out the rubber seal and the plastic window and with silver (gaffer?) tape hung the window in the "hole" In theory when the rubber seal is in place it reduces the "hole" in the hard top by a quarter of an inch all round, for the window to fit in. With this in mind suspending the window in the hole with tape should result in a quarter of an inch between the window and the top, in a perfect world. I ended up cutting 3 of the four corners of the screen BY a quarter of an inch and almost a quarter of an inch off the top of the Plastic window all the way across. Talk about a square peg in a round hole, then time to put in the centre rubber bit to keep it in place to find I had lent out the soddin tool and yep not got it back! I do note that the original window aws NOT flexible, the new ones are very flexible, whether thats a good thing or not I dont know, but I remember some of these windows blow out so ???????????????? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
uvc166 Posted March 16, 2009 Report Share Posted March 16, 2009 Hi Richardtr3a , can you elaborate on the clips you had made , my window has been out three times this winter, I'ts a real pain at times, Cheers Paul. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dan2 Posted March 20, 2009 Report Share Posted March 20, 2009 I found that you place the seal in the hard top around all the edges at once, and then use the stiff cord you have placed in the glass recess to lever the rubber over the perspex in the usual way. Mine was a difficult fit until I gave it a bit of rough handling and a bang with my fist. I had 6 elliptical clamps made up to clamp the glass in because I had lost 2 rear windows at speed in the past. Now we can test the engine without any problems and the window stays firm. Good luck, Richard Richard---any chance you could post some photos of the clamps you fabricated to keep the rear window from blowing out? if not here on the forum to me at my email address: adcronin@ameritech.net Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tthomson Posted March 20, 2009 Report Share Posted March 20, 2009 Hi Peter, I was given some good advice 30 odd years ago on the problems of lending things. "It's better to give than to lend and it costs the same!" Good luck with your window. TT Well, in the end I took out the rubber seal and the plastic window and with silver (gaffer?) tape hung the window in the "hole" In theory when the rubber seal is in place it reduces the "hole" in the hard top by a quarter of an inch all round, for the window to fit in. With this in mind suspending the window in the hole with tape should result in a quarter of an inch between the window and the top, in a perfect world. I ended up cutting 3 of the four corners of the screen BY a quarter of an inch and almost a quarter of an inch off the top of the Plastic window all the way across. Talk about a square peg in a round hole, then time to put in the centre rubber bit to keep it in place to find I had lent out the soddin tool and yep not got it back! I do note that the original window aws NOT flexible, the new ones are very flexible, whether thats a good thing or not I dont know, but I remember some of these windows blow out so ???????????????? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richardtr3a Posted March 20, 2009 Report Share Posted March 20, 2009 My hard top clips are semi circular and the freeway through the arch is the same profile as the rubber moulding.There is a similar clip on the inside and a small recessed nut and bolt holds the two parts tight clamping the rear perspex and holding it tight. We shall be at Malvern and you could see then. I have a problem with my telephone cable to laptop connection. If the new one works I will try later on. Good luck, Richard tr3a Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Devs Posted March 30, 2009 Report Share Posted March 30, 2009 It may not be relevant to this specific topic, however in previous restorations when refitting windows, I've always inserted the windows into the rubber, and then lubricated the rubber with washing up liquid. Then, insert a length of string into the channel all the way round the rubber with about an additional 12" either side to hang onto. Insert window complete with rubber into the aperture and on the last 30%, use the string to force the rubber (from inside the car) onto the lip, whilst a 2nd person applies pressure from the outside on the window. It's worked countless times on other motors, and possibly may work on a TR rear window. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kiwifrog Posted March 30, 2009 Report Share Posted March 30, 2009 (edited) It may not be relevant to this specific topic, however in previous restorations when refitting windows, I've always inserted the windows into the rubber, and then lubricated the rubber with washing up liquid. Then, insert a length of string into the channel all the way round the rubber with about an additional 12" either side to hang onto. Insert window complete with rubber into the aperture and on the last 30%, use the string to force the rubber (from inside the car) onto the lip, whilst a 2nd person applies pressure from the outside on the window. It's worked countless times on other motors, and possibly may work on a TR rear window. Used exactly this method to put the screen in the TR4 this weekend with a friend. Works a treat Cheers Alan Edited March 30, 2009 by Kiwifrog Quote Link to post Share on other sites
pfenlon Posted March 30, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2009 The string in the rubber channel and fairy liquid is the Only way to fit a window. But this only works if the window is the correct size, there is no way mortal man can fit this Moss type of window, as bought it has to be severely trimmed in order to fit it. Perhaphs I bought a bad one? I have since sold the hardtop before it drove me around the bend. There was a thread begun recently where poor quality parts were discussed, without being ungrateful to the people who supply parts for us to keep our chariots wheels a spinning, perhaphs we should have a top 10 parts to avoid league table. If we dont complain no one will improve their product. 1 poor clutch spinner plates 2 Hardtop rear windows 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Menno van Rij Posted March 30, 2009 Report Share Posted March 30, 2009 (edited) 3: water pumps 4: repro sills Menno Edited March 30, 2009 by Menno van Rij Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richardtr3a Posted March 30, 2009 Report Share Posted March 30, 2009 5 Petrol pumps for 4 cylinder cars 6 Control boxes for replacing RB106/2 7 Control boxes for replacing RB106/2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
hpremote Posted March 30, 2009 Report Share Posted March 30, 2009 8. Gear lever boots for sidescreen cars... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted March 30, 2009 Report Share Posted March 30, 2009 9; TR4/5 rear decks 10; TR4/5/6 Forward deck extensions. Stuart Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BrianC Posted March 31, 2009 Report Share Posted March 31, 2009 (edited) There was a thread begun recently where poor quality parts were discussed, without being ungrateful to the people who supplyparts for us to keep our chariots wheels a spinning, perhaphs we should have a top 10 parts to avoid league table. If we dont complain no one will improve their product. Although this is off-topic, it's a good idea, but perhaps does not go far enough. I have long felt that part of the function of the TR Register should be to monitor and report on the availability and quality of parts and services. I know, from my days as Spares News editor, that this is fraught with legal implications, and therefore l believe it is an activity best performed by the owners of the Forum. Perhaps it could be an extension of the SDF? Edited March 31, 2009 by BrianC Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted March 31, 2009 Report Share Posted March 31, 2009 11 TR3a Inner wings 12 TR3a Boot Floors 13 Some (one was good and one was short) TR3a floor panels I suspect I shall have lots more by the time I finish my rebuild. Rgds Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
KEL Posted April 4, 2009 Report Share Posted April 4, 2009 HI GUYS MY TR3 HARD TOP KEEPS POPPING OUT KEL Quote Link to post Share on other sites
greasemonkey Posted April 12, 2009 Report Share Posted April 12, 2009 The string in the rubber channel and fairy liquid is the Only way to fit a window. NO NO NO--- don't use washing up liquid anywhere on the car - it's full of SALT!!! Much better to use KY jelly - they sell it in chemists - not sure what for!!!! and it isn't advertised as being ideal for fitting windscreens and the like - but believe me it is IDEAL. You can always say it's for a friend! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TRSIX Posted April 19, 2009 Report Share Posted April 19, 2009 Having bought a new rear perspex window for my Hard top, I am having a very hard time trying to get it to fit. Has anyone any tips, I managed to get 3 corners in yesterday, but the last one seems so out of kilter, I am putting the seal in the top first, and then trying to get the window in, Or do you have to trim the plastic down, it was a Moss item, new 6 months ago, not as good as the original which I sadly drove over! Hi all, I am new to the board and just purschased a hardtop for my 74 tr6. My is sans a rear window. Does nayone know where I can find one? And does anyone have any instructions on installation. I am at a total loss. I purchased all the hardware, I tink, from Moss, but cant figure anything out. Do simple graphic instructions exist? thanks much, Bob (also,sorry, I don't mean to hijack this posting) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
angelfj Posted April 19, 2009 Report Share Posted April 19, 2009 (edited) The string in the rubber channel and fairy liquid is the Only way to fit a window. fairy liquid??? does this have to be collected at mid-summer's night during a full moon? does one ask the fairy for permission and from which orfice is it collected? Edited April 19, 2009 by angelfj Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TorontoTim Posted April 19, 2009 Report Share Posted April 19, 2009 fairy liquid??? does this have to be collected at mid-summer's night during a full moon? does one ask the fairy for permission and from which orfice is it collected? In case you actually don't know what this is, you'd call it "dish soap". But I like your approach MUCH better. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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