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About angelfj

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    membership no. 42304
  • Birthday 10/23/1947

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  • Location
    Downingtown, Pennsylvania USA
  • Cars Owned:
    British Sports Cars, Astronomy, Woodworking

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  1. Hello again. Came across this advert in eBay. https://www.ebay.com/itm/TRIUMPH-TR3-TR3a-57-62-NEW-CLUTCH-MASTER-CYLINDER-3-4-bore/143069972878?hash=item214fa2898e:g:3l8AAOSwTM5YtGzS Anyone know of this business and can you recommend. The clutch MC looks like the original Girling and not like the new design casting being sold by Moss, Roadster Factory and others. Thanks, Frank
  2. Hello old friends! It's been quite a while but I've been spending more time enjoying my cars, and grandchildren. Because of the sudden and unpredictable nature of this failure I was compelled to report this incident. My '59 TR3A recently had a clutch master cylinder failure. Basically, it came apart internally while my mechanic was delivering the car after annual maintenance. He was forced to shift by speed matching to get it back to his shop. This car has approx. 5K miles since the restoration was completed in June 2012. The MC that failed is an after market unit that I bought in 2011, and it looks just like the originals. However, when we searched a replacement MC , we noticed that the casting was redesigned, with a totally different shape. So, I'll be looking for a NOS or rebuildable master. Now, we are concerned about the brake master cylinder, which is the same design, and will be forced to replace both with the new design. This really bothers me. After a 12 year restoration during which Brian and I were meticulous about originality, its a shame to be forced to use this bastard design. However, a sudden clutch failure, one can usually recover from, but not necessarily the loss of brakes. The worst part of this event was the unpredictable and sudden nature of it. Hey, look, it might be a fluke, but reproduction parts quality has been declining for years. So please allow me to be pessimistic! No one on this side of the pond offers a replacement master cylinder that looks like the original. We did have a possible lead for an authentic part from a company in the UK, MEV Spares, but after inquiry found out that its the same rubbish offered by the other firms. Following are some photos and the words of my mechanic, Brian, as he reported the details. Made it back to the workshop by starting in gear and carefully timing the gearchange for clutch less shifts. Everything underneath looks OK but took the pushrod off and MC piston is stuck deep in the bore. Non-return valve should cause this to hold fluid in the slave and keep the clutch itself disengaged, but obviously that's not the case. Internal pushrod for the non-return valve failed. Popped out of retainer cup (see where retainer metal is torn by my fingertip) and pushrod bent over on itself. Didn't we have problems with these cylinders when the car was going together? smartphone. Oy-vey! New cylinder is quite a bit different from what we got back in '11/'12. Going to remove the old one and get a better look at the condition of the bore. Bore on the old cylinder is in pretty poor condition. I know the clutch is used more frequently than the brake, but I'm wondering what the brake MC looks like and is it destined to bend the link rod like this one did? So, has anyone had or heard of a failure like this one and do you have either a NOS or rebuildable master cylinder for a 1959 TR3A. Cheers, Frank.
  3. Thanks Don. That's what I thought. Can this be repaired in the car? Frank
  4. The horn in my 3A stopped working recently. I checked all of the obvious things. The horns do sound when connected by a jumper wire to the battery. The fuse is OK. All of the earthing points are clean and tight. The wiring to the horns is OK as there is a constant 12V at the horns. I isolated the NB wire coming from the steering column harness and connected my digital multi-meter to it (on the ohm scale) and to earth and then pushed the horn button. The meter reads inf. or open circuit. I have heard of situations where the horn circuit would short out and the horn would sound during a turn or with heavy torque on the wheel. However, I was not aware that they could fail as an open circuit. So it appears that the horn push contacts are not making contact or there is a loose or broken wire in the NB wire circuit. Incidentally, the turn indicators are working correctly. This car has clocked a few thousand miles since a complete restoration in 2012 and has been garaged ever since. The control head was new from TRF when installed. This car has an adjustable steering wheel. In order to further diagnose this problem does the control head have to be removed? Is there anything in particular that I can/should check. Thanks, Frank
  5. Oh yes! I remember now. When I was a young electrical engineer. Over here we used the term, "contact wipe" to describe the distance that a moving contact arm travels after the contacts touch. So, different word, same meaning, I believe. Many thanks, Frank
  6. Hi Menno! So how does the heat affect the auto transmission? Does it fail to shift properly? Cheers, Frank
  7. I'm looking for the resistance of the shunt coils (many turns of fine wire, not the heavy wire). I have ammased a number of these units over the years, and it seems that the there is a significant variation in this value. Cheers, Frank
  8. I was reading the instructions for adjusting the Lucas RB106/2 control box. Specifically, for the CUTOUT relay the following is stated. (see below) Can someone explain the meaning of the term, "follow-through" Cheers, Frank
  9. Or perhaps one of these: http://home.watchprosite.com/show-forumpost/fi-17/pi-6226428/ti-907238/t-horological-meandering-matching-vintage-cars-and-watchesa-visual-attempt/
  10. Update: I have found two firms in the UK who offer alternators designed to look like a dynamo. Both offer a Lucas range. 1. WOSP Performance Products Product called Dynator - £375.00 C39/40 replica http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/1070 Output 50amps This company will also convert your dynamo to an alternator. I have enquired about this service and awaiting a reply. 2. Powerlite - Product called Dynalite - £335.00 C39/40 replica http://www.holden.co.uk/displayproduct.asp?sg=1&pgCode=080&sgName=Electrical&pgName=Dynamos+%26+Starters&agCode=1551&agName=Dynalites&pCode=081.200 Output 40amps
  11. Although this post is related to a recent topic concerning my charging system , see http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/52461-bloody-ignition-light/, I thought I better start a new topic. This is more related to the simple question of a C45 versus a C39 dynamo, and whether or not it would fit into a TR3A. The reason for these questions, there is a guy in the US who can take a Lucas dynamo and convert it to an alternator, using the original case. Unfortunately, his design will not fit into the C39 dynamo. The only dynamo that is compatible is the C45. Now, I realize the physical difference is mainly the diameter of the case, 3.9 vs 4.5 inches, but are there any other features of the C45 design that would prevent it from fitting a TR3A? Thanks, Frank
  12. Hello all, from partly sunny, hot and humid Solomon's Island, Maryland, USA. Here at our 2015 TRA Convention I encountered just as many opinions regarding the charging system. More in a moment. Yesterday, we had a cats and dogs thunder shower late in the afternoon. We were very careful to permit some rain this week in order that your own Mr. John Saunders would feel at home. John doesn't say too much, but once you get him started we find that he is a wealth of knowledge in all things TR. For those not familiar, there are two main TR clubs in the USA, The Triumph Register of America (TRA) catering to the side screen cars + TR4 and The Vintage Triumph Register (VTR) which cover all the TR range + Spit and GT6. TR4's were added to TRA a few years ago, although many of us think they look funny. They are allowed because except for an Italian body shell, underneath they're really a TR3B! Now, back to my 3A. My mate Brian, the young man who restored the Grey Lady came to the rescue after dinner on Tuesday. I had already discovered the cause for the crazy findings reported in the first post. It appears that my dynamo had lost all of it's residual magnetism. During one of the Lucas recommended tests, they have you disconnect the leads from the dynamo, and then measure the voltage from terminal "D" to earth. There should be maybe 1.5 - 3 volts at a high idle. I measured approximately 0.6. This made me very depressed and thoughts about trip cancellation started floating through my brain. However, it just didn't make sense. I thought I should check the field windings for continuity. I measured about 6 ohms from terminal "F" to earth which is about right. I repeated the first test, but first I "flashed" the field. I just took a bit of wire and briefly connected the field terminal of the dynamo and battery positive. The other tests indicated a good dynamo but perhaps a control box that needed adjustment. Those adjustments sorted and I was soon to be headed South! After reflection, I still don't know why the dynamo needed to be flashed, because I stored the car over the winter, just like I always have. Cheers, Frank P.S. - I'll post some photos of this event in a few days.
  13. Hi Jim. I hope things down there are in good stead. I should be so lucky that a new bulb would solve this problem, but I have an open mind. All the best, Frank
  14. Hello Richard! Good to hear from you. Gee, I have no desire to allow things to get that serious. Hopefully those contacts can be sorted! Regards, Frank
  15. Dick, that sounds more serious but the checks suggested here should reveal if that;s the cause. Thanks, Frank
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