RobH

8 - sided surely, Ian ?

Have you hit a pot-hole that has bent a wheel ?

The same question has been asked before: If Ralph's suggestion of pre-twist still leaves them close, you can use plastic spiral wrap to protect the pipe from rubbing

Standard wheels with those tyres should be no problem Brian. Spacers shouldn't be required. There are stops which limit the steering lock (item 98 here) : https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr2-4a/steering-suspension/front-suspension/front-suspension-tr2-4-1953-65.html Are these fitted and adjusted correctly ?

Photo? What wheels / tyres are you using?

If you don't know what oil is in there, it's probably best to drain the lot and start again - it may not be a good idea to mix different oils. There are a LOT of different opinions on what to use, as a forum search will show. If your GB doesn't have a dipstick, you just fill it until it reaches the lip of the hole. Around 2 litres for a box with overdrive. If you are lucky there may already be an access hole for the plug, in the side of the transmission tunnel.

The link works OK for me on laptop Pete but it seems a bit clunky on an Android phone using Opera. I got there though - once I had managed to decline all cookies from Dropbox that login screen disappeared and the files were there.

if a car is said to be a cat B just because parts are not readily available that is clearly a mis-categorisation. It is my understanding that you can engage your own surveyor to do a full survey and challenge it if warranted. The categories should not be allocated merely on grounds of cost. For a classic car the current situation is encouraging one to notify the company for third party claims but not to make a claim of your own in case they do make a mis-categorisation. Is cheaper TPFT insurance still available?

Could be a number of things Tony. If it's only noticeable for the headlights and they are both affected, it could be a bad connection in the wiring to the headlamp, fuse/ fuseholder or relay if there is one. If it's only one light then it could be an earth problem but that is less likely to happen on both at the same time. If everything is dimmer it could be the alternator drive belt slipping - assuming it is a vee-belt drive - or an alternator problem. That would show up in time by difficulty starting as the battery wouldn't charge properly. (or you could suggest he takes the

A load rating of 'only' 87 = 545kg per tyre. Kerb weight of a TR6 is 1130kg and allowing a rather generous 250kg for passengers and luggage, all-up weight could be 1380 kg. Assuming 50/50 weight distribution that is 345kg per tyre so there is plenty of margin to say the least.

As Mick says, an MoT means nothing Phil except on the day it was carried out. Lots of things can go wrong over 12months. You could drive over some glass and cut a tyre as soon as you leave the Mot station...... An insurance company may very well have inspections done after an accident whether or not there is a current MoT.

Might just have been a particle of dirt under the pressure relief valve, which cleared itself when you stopped.

Return spring from the carb linkage ? If there are none missing might it be one that someone dropped and couldn't find ? (can't really get any idea of its size from your photo!)

Just my contrariness maybe but I prefer NOT to see the label and have been known to peel them off . Back in the day when sidescreen cars were new, most batteries didn't have big flashy sticky-labels anyway.

This? https://www.homebase.co.uk/evo-stik-adhesive-cleaner-250ml/12840008.html

Presumably the loose wire under the dash shorted to earth and did this in the regulator. If the current was high enoughto burn out that metal strip, what damage did it do inside the wiring loom? There has been another recent thread about a short circuit and the photos there of melted insulation show what may have also happened on this car. If there is significant insulation damage in the loom of this car too, there is a high likelihood of further fireworks some time in the future.

Cables are easy to replace. Personally I think terminals to the bulkhead is safer as they are then well away from the clamping bar. Remember too that when disconnecting the battery you should take off the earth connection first. Accidentally shorting that one to earth with the spanner is not a problem - and once it has been removed, neither is it a problem on the live terminal.

Perhaps I should have said " modern high torque starter" - I believe they are all based on similar Denso motor systems anyway.

Of course a modern WOSP-type starter doesn't need the long bulge.......

There are at least a dozen Red Kites local to me, and someone nearby feeds them. They can often all be seen circling the area together and wheeling and diving in turn to get down to the food in their garden. The resident Rooks don't like them and will chase individual birds despite being half the size.

I get Blackbirds, lots of assorted Finches, the usual little brown jobs, the odd Magpie and of course Doves and Wood Pigeons. I've even had the odd Heron raiding the pond. Hoopoes would be different but it's more likely to be a ring-necked Parakeet since they reportedly are spreading westwards from London. Only a matter of time. Mammal-wise it's Squirrels, Hedgehogs and sometimes even a Fox.

TRs will always find a way to leak oil......

That is a bolt-on ring gear which needs a ten-tooth pinion on the starter motor. NOT a bomb type with 9 teeth.

The bolts are quite near the edge and should be obvious

A battery will slowly degrade throughout its life, losing capacity as the plates degrade- mainly through sulphation . How much is lost cannot be found just by measuring the voltage, because the cells still charge fully as they should. All that has happened is that the usable area of the plates is less than it was originally, meaning it cannot supply as high a current as it did and not for as long . None of the cheap electronic devices (circa £50 or less) sold as 'car battery testers' are really any use as they can't check this - basically they are just voltmeters which will tell you the sta