BlueTR3A-5EKT

Interesting. That sounds as if the spigot end of the worm gear bearing locator screw was in the wrong place or too long and distorting the angle of the worm driven gear. My first approach would have been to thoroughly clean and re graphite the inner drive cable and the cable outer casing. I also found adding a fibre washer between the worm gear drive connection and the angle drive/speedo cable (inside the attaching nut) moved the whole cable assy away by a small amount so the inner driven wire did not press on anything, it was floating and driven only. Cable routing is important too.

Why not....go fuel injected? https://www.jenvey.co.uk/ Or better still ask the people who built the splendidly finished car you have what they would suggest, if you are seeking more 'umph. Looking at the photos of your car it is finished to a high standard with many trick features, that suggests the builders knew what they were up to.

Good info John. Glad to read you added a balance connection when the TT1200 was fitted. The original cast iron manifold having of course a balance connection/casting hole, internally just before the down pipe flange.

Has the man looked at the MGB Rostyle Wheel repaint/masking kits? A vacuum formed mask with cut outs as required may be a solution. No doubt the originals were masked with a more substantial thing than a bit of plastic. https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/rostyle-wheel-paint-kit.html

Good outcome Richard.

Welcome Duarte. Don't have carpet is a top tip for not getting rusty floors. If left wet in contact with the floors they will cause problems and smell like rotting vegetables as they dry. If the interior gets soaked remove it and dry it properly. Dry the metal floor panel too as far as possible. The other area that gets wet when driving in the rain with aeroscreens is the dash top trim and scuttle heater vents. Yes a tonneau will keep a lot of water off the seats and out of the interior.

There is more reading to be found in David Bees 'Bonanza' thread in our forum's general technical. https://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/71447-bonanza-collection-tr-articles-books-updated-20-march-2022/

Have you found this? http://tr3a.info/WeberDCOEinfo.htm

Spelling done!

Just to add spice…did anyone in UK ever fit twin Mikuni 45s to a TR2-4? The North Americans seem to be getting them to work by fitting to original inlet manifold in place of the twin SU or Stroms. https://www.triumphexp.com/forum/tr4-and-tr4a-forum.7/another-tr4a-mikuni-carb-upgrade.1367107/ I have decided the twin 42 DCOE kit we have will not get used as simplicity of the SU remains paramount. ( they are available for sale) As stated, the DCOE carb give strong performance at higher rpms but as a round town and touring item the economy is not too special.

Is that theoretical maximum flow possible through the radiator from inlet and outlet pipes and flowing through all the cooling tube cores? Is the rate of cooling also a determining factor? In service when fitted the rate of flow will vary with pump speed, which is set by engine speed. i have found this discussion but am not sure it is what you are asking. https://www.physicsforums.com/threads/coolant-air-flow-rate-finding-the-cars-rates.566125/

Plus one for GoodParts. If thinking of obtaining just be sure and have confirmed the manifold you buy is suitable for Right Hand Drive steering cars. It is quite annoying to find some clown put a steering shaft where the exhaust manifold pipe is. Clubbing it with a mallet to relieve the rubbing will probably negate any benefits tge manifold provided. i speak from experience of seeing 50 Janspeed LCB type Sprite exhaust manifolds shipped to the US only to have them returned as ‘do not fit’. Steering is in the way.

You have salt in the dishwasher which may cause corrosion on the ally.

Agreed for TR2-3-4 with the spacer fitted.

Hi Richard. Not daft questions but a sensible start. Is the thing filled to the filler hole in the column with the correct oil? If you only fill through the top cover screwed plug the upper bearing that supports the worm and shaft may be dry. Have you greased/oiled the front suspension trunions and all steering joints? What are the front tyre pressures? How old are the front tyres?

Correct. Clipped vertically, one along either side

Very smart. The only other thing I would consider if the car does not have one is an emergency bonnet release system. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181728713822

No need to dismantle the hydraulics or cables to the brakes. Brakes can stay in place.

I use a Lidl all purpose’s cleaner trigger spray bottle filled with soluble oil(suds) in the workshop. They last for about 3 months then the pump fails. By which time another has been used in the house. And so the cycle restarts. I tried them with brake cleaner and they fail in about 10 days.

That’s the one I have. Garden centre sell similar for about a tenner.

No the flange must be removed from the axle shaft

Buy yourself a gallon of brake cleaner and a pump up aerosol Like a bug or rose spray from the garden centre

Hi Dean and welcome. I guess you are aware of this article. https://macysgarage.com/engine rb.htm and this one http://www.tonydrews.com/uncle_jacks_engine_building_tips.htm

Trusting you are running your car negative earth if you have a regular type of cigarette lighter power socket, or the accessory you plug in will fry. Friend managed to wreck his sat nav in his Dart by doing just that. Found the Amazon one £3.00 cheaper with postage included. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/156012265030?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20201210111451%26meid%3D6d4d3def856e4151a33046d7f8f943cc%26pid%3D101196%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D403045476698%26itm%3D156012265030%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D4429486%26algv%3DSimplAMLv5P

And we struggled to sell new hardtop shells in primers with headlining for £75.00. We also had fully finished in body colour and glazing with fitting kits that sold for £250. Get in your TARDIS and pop back to 1988.