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Can excessive negative camber cause this?

 

Graze

It can but in Rogers case I would have said toe out more likely.

Stuart.

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I've got wear on the inside of a front tyre also but just the near side the off side is fine with equal wear.

I thought if toe out was the cause then both tyres would suffer, am I wrong?

What could make the near side only wear?

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I've got wear on the inside of a front tyre also but just the near side the off side is fine with equal wear.

I thought if toe out was the cause then both tyres would suffer, am I wrong?

What could make the near side only wear?

 

Yes toe out with both sides of the suspension symmetrical will wear both.

I had that 'one side toe' many years ago. I am pretty sure it was wishbone bush(es) that have got tired. A worn lower bush, inner or outer, will allow the upright to move rearwards. So the two sides are no longer symmetrical. Even if the toe-in has been freshly set. I'd expect the steering to pull to the nearside, on a flat road. The top bushes may also be worn.

Peter

Edited by Peter Cobbold
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Also check lower inner mounts for the amount of shims fitted to front and rear.

Stuart.

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Before we all go gloom and doom and buy loads of suspension bits and bobs,

- what kind of tyre wear?

 

From Rogers original question through to Prefects query,

very first thing you need to look at is, if the wear is feathered or not.

 

Place a hand on the crown of the tyre, and move it across towards the centre of the car and than back again.

 

If you feel the tyre smooth going 'in' and rasped coming out then that wheel is 'Toeing in'

 

If the opposite is the case i.e. smooth 'out' and rasped going 'in' then that wheel is 'Toeing out'

 

Simple rule;- Smooth in = Toe-in

Smooth Out = Toe-out

 

What the fearthering shows is that that tyre is being 'dragged' along at a slight angle and is not rolling along the same line as the vehicle.

An alignment problem, of one sort or another.

 

IF there is no feathering, but smooth sloped wear,

then the tyre is rolling along the road in line with the vehicle, and is having a sideways force applied, possibly excessive camber,

but your first check is for 'Feathering'

 

This pre-suposes that the tyres have not been moved around the vehicle.

 

John

Edited by john
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Hi Graze,

I checked the camber last year and it was spot on (ish).

 

Roger

 

and that was before or after you tore the lower fulcrum bracket ?

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The IRS cars have the disadvantage that the two rear wheels may not be pointing in the same direction, and any misalignments at the rear will have some effect(s) on the front end.

Ian Cornish

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Thanks to all for the advice I am away from the rock for a week or two on my return I will try all advice.

The tyre in question (NS front) is US now so must solve the mystery before replacing it.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Hello All.

I finally got my wheel allignement checked on a posh machine and it confirmed my camber angle is different LH to RH.

 

These are the results:

Left Front -1deg 59 mins Camber -0 deg 28 mins toein

Right Front +0 deg 11 mins Camber -0 deg 27 mins toein

 

No wonder inside of the Left Front tyre was worn!

 

Left Rear -1 deg 54 mins Camber 0 deg 01 mins toe out

Right Rear -2 deg 03 mins Camber - 0 deg 16 mins toein

The rear looks acceptable to me :unsure: .

 

Plan to check the lower wishbone shims this weekend see if I can move some LHS to RHS.

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Hello All.

I finally got my wheel allignement checked on a posh machine and it confirmed my camber angle is different LH to RH.

 

These are the results:

Left Front -1deg 59 mins Camber -0 deg 28 mins toein

Right Front +0 deg 11 mins Camber -0 deg 27 mins toein

 

No wonder inside of the Left Front tyre was worn!

 

Left Rear -1 deg 54 mins Camber 0 deg 01 mins toe out

Right Rear -2 deg 03 mins Camber - 0 deg 16 mins toein

The rear looks acceptable to me :unsure: .

 

Plan to check the lower wishbone shims this weekend see if I can move some LHS to RHS.

I would take a long hard look at the chassis before you change anything

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