graeme Posted January 28, 2012 Report Share Posted January 28, 2012 (edited) Roger, A few years back, I had just come out of a pub, on the first day of our holiday, got in the TR, shut the door and the window exploded showering me and the inside of the car with all those little shards of glass. I don't think you were really trying with the hammer. We continued on our camping holiday getting wet every time it rained. The end of our holiday coincided with the wettest weekend, when we should all have been at Malvern, 2007, anybody remember? We drove back from Gloucestershire to Teesside with no side window! When I rewired my car, I used a Rover 800 fuse/relay box with every circuit fused and all important stuff through a relay, very neat and practical, but not original. Cheers Edited January 28, 2012 by graeme Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ondrousek Posted January 29, 2012 Report Share Posted January 29, 2012 (edited) nn Edited January 29, 2012 by Ondrousek Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted January 29, 2012 Report Share Posted January 29, 2012 Roger, you're infuriating (in a nice way). Just when I settle on a plan for doing something on mine you come up with a better idea! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted January 29, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2012 Hi Pete(s), my wife says I'm infurating as well but not always in a nice way. I came down with the lurgy yesterday and have been banned from the garage today as it is quite cold. I'll try and get some photo's tomorrow My fuse box is fairly straight forward in that it has three sections 1. powered by the ignition switch as per the original 2, powered by the lights (red/green wire) as per original 3. powered by a constant live from the starter solenoid. This gives enough protection for a small village I've also stuck in 5 relays for thngs like the headlights, leccy rad fan, horn. I shall try and get the indicator unit on there as well. Hopefuly this will reduce some of the under-dash currents. I've already had the fuse bits insitu for quite sometime but it looks a right mess Pics tomorrow. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted January 29, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2012 (edited) Hi Pete(s), see attached pics. Edited January 29, 2012 by RogerH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted January 29, 2012 Report Share Posted January 29, 2012 Nice job. Will you come round and bend up my brake and clutch pipes when the time comes? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chris Hubball Posted January 29, 2012 Report Share Posted January 29, 2012 Hi Roger Your heater control valve looks different any chance of some details and a picture. Cheers Chris Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted January 29, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2012 Hi Chris, it is a 15mm service valve from a home plumbing system. The problem was connecting the valve with a small BSP elbow. The reason for doing it was my frustration in not being able to turn the heater fully off or fully on. My one is a one finger job to shut and finger and thumb to open. I believe Revington now do something similar. My next mod to it is to position the valve vertically so as to tidy up the area around the top steer UJ Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
pfenlon Posted January 29, 2012 Report Share Posted January 29, 2012 Thanks for the pics Roger, but now we know there should be many more. This will help other peoples rebuilds including mine, so more info on the Plumbers valve, did you use a special loom or use the original one Modified? whats the cover for on the master cylinders for? You have started something now. I havent the ability to make a photo album like Tony in Aus, but if you can, it would be appreciated my many I would think. The weathers shite anyway, listen to your good lady and do a website instead of catching cold! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mike3md Posted January 30, 2012 Report Share Posted January 30, 2012 There is a better in line valve available from Holden, it allows some degree of proportional control of the flow unlike plumber's bits. I posted the details recently, but as we are currently somewhere warmer than UK I can't work all the forum options, so look for a recent post. Mike Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jersey Royal Posted January 30, 2012 Report Share Posted January 30, 2012 (edited) http://www.revington...ID=RTR1486%2D2K There is a better in line valve available from Holden, it allows some degree of proportional control of the flow unlike plumber's bits. I posted the details recently, but as we are currently somewhere warmer than UK I can't work all the forum options, so look for a recent post. Mike http://www.holden.co...s&pCode=080.530 I have one similar to the above works great,which i got from Revington, more control. The Revington one is more expensive as it comes as a complete kit, with pipework, and an adaptor that screws into the head, with instructions http://www.revington...ID=RTR1486%2D2K But dare say you could make up these bits. Cheers GUY Edited January 30, 2012 by Jersey Royal Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted January 30, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2012 (edited) Hi Pete, the loom is standard with bits added over time. I'm now trying to get everything together so it works and looks neat. The stainless lid is simply to make the pedals look tidy. I always thought it odd that the pedal tops poked out of the bulkhead with nothinhg to stop the elements getting in (if it can/does) I have a photobucket account somewhere but it is tediously slow to put stuff on. I will get round to it one day. Hi Guy/Mike, my heater valve was knocked up before I knew of the others offerings. The Revington one looks OK but at £75 I can make 8 of mine. I don;t think fine adjustment is the biggest asset of the valve. Being able to operate it without taking steroids is a big bonus. My MK2 version will be sligtly improved, giving more space in the engine bay. As the original couldn't be turned fully off or on from within the car I was always bathed in a very warm fug unless I got out of the car, lifted bonnet, and attacked the valve to shut it. With the new valve I just have to tickle the knob and a warmth runs over my feet. Fully out gives a good flow for cold nights. Roger Edited January 30, 2012 by RogerH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted April 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2012 (edited) Hi Folks, I'm back! things have gone very slowly since last summer. I've dabbled with a few silly things on the 4A but the 4 seemed to get left behind. However I've started to get things going again. Today I installed the wiper motor. This went in easy enough, thankfully. Yesterday I fitted the seal on the plenum vent lid. Today I fitted the lid. The lever for the vent was missing so I decided I will make my own - easy peasy (dream on) It all seemed so easy in theory - a simple bell crank pushing the operating rod and the lid opens. Sadly the car had other plans. The force required to overcome the lid spring is quite high and the bell crank dimension need to be worked out to give the best leverage/force. Anyway a bell crank was knocked up and then changed, then modified, a few more changes and it all fitted and nearly opened the lid. A little bit of fettling made it function better. One last look around the area of battle showed that there is a bracket type thing - looking as though it aught to have a lever in it - B*ll*cks. Tomorrow we conduct some more modifying. The other day, in order to generate some sort of enthusiasm, I fitted the botton regulator channels to the door glass. These went in easily. The channel was stuck very firmly to the old glass. I was using a 5lb club hammer and really whacking the channel, the glass withstood it all. Tomorrow the glass will go into the doors. The fuse box mentioned above was being fitted to the 4A. This was truely an instance of briliance. The base plate was made and painted The perspex lid was formed and fitted to the base. The base and lid was temporarily fitted into the area required then taken out for wiring. The base was wired and screwed down. Then try and fit the lid. The lid didn't bloody well fit****arrrrgghhh. With the fuses and relays fitted all the space to get the lid over the base was gone and alas the lid wouldn't fit. Back to the drawing board. I have lots of junk in my garage. Roger Edited April 16, 2012 by RogerH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Paul Harvey Posted April 16, 2012 Report Share Posted April 16, 2012 Welcome back - your stories are truly an inspiration to us cheque book restorers. I shall forward your dire experiences to my 'man.' Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted April 16, 2012 Report Share Posted April 16, 2012 Who is? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted April 17, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 17, 2012 (edited) ...oh what fun, what deep joy. How can a simple vent lid be so difficult. Yesterdays bell crank didn't have quite the right ring to it so, I had a think, then I thought some more - nothing. Absolutely nothing was happening. My thinking was static. So I stopped thinking and had a look. I could see a subtle problem in the alignmnet of the lid push rod. The problem I have is that I have no vent lid handle; so I am having to make a handle to fit the push rod. However I think the push rod is duff. It came with a bend in it - apparently in the wrong place. So, I've re-shaped the push rod to move easily in and out of the bulkhead hole and then knocked up another bell crank to fit the new push rod location. This was going well, and then the heavens opened. So it all came to a standstill. The spring that holds the lid open/closed is quitre strong and the dash board has not got any support brackets in place yet so everything sort of moves when operating the lid. Tomorrow should see the end of the lid - I hope Roger Edited April 18, 2012 by RogerH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mike3739 Posted April 17, 2012 Report Share Posted April 17, 2012 "Put a lid on it Roger" springs to mind!! Sorry Roger could'nt resist it Cheers Mike PS Are you fitting HID's? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted April 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2012 Hi Mike, HID's - you heratic. I shall be fitting some of Joe's most atmospheric yellow glimmers. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted April 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2012 Today I pushed the car out of the garage. Got my tools out whereuppon it started to rain in biblical proportions. Put tools away and push car back into garage. Did I get wet, of course I got bl**dy wet. So I decided to pop off to Moss and buy some bits. The A312 was bunged from one end to the other. When I left I decided to take the A316/M3/M25. All was well until M4 Junc 15 and chaos ensued. M25 stationary, M25/ M4 West slip road stationary. And the overhead signs saying that the M40 was also at a standstill. Anyway, one good thing, Moss now have in stock the fancy little washer/clip that fits over the stud on the window regulator and they look good - at last a re-made item that works. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted April 19, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2012 The weather forecast was for showers. Showers I like but not intermitent biblical downpours. Yesterday it rain as did the day before. Now, don;t get me wrong we need water. Things were getting a tad dry and these recent vertical floods will have little affect unless it rains all year. But - I have a car to finish off. Has mother nature got a heart. Anyway I got the car out of the garage. It then went back in, then out, then in - it was like an auto-Okekoke. The vent flap got looked at then ignored - b*st*rd thing. I fitted the anti burst latches on both doors. These gave little resistance obviously they don;t talk to the vent flap. Whilst the sky was melting I decided to have a fiddle with some bits. I took the speedo out of its box - lo and behold the dopmed glass was split in two.As was the tacho glass. Something heavy must have been on top of it. Tomorrow we shall have a look at fitting the steering gear. That'll be fun Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
pfenlon Posted April 19, 2012 Report Share Posted April 19, 2012 Roger, I sympathise, but this IS a bad day at the office, especially after painting. The inner wings somehow had been spread, perhaps in transit to or from the paint strippers, or even at the paint stripper I do not know, to correct the situation the chassis and shell were confined between the garage walls the front panel removed. Then it was a simple matter to reposition the inner wings. But being cheesed off isnt the right description, I almost found religion, like yourself I am giving the bodywork the cold shoulder and doing dashboards and electrickery, that should teach it a lesson. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted April 19, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2012 yer - we'll show 'em. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted April 19, 2012 Report Share Posted April 19, 2012 I just hope that you two have exhausted the world's supply of TR4 aggro before I get around to reassembling mine. I doubt it though somehow. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alec Pringle Posted April 19, 2012 Report Share Posted April 19, 2012 Hi Pete, you cannot be serious. The supply of TR aggro is infinite, and inexhaustible. The legacy of Stan Part and Joe Lucas . . . . . Cheers, Alec Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Paul Harvey Posted April 19, 2012 Report Share Posted April 19, 2012 The legacy of Stan Part and Joe Lucas . . . . . Bollocks - they knew exactly what they were doing. We're the prats who think we can make them last forever. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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