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mike3md

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About mike3md

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    Hertfordshire, UK

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  1. https://www.spautopia.co.uk/rubber-dub-tyre-and-rubber-dressing Cherry Blossom is a lot cheaper
  2. If you have exhaust gases in the cooling water, it may be the sign of a cracked head (ask me how I know ). Get the head pressure tested before any other work. If cracked, they can sometimes be repaired. To remove the head, if it sticks use wooden wedges, not steel! Mike PS You might try a bottle of K Seal before pulling the head. It sometimes cures the problem. M.
  3. Surely spring length affect on ground clearance can only be assessed when the springs are under load - not the free length? Just saying.... Mike
  4. Similar to Stuart's, except I used a proprietary fitting from car builder solutions and rather than fix to the alloy frame I folded the metal support to fit between the rear glass seal and the backlight trim. Personally I don't think having one at number plate level qualifies as high level, especially on a TR, plus many of today's drivers are conditioned to reacting to that 3rd light.. Mike
  5. Possibly a damaged shaft which has been machined and reused with the collar. Something our friends over the pond might do? Mike
  6. Hi Chris, Presumably the 2000 saloon 'box is therefore no longer useable? I suppose it would not be too tricky to make one. Mike
  7. Yes, the spring is "upside down" as per WSM. Thanks for mentioning. Mike
  8. Thanks everybody. I think I will stick to a standard bolt, but replace the worn one. Yes, I do have the plunger and spring, and plenty of grease. The large tapered spring under the cap (Item 11 on the Moss page )seems OK, but in any case new ones are nca. The propshaft is fairly new (30,000 miles), but I will get it checked and report back. Mike
  9. The long bolt passing through the gear lever cap (3.5"× 1/4 unf), part BH604281 in the Moss book, is worn along its length, and may be contributing to gear lever rattle/vibration. I think the standard replacement bolt is not especially hard, and will wear fairly quickly. Has anybody else had this issue, and maybe sourced a higher grade bolt? Thanks Mike
  10. TR Trader also does similar conversion brackets: http://www.trtrader.com/parts-lists/MX5-seat-brackets.htm Mike
  11. Jim, I replaced my screwed in studs with pressed in ones on my 4 when changing from wires to Minilites. There is no need to drill out the holes, they can be pulled through using a decent spare wheel nut, a few washers and a drop of oil. Bin the nut after you have finished. Mike
  12. I fitted a set of 1144 pads (NOT NOS!) which were bedded in as above. They were great, but annoyingly squealed at low speed in town. The shims were a bit corroded, so I bought and fitted a set of OE style anti squeal shims in stainless from TRE, together with a good smear of brake grease (Ceratec), and no problems since. Mike
  13. Loads of space behind the tank board, room for pump incl pulley, petrol pump, hoses, drop link, wheel bearings etc etc, just remember to write down what you have stashed away and where! Mike
  14. Tim, If you have a satnav (gps), it will give you accurate road speeds, and from that you should be able to calculate engine rpm, knowing the diff ratio and tyre sizes. It used be a look up on the mintylamb site, but that has dissappeared. I did keep a hard copy of the results based on 3.7 diff and 185x70 tyres, which gives 3000rpm in direct 4th as 60.8mph. Otherwise this may help: https://wahiduddin.net/calc/calc_speed_rpm.htm Mike
  15. Alan, I fitted these a while back (you know, when it used to rain all the time in the UK), and they have been excellent. https://www.revingtontr.com/product/rtr8521-38/name/wiper-blade-insert-piaa-380mm-15-long Mike
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