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mike3md

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About mike3md

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    Hertfordshire, UK

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  1. Mike, Yes, for advance purchase (from website http://mgandtriumphsparesday.co.uk/ ) Advance Price: £11 incl booking fee. Under 12's free of charge Advance tickets go off sale at 9pm Saturday 8th February 2020 (You can purchase tickets after this date on the gate) On The Day Prices: Adults £14. Under 12's free of charge
  2. Roger, If you have a local exhaust specialist (not the Kwikfit type, but one that does custom systems), they can probably find you a piece of stainless made to fit, slash cut and polished up to your liking. Mike
  3. At the risk of stirring up a hornets nest, they must have driven the TR like Miss Daisy. 43mpg! Mike
  4. Or maybe this, used sparingly: https://trade.evo-stik.co.uk/product/sticks-sht-turbo Mike
  5. John/Andy, The "click" fastener looks to be slightly too wide (32mm diameter) to fit into the "cup" in the backlight - did you grind them down for a snug fit, or do they drop out when removing the fabric top? Thanks Mike
  6. I have been using the PIAA blades for a few years now on the 4, they are excellent. Less useful has been the Smartscreen variable intermittent wipe which had a mind of its own, and now removed after even the manufacturer couldn't solve the problem. Mike
  7. I may be missing something (it has been said before!), but why not mark the new pulley in the same place as the old one, using the keyway as datum? Mike
  8. Dave, Graeme who posts here relocated to Vancouver Island a few years ago with his TR4A, I am sure he will have some useful tips. Try a PM. Mike
  9. Hi Alf, As I made my own new casings I copied the original diameter, so it fitted fine. If you decide to go ahead with the Clayton unit, I would suggest cutting the foam ring to half depth, it should seal fine, and should cope with the slight stretching to fit the lip on the Clayton. The hole in the plenum is radiused. Personally I would persevere with the Clayton. The larger heat exchanger is part of the benefit. You are right, the side tube are for the TR5&6, and should be blanked off. Incidentally I browsed the Clayton stand at the NEC yesterday, and they examples of the fan and the matrix on show, they may sell as separate parts. Good luck. Mike
  10. Kevin, I made up my own upgrade based on centrifugal fan motor used in the the Revington/Clayton heater for the 4-6. The heater upgrade motor has 3 speeds, but given its power you will only need 1 and 3 (in fact, I hardly use 3 except in the direst damp conditions). Peter - TR Enterprises used to list a heated from screen for the 4-6, but I can't find it now. Mike
  11. Alf, I fabricated my own casings for a heater upgrade based on the Clayton components, and from memory didn't have any issues with the missing step on the flanges. The step only brings the fixing points closer to the bottom of the plenum, and if you get the original side by side with the Clayton version, I think you will find that they are about the same. The Spal centrigugal fan used by Clayton (assuming it is still the same) is a tight squeeze in the box, and needs the extra depth compared with the Smiths axial fan. By the way, be careful undoing the 3 plenum mounting bolts, they can seize. Also don't forget the other casing steady fixing to the firewall. This job is easier with the gearbox out, or at least the tunnel off. The better fan gives a very powerful blast at all speeds (as per Dyson handryer!). Good luck. Mike
  12. Hi Lee, Did you get an answer to your clutch question? Loads of posts on TR7/8 about clutches, I assume someone has the info. Mike
  13. Harry, I understand your dilemma, but I think your tester, on the basis of what he has said, should also fail any car where tungsten filament lamps (commonly called "bulbs") have been replaced with halogen lamps, unless the reflector etc has been changed to suit. That can't be right, and as Roger says the LED lamps replicate the original filament lamps, as do the halogen type. Fit and enjoy those dark nights! Mike
  14. I have put something similar via an oil pressure switch on my 4 for oil pressure warning. It includes a very loud buzzer to get my attention when the roof is down and I am not checking the pressure gauge, and follows an incident a few years ago where I lost all pressure when the pump drive sheared at 60mph+ - by the time I noticed the gauge it was too late! It goes live with the ignition, but to avoid frightening the neighbourhood incorporates a 10 second delay on start up (only). May be able to find the details if anybody is interested. Mike
  15. As Stuart says, why not make one up out of a metal coat hanger, or heavy gauge garden/fencing wire (sometimes plastic coated). Just copy the one in the other door! Mike
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