GeoffreyS Posted January 8 Report Share Posted January 8 I am considering upgrading from a TR6 to a TR5. The TR5 I have seen has a broken heater matrix. I realise this is a pricey and complicated part to replace, but I would like to know if the broken heater matrix would have any implications on the engine block. If any members have any knowledge of this I would be most grateful for your thoughts Thank you. Geoffrey Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted January 8 Report Share Posted January 8 (edited) What do you mean by 'broken" Geoff? Does it leak or is it just blocked and so inoperative ? Edited January 8 by RobH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Malbaby Posted January 8 Report Share Posted January 8 Is a TR5 an upgrade from a TR6? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted January 8 Report Share Posted January 8 It is Italian compared to German But an upgrade never not no how. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DRD Posted January 8 Report Share Posted January 8 1 hour ago, Malbaby said: Is a TR5 an upgrade from a TR6? Only in the market value! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mike C Posted January 8 Report Share Posted January 8 (edited) My heater matrix started leaking , and as you say, its a horrible job to replace it. For a few years I ran the car with the heater supply and return lines connected. To do this I disconnected the heater lines at the firewall escutcheon connector then joined them with a 1/2 inch copper U bend and heater hoses. It made no difference to the engine cooling- I guess it's the same as running the engine with the heater on anyway. I finally replaced the core in 2022 because I was starting to use the car more in cold weather. And it was a horrible job. Edited January 8 by Mike C Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John Morrison Posted January 9 Report Share Posted January 9 Hi Geoffrey, back to you original question. No, the heater matrix should have no implications for the engine. It is a difficult job fiddly rather than technical, and you certainly want at least £500 off the price of the car. If you go ahead and buy the car, and then are doing the swop yourself, then I would consider one of the more modern , non original, (Well out of site once fitted) but less expensive and more efficient units such as this one from car builder solutions;- 5.2KW CAR HEATER KIT 278MM Others on here have fitted items such as this, and I'm sure will be along to advise. John. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
GeoffreyS Posted January 9 Author Report Share Posted January 9 11 hours ago, Malbaby said: Is a TR5 an upgrade from a TR6? I think it is. A great combination of beautiful body with 150bhp engine. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
GeoffreyS Posted January 9 Author Report Share Posted January 9 1 hour ago, John Morrison said: Hi Geoffrey, back to you original question. No, the heater matrix should have no implications for the engine. It is a difficult job fiddly rather than technical, and you certainly want at least £500 off the price of the car. If you go ahead and buy the car, and then are doing the swop yourself, then I would consider one of the more modern , non original, (Well out of site once fitted) but less expensive and more efficient units such as this one from car builder solutions;- 5.2KW CAR HEATER KIT 278MM Others on here have fitted items such as this, and I'm sure will be along to advise. John. Hello John, Thanks very much. What I am worried about is (the car has not been used for a couple of years) is if the coolant fluid was left in the car while not used and now corroded the heater matrix, it may also have corroded the engine and radiator. Thanks, Geoffrey Quote Link to post Share on other sites
GeoffreyS Posted January 9 Author Report Share Posted January 9 8 hours ago, Mike C said: My heater matrix started leaking , and as you say, its a horrible job to replace it. For a few years I ran the car with the heater supply and return lines connected. To do this I disconnected the heater lines at the firewall escutcheon connector then joined them with a 1/2 inch copper U bend and heater hoses. It made no difference to the engine cooling- I guess it's the same as running the engine with the heater on anyway. I finally replaced the core in 2022 because I was starting to use the car more in cold weather. And it was a horrible job. Thank you. I am concerned that the coolant fluid may have corroded the matrix (the car was not used for a couple of years) and may also have corroded the engine and radiator. Leap of faith! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John Morrison Posted January 9 Report Share Posted January 9 Geoffrey understand your thinking and difficult to be definitive. You could test the antifreeze content of the fluid in the system if there is antifreeze then corrosion is less likely If there is just water then you might look further and a starting point would be the radiator How far you wish to go is up to you and the seller, think for me if there is antifreeze in the system and it’s the car you want then I’d buy it. Are you in the Register and do you attend your local group This is a classic case where that could be a great help for you, take a local who knows our cars- second pair of eyes etc. John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JohnC Posted January 9 Report Share Posted January 9 TBH the engine (and heater) are hardly an issue compared to the body and chassis. If the body and chassis are good then maybe have a haggle for the fun of it. After all, how many hours will it take you to replace the heater? And how much to have the engine fully reconditioned? With the price of TR5s it's getting close to a drop in the ocean. A body resto though, that's a different story. My 2¢ worth. And I can't afford a TR5 so I'm just jealous Cheers, JC Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mike C Posted January 9 Report Share Posted January 9 1 hour ago, GeoffreyS said: Thank you. I am concerned that the coolant fluid may have corroded the matrix (the car was not used for a couple of years) and may also have corroded the engine and radiator. Leap of faith! If the coolant wasn't changed and the car sat idle for a few years there are probably pockets of corrosion in the radiator and heater core. Maybe in the cast iron block but this is far more robust when it comes to resisting corrosion than the heater and radiator- except for the engine welch plugs. Pressure testing will find most leaks that are worth worrying about. A poorly maintained TR5 is a rare find indeed, I assume the price will reflect its condition. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
elclem1 Posted January 9 Report Share Posted January 9 Not something i would give thought to as i have changed a few in my time, tricky but doable. as suggested its the rest of the car you might need to be more concerned about. I find that the original matrix properly cleaned gives more than enough heat for my wife when we drive through the alps and snowy Pyrenees, and that's saying something! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
GeoffreyS Posted January 10 Author Report Share Posted January 10 On 1/8/2024 at 11:43 PM, Mike C said: My heater matrix started leaking , and as you say, its a horrible job to replace it. For a few years I ran the car with the heater supply and return lines connected. To do this I disconnected the heater lines at the firewall escutcheon connector then joined them with a 1/2 inch copper U bend and heater hoses. It made no difference to the engine cooling- I guess it's the same as running the engine with the heater on anyway. I finally replaced the core in 2022 because I was starting to use the car more in cold weather. And it was a horrible job. Thank you. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
GeoffreyS Posted January 10 Author Report Share Posted January 10 21 hours ago, John Morrison said: Geoffrey understand your thinking and difficult to be definitive. You could test the antifreeze content of the fluid in the system if there is antifreeze then corrosion is less likely If there is just water then you might look further and a starting point would be the radiator How far you wish to go is up to you and the seller, think for me if there is antifreeze in the system and it’s the car you want then I’d buy it. Are you in the Register and do you attend your local group This is a classic case where that could be a great help for you, take a local who knows our cars- second pair of eyes etc. John Hello John, Thank you. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
GeoffreyS Posted January 10 Author Report Share Posted January 10 20 hours ago, Mike C said: If the coolant wasn't changed and the car sat idle for a few years there are probably pockets of corrosion in the radiator and heater core. Maybe in the cast iron block but this is far more robust when it comes to resisting corrosion than the heater and radiator- except for the engine welch plugs. Pressure testing will find most leaks that are worth worrying about. A poorly maintained TR5 is a rare find indeed, I assume the price will reflect its condition. 21 hours ago, JohnC said: TBH the engine (and heater) are hardly an issue compared to the body and chassis. If the body and chassis are good then maybe have a haggle for the fun of it. After all, how many hours will it take you to replace the heater? And how much to have the engine fully reconditioned? With the price of TR5s it's getting close to a drop in the ocean. A body resto though, that's a different story. My 2¢ worth. And I can't afford a TR5 so I'm just jealous Cheers, JC 21 hours ago, JohnC said: TBH the engine (and heater) are hardly an issue compared to the body and chassis. If the body and chassis are good then maybe have a haggle for the fun of it. After all, how many hours will it take you to replace the heater? And how much to have the engine fully reconditioned? With the price of TR5s it's getting close to a drop in the ocean. A body resto though, that's a different story. My 2¢ worth. And I can't afford a TR5 so I'm just jealous Cheers, JC Thank you. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR Paul Posted January 12 Report Share Posted January 12 Hi Geoffrey, if the matrix is leaking it might be worth trying some K-seal (a modern improvement on the Radweld concept); it worked on my TR6. This will cost £10-£12, and take around 30mins, rather than the expense & hassle of changing the matrix: if it doesn't work, then start thinking about changing the matrix? Cheers, Paul. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PodOne Posted January 12 Report Share Posted January 12 3 hours ago, TR Paul said: Hi Geoffrey, if the matrix is leaking it might be worth trying some K-seal (a modern improvement on the Radweld concept); it worked on my TR6. This will cost £10-£12, and take around 30mins, rather than the expense & hassle of changing the matrix: if it doesn't work, then start thinking about changing the matrix? Cheers, Paul. Just my opinion but if its leaking, its leaking and a waste of time your at best kicking the can down the track. Best bite the bullet and sort it properly. Gooey fixes are fine for when you are miles away from home and you have no parts. Just my thoughts! Andy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
astontr6 Posted January 16 Report Share Posted January 16 On 1/9/2024 at 8:28 AM, GeoffreyS said: I think it is. A great combination of beautiful body with 150bhp engine. TR's never had a 150BHP engine unless the car was supplied by SAH and paid the extra for the up grade. Bruce. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted January 16 Report Share Posted January 16 (edited) Hi Bruce, it says here that the CP series did have 150BHP @5500rpm So were they uprated by SAH? https://www.tr-register.co.uk/tr-buyers-guides/triumph-tr6 Roger Edited January 16 by RogerH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DRD Posted January 16 Report Share Posted January 16 3 hours ago, RogerH said: Hi Bruce, it says here that the CP series did have 150BHP @5500rpm So were they uprated by SAH? https://www.tr-register.co.uk/tr-buyers-guides/triumph-tr6 Roger Roger - I think it was more like 140HP using the DIN rating. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
GeoffreyS Posted January 28 Author Report Share Posted January 28 On 1/12/2024 at 6:08 PM, PodOne said: Just my opinion but if its leaking, its leaking and a waste of time your at best kicking the can down the track. Best bite the bullet and sort it properly. Gooey fixes are fine for when you are miles away from home and you have no parts. Just my thoughts! Andy Thank you, Andy. Good advice. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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